fuel

I'm in the process of modifying my 4G37. It's in my FWD Galant. I've already had the head recon'd, but I'm going to freshen up the bottom end. Will bore it out 20 thou over and get new pistons so will go from 1755cc up to 1777cc. Then I'm going to remove the balance shafts and use 4G32 oil pump and cover (as 4G32s dont have balance shafts). I might do some more work on the head while it's off, like oversized valves and port matching. The port sizes on the 4G37/4G32 are plenty big enough. I've already put roller rockers on and it seems to have helped in the higher rpm range. I've got an oversized throttle body (60mm) and ECI-Multi point injection to go on. The 4G32/4G37 aren't that powerful when stock. They are designed to be an economy engine with low down torque in mind. The factory cam isn't setup for higher revs (ie power dies down after 5000rpm). The engine should respond to small mods above. I noticed a power increase when I went from 9.5:1 CR to 10.5:1, and this is on a tired engine with 400,000kms on the clock.

The 4G37 only comes out in FWD anyway. It still shares the same block as the 4G32, and has the same RWD mount mouldings and tappings on the side of the block. You will have to use the 4G32 water pump and metal pipes, and remove the cam belt side engine mount and power steer pump bracket. Then use a 4G32 timing belt cover.

Your VR-4 4G63 will be a 6 bolt engine. Only the Evo 1-3 4G63 blocks are 7 bolt. These blocks don't have mouldings for the RWD engine mounts, whereas the 6 bolt does. The bellhousing will be the same. You may have to use a Starion or a Sigma RWD flywheel and clutch, as the VR-4 clutch/flywheel may be too big.

4G63, 4G62, 4G37, 4G52, 4G54 etc. The bellhousings are the same (apart from the 4G63 wide block and 4G54 auto block). You may have to get a custom flywheel and clutch to suit though. The best engine to replace a 4G32 would be a 4G37 - pretty much identical except larger bore diameter. The 4G62/4G63 is similar to the 4G32/4G37 and shares the same bellhousing pattern.

Build Thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/19487-bandits-starlet-wagon/ Dude that's rockin. Such a rare model. Did it come factory with the 4K-E?

Looking good, keep it up.

The GTO 6G72 is mounted east-west. The early Cyborg turbo 1600cc motors are the 4G61, so will have same mounts as a 4G63. The 4G92 MIVEC motor in the later cyborgs don't have the same bell housing as the 4G6x series engine.

Looks like an early RWD 4G3x series box. It will bolt up to the narrow block 4G63, or any other 4G6x series engine too. The 4G6x engine was actually based on the 4G3x engine, and has lots of similarities, and some identical parts too. You would have to use a flywheel/clutch off a RWD 4G3x engine.

That does sound like detonation. Has your distributor got vacuum advance? Make sure the advancing mechanism isn't stuck or fouled. Retard the timing, and see if it does it again. BTW, when octane boosters say up to 10 points, 1 point equals 0.1 RON. If you put 95 in it, it would most likely have upped it to 96.

Tyger, apparently you can use Mitsi 4G63 rings, or even datto 180B rings, they both have the same boresize of 85mm, and both have 2mm compression rings. Madrx4 - I might drag race it, I'm more just building it up as a project. I'm deciding whether I should drift it, or turn it into a hillclimb/rallysprint/grasskhana car.

Yes, a shaved 4G32 head. Don't bother with any other 4G3 series head, as they will be smaller capacity (bar the 4G37), and have smaller valves etc. All the smaller ones were chain driven anyway.

Bah - suck that those guards are in the south island. Even at standard high it rubs on the guards when agressively cornering cause of the excessive body roll I'm having trouble finding rings, bearings, and all gaskets for the 2T-GEU - ACL and Toyota have stopped making them which sucks. STAparts in akl have some left in stock though, which is good - they are just pricey.

It lowers it serious low - like from 9:1 down to 7:1 - you definitely don't want that! The 4G37 head has bigger valves and probably ports too, but you can easily work your 4G32 head to have the same ports and valves.

Nah the TE71 is 4x114.3mm, same as the Galant too.

Oh yeah. I didn't think of the KE10 and KE20. I meant early Mazda rotaries and early RWD Mazdas like the 323, 626 etc.

Actually that one was a 4x114.3mm as it fits on the Corolla. 4x110 is what Mazda rotaries and early RWDs used.

Yo?

zep - aisan twin barrel downdraft single carb. The whole setup was just stupid. Being suck through it was prone to early turbo failure. It was just a horrible and unreliable system - not much power over the standard motor anyway.

Are you sure it's a 1.8L carby turbo motor? No such thing. the 1.8L Cordia Turbo motor is the 4G62 1795cc SOHC 8 valve with ECI injection. There is a 1.6L carby turbo which was used in the early model Cordia turbo, it's a 4G32 SOHC 1597cc 8 valve with suck through carby turbo system. Anyway.. the Cordia 1.8L block has spaces on the engine for the RWD mounts to bolt up to - threads tapped n all. The 4G62 block is pretty much the same as the 4G63 which the RWD Starion uses (apart from smaller bore of course). You'll need manifolds off a Starion, and other bits and bobs like the water pipe which runs behind the exhaust manifold, and the water pump. Engine should bolt up fine using a RWD Sigma gearbox.

Castrol GTX 20W50, Shell Helix Super 20W50, Valvoline XLD Gold 20W50 etc. Go for the Valvoline, usually comes in 5L packs (or 6L if you are lucky) for same price as 4L pack from Castrol/Shell.

Yeah a blew a head gasket on my 4G37. Except I had oil sludge in my radiator and no milky oil. When we pulled the head off, the head gasket looked ok. There will be no obvious signs, cause all it takes is a hairline crack in the head gasket to make it fail. Buy a new headgasket for $30, or a whole new headset (comes with rocker cover seal, valve stem seals, both manifold gaskets, half moon plug etc for $80.

Nah don't use Magnatec - it's too thin. It's a 10W40. --> isnowi - Magnatec 10W40 is a full mineral oil -- contrary to popular beleif it's not a semi synthetic - ring Castrol, they will be able to confirm. Mitsubishi specify from factory to use 20W40 or 20W50. The 4G54 Astron isn't technologically advanced (SOHC 8V, chain driven) so a 20W50 would be just fine. The 20W50, being thicker, will increase the oil pressure, and give better lubrication - it doesn't need anything thin because lets face it, the ol' Astron isn't a high revving screamer

More info would be great, like the cc rating of each engine you have. There is no Sigma GSL, so perhaps you mean GL, or GLX? If it's a GL it will be the 4G37 1755cc SOHC carby lump. If it's a GLX it will be the 4G63 1997cc SOHC carby. As for the NZ Galant, again depends on what model and motor it has - if it's a GL or GLX it will have a 1.6 or 1.8L SOHC carby 4G32/4G37 same as the Sigma. If it's a Super Saloon or SEi it will be a 4G63 SOHC but injected. Find out what motor is in the L300, and what year it is. L300s began in 1978 and are still in production, and have over a dozen different models - so more info would help. He probably means the second generation, which went from 1986 til 1997ish. They came with either the 2L 4G63 SOHC carby, 2L 4G63 SOHC injected, or the 2.4L 4G64 SOHC injected for the petrol models. Being all Cyclone, they should have the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the Galant and Sigma. They are also all 6 bolt motors, so all have castings on the block for all mounts, be it FWD or RWD. You'll have to swap over the manifolds, water pump, water pipes, and remove the cam belt side engine mount.

4G52 is early RWD sigma. The gearbox which will fit will be from a 2L 4G63 belt driven sigma.

Nope not the 7 bolt 4G63 found in the Evo 1 onwards. The only mount on the engine is the cam belt side engine mount, the other mounts are all on the gearbox. The 6 bolt 4G63s found right up to the E39A Galant have castings on the side of the block for mounts.