fuel

Yeah I would be keen to see the engine bay pics. Looks like a mint ride.

DASH head is 12 valves. Yes it's strange the DASH has 16V pistons but that's how they were from the factory. The 8V 4G62/4G63 engines have cutouts for 3 valves for cylinder so it's nothing out of the ordinary. The DASH engine was pretty much the research and development engine for the VR-4 4G63 DOHC. The bottom end is the same anyway.

Hey dude 4G36 crossmember and mounts should be exactly the same as 4G32 crossmember/mounts. It's the 1200 (4G11) in the EX Lancer which is different mounts but the 4G36 1200cc in the previous Lancers should be fine.

Pretty much. DASH engines come in both wideblock and narrow block, depending if they are RWD Starion or FWD Eterna.

As far as I know the DASH block itself is the same as any other turbo SOHC 4G63 - with two variants: the wideblock RWD for the Starion, and the narrowblock FWD for the Eterna HT. The main difference is the crankshaft, rods and pistons (which are same as the VR-4 4G63 16V beleive it or not) and of course the head and manifolds. If you are doing a full on rebuild and replacing the pistons anyway you might as well just bore it out and fit oversize pistons. You'll probably only have to bore it out 0.020" (0.5mm). What car is it going into just out of curiousity?

Look dude you gotta stop dragging up old posts. Check the dates on the previous posts before you post alright? Dragging up old shit is no longer relevant.

Yeah DX is the base model 1300cc KE70. I think the DX is most common (or the DX is what most young people commonly get their hands on). I get annoyed when people keep saying mine's a "DX bro" but it's not! It's a SE model - none of this base model shit. Mine differs a little to that SE model above - mine has door mounted mirrors and big ugly rubber bumpers. It looks more like the GT.

Donna my TE71 has the same springs as an AE85/AE86 in it. I will get measurements when I'm next in the shed.

No LSD. NZ-new GSRs are nothing like the japanese namesake. You basically get a bigger motor and better trim. I would be suprised if it had larger brakes.

What do you mean it's not a genuine TE71? It's an NZ spec one so has the 2T-B twincarb pushrod engine and drum brake rear end, while the jap-spec GT model has the 2T-GEU and T series disc brake rear end. It's also a 2 dr liftback which GT models don't come out as. It's a TE71 - just not a GT model.

Nah I can't see any chassis rust or rust in the firewall/floor. I think it's just rust on the outer shell where water commonly accumulates. I heard that Toyota had mega rust issues in the early 80s as Toyota Japan changed the type of coating on the bodyshells when they were shipped to NZ, and when they were acid dipped it reacted with the new coating badly or something. I've seen a couple TE71s and KE70s at wreckers with even worse rust than mine. It just seems to be concentrated in a few places while the rest is fine.

I haven't spent too much on it so far, but I do have a few plans for the drivetrain and suspension. 2T-GEU conversion will be done after the panel work, then upgrade the brakes/suspension to TA61/63 Celica struts with 10" vented rotors and hopefully disc brake T series rear end. It's just an ongoing project car really.. I know they aren't worth that much (considering I got it for free), but I will probably sell it after I've had my fun with it. KE70s seem to be going for quite a bit, so surely a TE71 would be able to get a little more than a dirty old DX

Sucks that he's way down there.. might have been keen if he was closer - oh well

Sweet thanks heaps for your suggestions guys... that's just the reassurance I wanted to keep the thing

It would be pretty hard to find another rust free TE71, especially for the price I got mine for I've already done countless hours of work on it already so it would be hard to just get rid of it now. Plus I wouldn't be able to get anything for it really. It had a WOF and rego earlier this year too.

Yeah I know it's a bit of a mission eh I'm still wondering if I should just go ahead and get all the rust fixed, or ditch it and find another shell or something. The rest of the panels are reasonably straight and everything else seems good.

Oh ok.. yeah most of that rust had been bogged up by one of the previous owners. In one place there was newspaper stuffed in behind the bog The big hole in the rear was just a few flakes of rust on the surface, but when I poked around with the screwdriver it turned into that big gaping hole you see now

The doors guards and sills I am just going to use newtech then smooth over it with filler. Does anyone know a good panel beater/welder in Hamilton that can do a cash/beer job? I'm not really liking the idea of spending lots of $$ on it.

As it was such a nice day today I did some more panel work on my TE71 Corolla. It has a few rust spots but I uncovered a few more while sanding away. There's three major areas of rust (possibly structural) and many small patches here and there. Anyway here are some pics: Rust on right front guard and door.. Rust on right door and sill.. Rust on base of B pillar.. Rust around the left rear window - note the previous weld job on the top.. And the worst of the lot, rust at the bottom of the rear left 3/4 panel.. I know the small amounts of rust can be fixed up easily, but I'm worried about the big patches shown in the last few pics.

4G56? Care to explain what a 4G56 is? And those Hyundai motors are actually made by Hyundai - they use Mitsubishi blueprints.

Unless it's a MIVEC engine, it will have hydraulic lifters - which you can't adjust or set or anything. When they get old and the valve inside the lifter gets blocked up they make a noise which could be mistaken for tappet noise. Either take them out and soak in diesel for 24h or replace all 16 of them ($$). You can try Proma MBL8 additive that seems to help alot with mitsis and subarus with the lifter noise.

Why is there a hole in your firewall? Looks like the chassis tag has been cut out... ?

Mitsubishi All 4 stud RWD Mitsubishis are 4x114.3mm All FWD 4 stud Mitsubishis are 4x114.3mm up til around 1991. All 5 stud Mitsubishis are 5x114.3mm.

Haha ew.. the C1x wagon.. you could have at least got a 4WD model, complete with extra high ride height. My parents had one of them, until it got stolen and found in a paddock with a burnt out clutch.

Starion.