fuel

it's pretty normal with single piston floating caliper brake pads I'ld say - all the pads I've pulled out of similar setups have been the same.

oh yeah forgot to mention my exam is until 5pm so no use comin round any earlier than that

oh hey boes. our flat is havin an otp on saturday the 27th - it's the day of our last exam and also havin drinks for my b-day etc - probably celebrate new job stz while I'm at it. all you ham boes know where my pad is, if you don't just pm/txt me. chur

about 1cm of deflection on the long side of the cambelt is what I set mine to, I push the tensioner out about as far as I can push it with my finger then lock it in place by doing up the bolt.

hahahah.. oh god..

my first and last exam is on the 27th of october so I should be sweet

bright pink?

I reckon you should paint them orange just like the car itself, and put the chrome hubcaps on - similar to those 1100's in that 'one more time' ad.

The front rotors in question on retep's car are DBA standard series which I don't think are quite cheap rubbish - the rear rotors are OEM Mitsubishi which were machined probably about 5,000kms before I got them (I converted from drums to discs on the rear, swapped over master cylinder and brake proportioning valve too). Front pads are Bosch, not sure about rear pads.

That's what happened with the fronts originally eh Pete? The steering and pedal shuddered at highish speeds?

oh gutted! how the fuck do people steal whole computers like that?

The fronts were done about 6 months ago from memory. Again I'm kicking myself for not taking the rotors off that rolling body before I dumped it.

you said your cam timing wasn't quite right? Get that all sorted then see if you can get it on the dyno for them to adjust timing at optimum point and to check the a/f ratio isn't leaning out when it shouldn't be. I did that not long after I did the head on the Galant. You recently fitted new bearings and rings eh?

I don't think that's too high - with that CR if you use 98 fuel and get the ignition timing spot on you could take advantage of a bit more power. When my old Galant blew it a headgasket, it still had 185psi on all cylinders (the leak was only between an oil gallery and a water jacket) - after I took the head off and sent it away to be reconditioned the compression came back varying between 205 and 225psi depending on the cylinder - which would make sense as the engine builder shaved the head a fraction and fitted new valves etc. I think now looking back at it, that increase of compression may have been what caused the bottom end to let go some nearly four years later.

I think so

Hrmm I hope it's not the fronts, brand new rotors and pads not long ago. If the steering wheel doesn't shake it could indicate being the rears? Jack up the rear and take the wheels off an inspect the rear brakes, check rotor thickness and check for scoring etc, also check thickness of brake pads - should be min of 3mm of brake pad meat. When I swapped over the rear discs the rotors were machined by previous owner and the pads looked to have a bit of meat left still.

shit from the bottom of the fuel tank could have been sucked up and caught in the fuel filter. It sounds like it's not getting fuel anyway. I had a similar problem with my corolla, after thrashing it for a while on an open grassy area it started running like shit. There was probably debris stuck in one or more of the jets on the carbs - I filled the fuel bowl up half with fuel and half with carby cleaner a few times and just generally blasted the carby with carb cleaner and it seemed to run ok after that. But yeah try changing fuel filter and spark plugs anyway, they are all cheap and would eliminate a couple suspects.

whip the rocker cover off, you'll soon know if it has solid tappets or hydraulic lifter arrangement.

what hill do you have to come over newguy?

probably a good idea if you want to ensure your engine doesn't melt pistons like it did before.

lookin good, how come you used the MZ11 shell instead of the original GZ10 shell?

Well after seeing your piston ringlands like they are I would say it was from running on too low octane, in combination with too higher ignition timing, or possibly a wack air/fuel ratio leaning out in some areas of the rev range. Read this article (it's 8 pages long) - http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/ ... /index.php

the pinking you hear is not the detonation which causes the damage - it's the detonation you can't hear which does

96 from caltex? no such thing dude - it's 91 or 95 these days. Gone are the days of 96. Generally the higher the octane the better, if your engine has advanced timing to take advantage of higher octane the engine will run better and more efficiently. Running 91 to save a few cents is false economy, you end up paying more in the long run.

vac leak maybe? this is a 4A-GE conversion into something eh? have you wired up the diagnostic plug and check engine light?