mikuni

whoa that really sux. I saw it crashed on ulster st. didn't look bad enough to crush! just a little damage front and rear.. anyway... not quite sure what looks photoshoped about those wheels..?? if they were he did an excellent job of getting the shadow/reflection perfect on front and rear..

I've been thinking of putting a comment up about this car but couldn't find a thread. I thought I was just cabbage but I guess there wasn't one. Anyway it looks fuken cool man. There was a nice one on zs' with a 4age in it a little while back but it got crashed. Very awesome cars!

Yeh i know ay. It'll look the part hopefully. I just had a look and my front shocks are out of a suzuki sj4, and my rears are out of an isuzu rodeo i think. They are nice and short. I spent $450 on bushings and shocks so far with more than double that to go for pan-hard, sway bar and springs.

ofcourse you are man, wouldn't be the same without you. I saw the last post in this thread was by you, and I thought to myself how strange it seemed that you would post in a tech thread about geminis etc

that sounds like something cam/sparkle would say (after all they are the same person ay? ) p48 is pretty insane. My car will deffinately be fine as far as being low enough to clear the shocks, but you start running into issues when its jacked up. I'm pretty sure you'd fail a cert/wof if your wheels sit on the shocks at full droop. Anyway I've managed to track down everything needed now. Full nolathane control arm bushings, sway bar (bushings also), ball joints and shocks from some crazy fiat or something that are pretty small. Should have some pics sussed of it crazy low soon.

I think my wheels are p40.. maybe 42. I can't remember but I'm happy with them, they touch on the inside at full lock, don't touch the shock and are as close to the guard as I want to go so I don't think offset could be any better than it is. The camber thing won't work unless I slot the holes which I'm not sure I want to do. And yeh, the real problem with cops is that they don't actually know all the rules. Sometimes they can sticker you for things which aren't even illegal. Often this isn't the case though.. alot of them go easy when they see you're not a wanky boy racer in a h*nda ( )

Heres a link to ozgemini regarding the balljoint camber adjustment that might be of interest to gemini/chevette guys. http://www.ozgemini.com/viewtopic.php?t ... balljoints Some balljoints are offset, some are not. Thats why some confusion may have been caused. Slotting the holes may also be abit dodgy, one guy mentions that the balljoint has a straight cut in one side as it needs to clear the shock mount, so I'll look into that more.. but I've found on ozgem people have a tendency to say things even if they have no idea what they are talking about

I just posted these up in the new toyota mark II forum, so I thort I might aswell copy and paste to here. Its my old '79 Cressida Hardtop (Mark II coupe). Afew of you have probly seen it before for sale or what ever. Was running the M-U 2.0L Straight 6 'power house' Unfortunately my wheels were robbed by some theaving natives who were bigger than me so I decided to sell up and carry on with other projects.

Hey man.. this is coming along so fast I can barely keep up! How did you clean up the undersides of your guards before you sprayed them with the black? Was it with a waterblaster or what?

I've got a certifier sorted and I have been talking to him about what I'm doing. He said he checks that the springs are sitting tight and captive. He also wants 30mm travel before it hits them bump. But thats not clearance. I dunno its hard to explain but at the front even with only 10mm clearance before the bump it still has heaps of travel because of the geometry of the control arms. At the back I will probably just take 10mm off the existing bump to give me the needed clearance - he reckons aslong as the bump isn't all hacked up and rough it can be modified.. and it obviously still needs to function correctly. Some of that stuff sounds a little dodgy to me but he's a qualified guy and he certs vehicles so I assume he knows alot more than most of us here.. haha

Shot man, good luck!

Possibly, just ring a suspension shop and they will tell you the insert diameter - whether it will fit into your strut, and the extended length - you can make sure this is shorter than you existing insert by getting the length of your one from them, and checking yours aswell just to make sure that it does have a ke70 one already and that it hasn't been changed.

Cheers man, yeh I was haven a watch of that thread. Pretty handy, has anyone looked into the ball joint situation yet? Be pretty keen to know if they will sheer off! That other threads more about 'how low' than 'how to' if you know what I mean.

I haven't really talked to him about the rates yet. I'll get them quite hard. They are for my vauxhall, same shit tho but it has much smaller bumps at the rear and is about 20mm off them and them bumps have been cut at the front and its about 10mm off them. I'm only getting the rear done for now as I want to wait untill I get a new engine in before I get the front made.

Possibly some dumb arse wrecker f**kt it up to begin with and sold them as ke70 struts when they aren't? Just an idea as to the possible cause.. sounds abit weird..

I'm pretty sure you can buy new ae8* ones and they are shorter and still use your existing top hat. Look into it, I was going to do it on my old corona. Other than that actually shortening the shocks can be done for very little, but its probably cheaper and easier to buy new shocks. Any suspension place will list them, just get the measurement from top to bottom and make sure they will hold it captive.

Yeh, it should be legal. Just turning it gets you a little but slotting may put a little more stress on it. I'm sure its safe and you wouldn't even be able to see that its been slotted unless you get carried away. Anyway as far as not handling in the straight line, decreased braking and excessive tyre wear, we're talking about a gemini with almost no camber to start with. Its probably only going to raise it up to what most newer vehicles have. Not going 10 degrees or anything! I've also looked into that guard roller. Theres only one guy that does it down here as far as I know and no hire places have the thing. I remember a mate telling me about it - bolts onto the hub apparantly. I think a little bit of everything is probably the way to go. Cheers again for the input.

Don't wanna make the wheels turn more, thats just silly. Yeh i'm considering rolling the guards a little. Good paint tho, It will probably crack. And I don't wanna put bolt ons just yet. I hadn't even thought of camber tho! Crack up, you can get a little bit out of just turning the top ball joint around ay? I think i read that somewhere. Might have a look at slotting those holes. Cheers dudes

I took my car out yesterday and got pulled over. Its kinda low and had no reg but the cop was alright and just had a yarn to be about it and shit. He said he pulled me over to check my steering and said that he can pink sticker me if my front guard touches the tyre.. Which it will as soon as I lower it properly. Does anyone have any ideas as to how you can have the tyres inside the guards at the front and it still be 'legal'. Just enough to get away with it when cops pull u up is all. I'm thinking of putting larger steering dampers in to reduce the lock so it turns less and hopefully the tyres won't hit the guards, and getting this certed if possible. I'm real keen to get it low and not be hassled by the cops. Anyone else have any ideas of what I could try? (I know having a high car is the easy answer)

cheers for the help guys

He basically paid $900. Like saying you can have the radiator for $400, but I won't give it to you unless I can install it and charge $500 for that

Whoa photos! I didn't even notice. Its guna look mean with the roof white, are you leaving the door tops blue?? Nice write up too.. full stops are fukn over-rated Oh martys bringing his dat up on a trailor full of bits on tuesday!

Wow thats pretty cheap ay. 180 is alot beta than 300 if my calculations r korekt! Crappy springs? are they the ones that they leave black rather than painting pretty blue?

Ok, I'll admit it, I'm new to the world of buying coils. I bought "super low" Pedders once (when I was oh but a silly 16 year old) and it was a mistake that I knew straight away I would never make again. Lowered my car a pathetic amount and cost about 3 years wages at Pizza Haven! ($400) Since that moment I had trusted makita, and cut springs have served me well. I'm looking now at getting some springs made up. To get my cut ones to a certable state requires shocks about this long [--------------] no shit I just can't get them. I'm going to take my cut springs (which are the perfect height) to Springtown (free plug - good guys) and get them to make some with a good rate and a little bit of progressiveness so they remain captive with shocks that are a little bit longer than 4cm. Alot of blabbing to get to fuk all, but they charge $300 a pair. Are there any other spring fabricators in the mighty H to the izzle? I think Snells in Auckland are $100 a spring? I'm worried the cabbages at Springtown will fuk them up and give me skylux springs back, but I guess that won't happen.

awesome, paint looks good/dirty. deffinately suits it, now just need ta lower it and an equally dirty 12a. are you selling it or just testing the water?