Chrome_GT

Found this pic. Didn't know where to put it so here yas go Bunnings and Repco usually about $195 for 2.5hp50l during sales. Yeah use the moisture filter too. Also heard that you should use a different airline for air tools than you use for your spray gun. Cos oil can go back into the hose when your using air tools. Also cover everything in your garage. I was lazy - now everything is dusty blue. I used Acrylic Laquer. dunno if there's anything else to add.

Yeah wet the floor to stop dust. I have read somewhere that it should be dry cos vaporising water from the floor causes the paint to dry up mid air before hitting the car. Something to do with latent heat of vapor - bla - bla but I think the dude was full of it! The risk of dust is a whole lot worse that what he was sayin. Wet the floor What type of compressor etc did yas all use. For me a 2.5Hp 50 tank. Cheap as at $190. Only just enough guts to do the mini. I'd connect another tank inline if i was doing a bigger car. http://www.carcraft.com/howto/24820/http://www.carcraft.com/howto/24820/ ^^^a link with hints. Haven't read it but it may have something^^

I tell ya what I did last time(3yrs ago) I raised the car on stands. Then used a skateboard under two scissor jacks to raise and slide the box in. Really dodgy!!! trust me don't do it Get a trolley jack to take the weight. You and your mate should be able to guide it.

May be worth you Pm'ing JR. He was considering electronic digital gauges for his capri's dash. Don't know if he's still doing it though. Yeah C2 and the rest of Autometers stuff is pretty expensive. Why not get a GT dash from a MK2 and modifiy to fit. That way you'll get 6 gauges which will look the part. Just light them up with Blue LED's to make them match you interior Also add a magnetic speedo pickup to that list above ^^. Aftermarket gauges don't often use factory speedo drives eh. edit: just noticed your old gauges are 6pod too. oops

71mini.myphotoalbum.com Here's the mini I did. type whats above in the url bar without www.

Dunno bout North Shore but Repco sells them. Also Autoline but I'm not sure if they have a branch up there or not

Probably the best way to find out is just go in and see firestone or something. See what they've got and they'll tell ya whats manufactured next door. Langdons road. Also talk to people who sell Yokohama cos they do weird tire sizes. I think yoko and one other are the only company that still manufacture mini 10" tyres.

Sweet. Will check all those things. I'll chuck a post up when I have it sorted so ya know what it was.Cheers guys.

The brake pedal in the mini stays at the normal 'brakes on' position. It won't return back by itself. I have to lift the pedal with my toes to release the brakes Anyone had similar problems before. It happened overnight so I'm thinking something mechanical had broken, slipped loose, or something. -Have checked rear brakes for adjustment, will check fronts. -Have had a quick look under dash at the pedal spring, pretty hard to see but nothing obviously wrong - will check front wheel cylindars when i have the front wheels off -Checked fluid - will check master cylindar but thats the last thing I want to do. - considering bleeding the brakes but i don't really think thats what's wrong. Any suggestions? I need to drive my cheap to run car again. Two weeks of using the Capri everyday is getting costly

[/img] A couple bits of info for ya. In this experiment the 14.7:1 was obtained at 0.5volts from the oxygen (lambda) sensor. You can see what voltage to look out for if you want economy (BTE) or Power (BP). I'm not sure if all sensors have the same output voltages. Yeah it does fluctuate too when ya go from rich to lean as SKYCOV said.

Can't get under car tonight. If you really need to know I'll have a peak sometime over next few days. Yeah of course its a GT, wouldn't settle for two gauges and lights would I go the 6pod dash!

Hey. Yeah same as in your pics. Dunno about the tag numbers couldn't see them from where i was lying. Where are the numbers on the diff?

Yeah Mitre 10. Placemakers was a few dollars cheaper though for the same thing. Repco sellem but they cost more theyre and arent 3m branded.

Yeah on the minis roof and bonnet I used paint stripper. That got most of it. In the seems and other areas of the car i used those 3m stripping pads. $18 a pop and i went through 3. But they work good. Don't get the paint stripper on ya skin. It burns like hell! It takes about ten seconds before you feel it but by that time your running f****n fast to get to that water tap eh! Leaves scars too.

Smashed? was the lens broken too? Maybe the bulb socket is stuffed cos someone hit it with something. Check if 12V is getting to the bulb holder. Also make sure it's earthing properly. I think you said all the rear lights were not working last nite. If so I'd check fuses and earth wire.

Yeah I'd probably stick with the Carb-I have three 32/36's in my garage. Doesn't sound to bad so far with what you gouys are saying. Just bought the 'How to power tune' Ford pintos book off trademe. Will have a read through that for info on S-charging.

Reason for pole. Well I just have noticed now that alot of mint cars don't have tints wheras 5 years ago it was pretty rear not to have'm. Just seeing what the general opinion is on them.

RT, aswell as you toyota fellas. What would need to be done to fit a s12 or any other common supercharger to a pinto 2.0. I would love to do the Retrotech turbo setup but way to co$tly for me. All info and ideas appreciated. Belts? Custom brackets? Tubing-manifolds? anything ya can think of p.s what about to a mini a series?

Hey. Just checked my haynes also. Ok pg 12A.1 of haynes manual 0646 1969 to 2001. For a four fuse system, the forth fuse (15A) does side and tail lights, and instrument lights only. The third fuse apparently does the wipers etc. However i know that haynes manuals are often wrong. You say you've removed a fuse and found your wipers don't go. Are you sure the tailights also run off that fuse? My fuses in the '71 are on the right hand side of engine bay . http://71mini.myphotoalbum.com/view_pho ... d=Dscf0512 Its in that photo half way up, about a cm in from your left. Underneath that box which has the headlamp relays etc in it. On myne there are only two fuses there though. Older model. Maybe the instrument lights are powered by the tailight circuit. This makes sense as you'll only ever need your instrument lights when your tailights are on. Headlights separate because they are important and require more juice. Basically if i was you I'd hunt down the power supply to the gauges, then the power supply to the tailights. They've got to meet somewhere.

Shit! i feel the pain. had trouble with my park light/ indicators etc once in the mini. The indicators would sometimes go fine-othertimes not- then sometimes really slowly at awrkwardly. Check every connection. Follow the wires, Find out where they earth, where they're powered from etc. My problem was a corroded bullet terminal. Replaced this and alls good. What happens when you remove each of the two fuses (thats all my whole mini has). Best way with these old cars is just trial and error, and elimination of causes. Maybe the earth connection to one of the fuses is getting old, loose, corroded? Man-good luck

Try Appco again cos I think they can make them to order.

also making the scratches smoother will stop carbon building up within the scratches so easy.

Get her to watch her teeth! Hey. I doubt it will cause a problem but here's some info. Pre ignition occurs when timing too late or mixture lean, causing hotter exhaust gases, causing hot spots on carbon deposits and sharp edges. These hotspots ignite the fuel air charge (next compression stroke) before or at similar time to the spark plug. This can cause two flame fronts to smack into each other creating a explosion type effect similar to detonation. Note the same thing can happen even without the late timing if the edges are sharp enough and in a high temp area. Thats why i think you should make sure the edges of the scratch are not sharp. Other typical places for hotspots are on the valve perimeter where there is the sharp edge. So if there are sharp edges, somehow smooth them out. Ps. detonation is where the timing is too advanced causing gases to expand before tdc which gives too higher pressures which cause self ignition (bang not whoosh) from : http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm CAUSES OF PRE-IGNITION Carbon deposits form a heat barrier and can be a contributing factor to preignition. Other causes include: An overheated spark plug (too hot a heat range for the application). Glowing carbon deposits on a hot exhaust valve (which may mean the valve is running too hot because of poor seating, a weak valve spring or insufficient valve lash). A sharp edge in the combustion chamber or on top of a piston (rounding sharp edges with a grinder can eliminate this cause). Sharp edges on valves that were reground improperly (not enough margin left on the edges). A lean fuel mixture. Low coolant level, slipping fan clutch, inoperative electric cooling fan or other cooling system problem that causes the engine to run hotter than normal.

Yeah K&N. I've read to many stories on the net about ramflos type foam filters going up in flames. I have the 561030 carb. Similar to this. Sounds great at full throttle around the airport! Think of it this way- Ramflo$90 + extinguisher $60 = $150 K&N $220 or so unless you go second hand and clean it. Spend the extra dollars and you won't risk losing your car to fire.

I've heard that the piston doesn't reach the valves on a standard pinto if the belt snaps? Anyways, you'll need to do the timing. Do as RT says and mark everything. One method I'd heard of changing the belt without loosing timeing was to slice the belt in half all the way around. Then jam new one on next to it and cut the rest of the first belt off. I tried that and it was a pain in the arse so don't bother. Mark, remove, & retime. I don't remember removing the pully when i did myne but it was a while ago. I don't have my belt cover fitted so it was alot less hassle. Use a Haynes manual if you haven't done it before. Public libraries always have Cortina books on shelf. Does anyone else run their pintos without the timing belt cover? Has anyone ever actually heard of this causing a problem?