Chrome_GT

Sorry miniman saw your WTB:crank post. None of those. Just this engine. Cam; In that case I'll just continue using my existing radiator in the short term. If it overheats then i'll work on fitting the larger one.

Temp sensor, sweet as. I also had someone tell me the radiator itself has a thicker core. haven't checked yet but I have heaps of spares that came with the car so i'll sort that out. Alright, Looks like Sunday might be the Day.

Ok , here's another question. I'm just checking out all the easy things before commiting to the engine swap. 1) Clutch has plenty of meat 2) Head looks good, valves and seats tidy, I won't be porting at all - too time consuming and apparently the 12g940 is pretty good anyway. Still to decide if i fit the head before the install or just do that afterwards once it is in. Distributor, well not much to check there, and if it doesn't work i have a spareon my 1000 anyway, heaps of spare rots, caps, condensors so not an issue 3) Waterpump, my 1000 has a new one so i'll switch that over, 4) Thermostat, will switch aswell as new thermostat and housing on the 1000 5) Cyl bores look ok as do pistons, haven't measured. Dunno bout rings, will find out later. So anything I've missed.? I don't want to pull it apart otherwise i'll just end up spending way to much time finding and repairing problems that really don't matter. How does the gearchange work? I have access to the remote change ball under the transmission, it doesn't move. Shouldn't i be able to pull and push the ball around etc? I will go under the austin tomorrow to look at the remote system which is still in the car.

Good to hear. Hopefully you'll be getting a little extra power too. I guess that if your running lean then chances are you'd get preiginition no matter what timing and plug heats you use. Man i wish oldschool cars like ours had manifold EGT and oxy sensors, ECU's etc.We'd be able to sort all sorts of running issues out.

Problem is I could get it going, then I'd have to revin and reregister it. And in the end all i'd get is $700 anyway. They may be getting rarer but they aren't worth anything. An I'd have to spend another 6 months watching out for a decent 1300. It is a shame though. My collection is starting to look better! 2 Capris, 2 BLMCs

Just picked up the car and engine. In a way I'm kind of gutted I'm taking the engine from such a minter. It came with lots of goodies: 1300 engine complete 2 spare carburettors Heaps of taillight spares Headlights 3 spare radiators Lots of interior bits like winders, handles, switches. about 7 spare wheels with good tread And a brand new set of driveshaft coupling crosses!! - Just what i needed for the mini. Car is very original and unmolested. No rust, couple small dents from car doos etc, some paint chips. If the mini install goes good i might just chuck the 1000cc into the austin so that it goes.

Thanks - looking forward to getting it now !!

How did you tell miniman? I love that oldschool green they used. Will have to paint it up as i put it in the car.

Is this a 1000, 1100, 0r 1300?

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haha no worries miniman. I fyou think of anything chuck up the info on here. Thanks all

I'm pretty sure that's a symptom related to preignition. Basically your engine is running hot. The 'preiginition'is a term used to describe when the fuel/air mixture is ignited by something other than the spark plug. These can be carbon deposits or localised hot spots such as sharp edges on exhaust valves. These alternative ignition sources are continuing to ignite the fuel/air mix after you've turned off the ignition. Causing Run-ON So yeah, your engine is running too hot. To fix this 1) advance your timing, not retard it. It's probably too retarded which is causing the gases to complete the burning process later than normal so they are heating the exhaust valve too much on there way out. 2) colder plugs, I had the same problem because i had put hotter plugs in. I have since returned to colder plugs and advanced timing a little. 3) Richen fuel mixture. If your engine is running lean then the burn temp is higher. Running richer cools the burn process as the extra fuel absorbs heat energy as it vapourises. Useless info - ideal fuel/o2 mix gives most efficient burn, lean gives most economical burn, rich gives most powerful burn. Preiginition can also cause ignition to occur prior to spark plug ignition. This causes detonation because the extra iginition source leads to two flame fronts (pressure waves) buring across the cylindar, as they come close to meeting they cause unburnt vapour to explode due to a localised pressure rise (detonation). note detonation is also often caused by overadvanced ignition timing or low octane fuel in high compression engines. Shit that hurt. If I'm wrong tell me.

cheers miniman. Tomorrow in daylight I'll have another look at my mini to spot the places where numbers are. Then I might go for a drive to check this car out for myself.

Just found this - knew this had come up somewhere before. http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=8445&highlight=1275+mini

Cool. Just had a look on my mini - definitely a 1000. Any other ways of knowing. Someone I wana buy a car off has said that the engine number is missing.

Are there any easily identifiable external differences between the 1300s and 1100s and 1000s?

hey, sorry i know the details have been mentioned in other threads but i couldn't find them. Basically ''ll be viewing Morris 1300s/1100s etc in the near future to find a donor for my mini. How do i know the engnine is a 1300? I think someone has said the thermostat housing is larger or something - can anyone confirm this? Are there particular engine numbers stamped anywhere easily accessible? Related q: if removing a 1300 from a morris sedan, would i need to swap the gbox to my original one or can i use the whole donor engine/box assembly? What about the drivetrain - i have rubber cross system, do the inner splines still match up or will i have to do an inner CV system? All help appreciated

Yeah talk to a mini club. Foe example I got a valuation done for my Capri from the Tech dude at the Canterbury Capri Club. He charged me $40 or something but he produced a detailed letter justifying the valuation.

Mate that mini is looking great. Loving the widened steelies they look real good. Wish i had a tractor

North Canterbury Classic Tour Sunday 25th March 2007 $10 per vehicle open to all exotic, vintage, classic, rare and unique vehicles (cars, motorcycles and commercial) Departs Janel coffee Lounge, New Brighton, 9am-10am Visits private gardens and a historic Homestead. Anyway, had a note telling me all of this left on my car during skope classics. Thought i'd record the details here before i threw out the flyer. I wouldn't mind the drive and seeing all the cars, but going to private gardens and homesteads - not quite my thing.

^ Could that be from rolling it onto its side when you did underneath? Mini's are great for daily hacks. Dunno if you've seen my project but it got me to uni everyday for 3 years. Best things are they are cheap to run, get quick and easy car parks anywhere, still a real classic, girls always love minis. Very cool project! I only just stumbled on it tonight. Good luck

Bal Joint removal tip: Poor boiled water over it. Honest I had major trouble getting the mini's one to pop free, even with a fork splitter and some decent wacking. Boiled the jug, poored it over the joint and a light tap popped it off. Give it a go next time.

cool. ok so next year should be good then

Did anyone go to auto X? was it any good?

Rangiora is getting better every year. Looking forward to it. Never been to Auto X but if it is as lame as you all say then I'll pass.