v3k

thanks for the offer, but Im a little far away for that. Although. If I break stuff I might give you a yell and some money and get you to post (small) things!

Are you flexing the peddle box when you press the brake? It may be twisting the whole box and the throttle cable too?? Just guessing...

VICTORY!! I managed to get the head off, but now I have to find a replacement nut... Apparently Supercheap cant get them. So I suppose I'll try Repco and then last resort just visit a wrecker.

is that a guess? or an educated guess? Have you heard of anything like that being done before? I mean, I have nothing to lose! But are there any alternatives?

Due to having buggered the top of one of the head nuts in the 4k, and then breaking an eziout in the nut I am at a last resort... Will this work, I plan to cut the top off the nut. (all other nuts a free) remove the head and then have a go at the remaining piece of nut with grips etc... I figure because the nut is mainly unthreaded I will be able to lift the head off like this.... (Yes I know 4k engines are cheap but I dont have the facilities to do an engine swap).

if its anything like the alternator off my V300 then just undo all the bolts around teh middle band and prise apart carefully with a screw driver. Prise both halves off the middle ring before doing anything and check whiich half is connected to the centre band, keep these close (or you will break it like me ) then you should have full access.

well - as an update, things went to plan(ish) until the head bolts started coming out. Or not coming out as it was, all bar two losen easily. Two on the left side of no 1 cylinder wont budge. Cue extension bar One budged a bit, but I believe they have rusted in there What now? Can you get rusted head bolts out and what if they break? Im upping the ante at some stage this week with some stronger sockets and a bigger bar....

None taken, I know it should be piss easy. Just nice to know there is info if I mess something up. That and the gasket isnt all Im doing. But cheers

Howdee... I have picked up a corolla wagon (88 rwd) for dirt cheap, it has 4k in it and with this comes a blown head gasket. I have the gasket set but would like a haynes manual or similar for taking things to bits. Anyone either got one or prepared to help a backyard hack in chch? payment in either cash beer or bourbon. either that or a site with some info on would be nice. I have tried Mr Google to no avail Cheers!

depends what tip you have. A free flow system is nothing with a restrictive peashooter at the end. Also - just with changing exhaust system I doubt you would nothing much on an otherwise std 1600 in that body

I had no idea how chunky the supra box looks compared to the type 9. Hope it work s out RT or Im going to feel like a twit...

hardest looking computer geek I even saw.... I know your not one but... "whos that skinhead in the falcon?"...

Im not sure about the stainless part, I believe that just good old steel plates are used, as stainless is a bastard to weld (am I right here...) Its sounds like there are a few gaps in your knowledge of the workings of engines which might lead to problems down the track. I suggest finding a detailed website outlining a build up and see what porblems/snowball effects they had. (by snowball effects I mean, takes head off to do cam work, finds buggered pistons, removes pistons find shagged crank...etc etc) Also before you do mods, ask yourself "what do I want this car for?" a street car wont want locked diffs, or really aggressive cams. Good luck

Sounds like a good idea, just wondering, is your capri cable clutch? (The manual obviously) How much do you think you will lose at the wheels?

dont get a giant chrome one then... (read rice) Get a nice small, tasteful chrome piece

something shiny.... I got not-so-shiny for my mitsi and even though its my shit daily, I still cringe when I see it. Make sure you get a nice chrome end for the eskie

I have a toyota box in the capri shell I got, Im trying to find which model box (i.e. for the ratios etc... well just being nosey really) Is it likely to have the W55 or whatever stamped on it somewhere? The only number I have found stamped on was 10716061... which no matter where I look I cant find bugger all info. Help please!

I dont know anything about webbers... But there is one on my 2L beasty. When you take the big round (and plastic) air filter cover off it has two square(ish) inlets with butterfly valves in them. Am I likely to be able to find a model number on it? Or can someone give me an idea what it is from my (shite) discription. Also, How much are they worth. (not selling yet, but will)

Possibly, but it only blows smoke for about 5 secs then wont do it again until I leave it overnight again. Also the fact it will blow a little after a hard back off (i.e as revs are dropping, accel off under load) indicates the oil is being sucked it. Im guessing through the valve system somewhere. Chances are the rings arent well either, but if it was them being the major problem, why would it only blow smoke after being left for ages? And then on the next startup no smoke?

I think the next step is a leak test. Not too sure how you go about it but Im sure someone here will know. Something to do with finding where the pressure is escaping.

Well I imagine the power steering runs of the accessory belt.... Depends what is stuffed on the tensioner. The thread could be shagged (in which case... eww...) I dont really know too much about this stuff, but if the tensioner doesnt adjust enough (but still sdjusts some) get a belt smaller by about 5 or 10 mm smaller (just kidding there..... I would do that on someone elses saab...)

Flat mate had a problem like this on his high'n'dry First - check the leads, make sure all connections between the battery and the starter a in good nick. Second, try and borrow a new battery. See if this makes a difference. These two just basically make sure its the starter thats shagged, not that it just isnt getting enough current. After that take the starter out and start it using jumpers and a spanner/screw driver to engage the solenoid. If it works every time like this then the starter is ok and your problem might be in the wiring. Only learnt these lessons after my flatty bought a new starter to find it did the same thing.... It was the battery and wiring, just not enough current getting through.

from what i have read.... you can do it with the head on, but need to move the cylinder you are working on to TDC then you can get a fitting to pressurize the cylinder from an air compressor. This holds the valve up (so they say).... I'd be more inclined to do it as a longer time span repair with the heads coming off and new gaskets etc.... hell, may as well do the cam belt too... shit - Im going to need another car

On second thoughts... scratch that. I found a website with a guide. And simply its not going to happen when I only have 1 car. If I balls it up I wont be able to get to work! Maybe later... you know, once I have got my hands on a capri

My 1988 V3000 blows blue smoke on startup (if left for long enough), then when backing off under load. Im guessing my valve seals are poked. (Well, the advice I have been given is thus) If it was the rings, I'd see smoke more often. What I would like to pick from our brains is how hard a job is it to replace the valve seals. Bearing in mind this is an overhead cam engine. Naively I took off one of the rocker covers to make a basic guesstimate... The cam(s) runs between the valves which are covered by big HD looking springs. This is where my questioning starts, am I going to need to remove the cam and all associated bits and pieces to get at the valve seals? Is it likely to be a bastard to put it back together? And finally - is it worth doing? Sorry this isnt related to an oldschool car, but it is in the area of fixing it yourself and building(or fixing), not buying.... Cheers