Burntrubber

Water in the tank maybe I've had water several times behaves simular to what your saying its doing.

I'm pretty sure I know someone who was in that white car you bought when it rolled and caught fire he got burned a little he's sweet though.

Mates old man has some sorta paint then heat wrap then paint again thats on a 4AGE in a race car you can touch it after a thrash. It will eventually feck the inside of the runners because it keeps all the heat in it also depends on the wall thickness of the tube used. Thin exhaugst tube will tend to scale and fracture thick tube like 3-4mm steam tube will last a lot longer. My mate made turbo headers for his S13 he made them out of exhaugst tube they lasted about a month with wrap on them they were paper thin around the collector. He's made them out of steam tube I think last I heard. I looked at HPC coating for my headers but I'm to tight to pay I got a quote of $350 so I went yeah they can just stay like that.

When I put the turbo on my car I locked the dizzy and eventualy set the static timing at 22 degrees had to back that off 2 degrees after about a week after I went back to work because it was hard to start sometimes and make me late. I put champian gold plugs in last week and its back on 22 degrees with no starting probs So try differant plugs I had brand new bosch's before that.

Yeah will be sweet without the chokes. I had one on my pinto escort years ago was mega hungry but gave more performance thats for sure. I know my dad had to jet it because it was his car originaly before he gave it to me I think he redrilled jets out of a 32/36 because the standard 40/40 ones were to big and 32/36 ones to small or something like that...

I have a VN Commodore diff in my Gemini(not going yet) VK and a half right through to VS live axels have the same setup. As for getting drums off you have to take the axel out to get the dust covers off.

Plus drums lock better when doing a handbrake slide.

Yeah its inside the disk. The disk is the drum if you get what I'm saying hard to explain.

Yeah I do I think its best to get rear disks with an internal drum for the hand brake they lock up better Imo. Yeah may need a bias valve to.

Would'nt be hard if you can make up brackets and weld confidently. There are a few other isues like will the stock master cylinder be big enough and those calipers don't look like they are handbrake type which you will need but they might be just can't see from that pic.

You will have to polish the clear give it a few weeks though. Also if you painted it in your own shed theres probably a bit of overspray in the clear which will make it bit harder to get even. Mine was the same when my mate painted it for me but looks ok after a polish.

Have a look at this site a lot of info on Datsun 1200 here. http://datsun1200.com/modules/nsections/index.php?op=viewarticle&artid=35

Got a reasonable deal on that also paid $180 I think can't remember its really tight to.

Got a really good deal on that only $60 for a complete housing with disk brakes.

Yes VN 2L is what the 4.1 gears came from and they swaped straight over I was happy 2.92 would have been shit and no idea how much custom gears would have cost.

Ah I get ya now. In the pictures you can see were the driveshaft piviots the big round bit with bolts in it. There is also some sort of telescopic joint inside a rubber boot there.

Oh ok not to sure what you mean? The height the center bearing is mounted on the crossmember has been changed from what's in that pic because the pinion angle did'nt match up with the diff at full travel. How long the top arm is judges the rate the diff pivots as it goes up and down and its pretty close the drive shaft and pinion flange stay allmost inline all the way from ride height to on the bump stops. Is that what you mean by worth checking on.

Prety much finished the diff just axels and a tidy up and paint ect, done the drive shaft also lots of dramas but it's all done now. I went with a wierd desine for the top arms just one arm in the center rather than two or a ladder bar type setup. I used a commy two piece drive shaft that worked out cool as once chopped and welded back together. This is were the arm mounts in the drive shaft tunnel Commy drive shaft shortened with the Gemini gearbox yoke.

Here have a look at this web page. http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Float_Level_1.htm

Hilux would be the best for a rotor

Thats it exactly. Drag cars have no exaughst because they don't care if it spools early they want no restriction at max boost.

I only have 2" mandrell on my 1600 and starts spooling below 3000rpm

Cheers for that might be doing a two piece now. Guys on the gemini forums recon its the best option spose it depends on which type of drive shaft I find first.

Are the falcon drive shafts one piece? I found a commy one but its two piece I have the falcon and commy pinion flanges so either will do if I can find a one piece ofcourse

Yeah will do. Want it done by christmass which means I'm going to be busy and poor. As for making others I'll be doing one for an Escort next year probably.