SYKOV6

nah they usually make a high pitched squealing noise

yeah sounds like the starter is not disengaging check it out might need a lube or the solinoid is sticking

what brand is it do u have it on pump?

hey thanx for the heads up bro , but im not about to drive 500kms just to buy avgas. ill just drive the 8 kms to the aerodrome and fill up a couple of 20s for $1.60 lt. hey and my cars pure oldschool bra there are no mod cons and certinly no cats in my exhaust cept for the occasional one i might run over haha

its about 10.7-1 but i have a 310dur cam so the engine bleeds comp until about 2500rpm because the inlet and exhaust valves overlap so much. theres less chance of detonation after 3-4000 because the engine is free reving and not loaded right up. because my engine is basically a race item i am more concerned about total advance not static advance. i set it up at 2500rpm to 38deg total which is heaps for a chevy. which works out at about 17deg static

i was allways told that too. i have a mini spool in the corty and have found no probs in any slow speed driving. its a little noisier and more harsh bump wise but no harder to manouver. and its great for qik u turns just point and plant

or a big fuckin hairdryer the only prob with av is that ya cant roll up to the place that sells it and fill ya beast up, UNLESS.. make some plywood wings up and try and convince the seller its an areoplane . ive been experimenting with 98 with nulon octane boost for the corty as it also has too much comp 4 pump gas . this combo works well and feels pretty much the same as av can even keep my 17deg timing the same. have to go to 10deg on 96 then it wont start or idle properly. can go 12-15 on 98 better but still feels a bit flat.

just weld the fucker up dude will last heaps longer

only if ya get pulled by the cops on an older engine av is prolly better cause it has lead in it which lubes the valve stems and guides and stops valve seat recession which is the wearing out of the valve seat cause unleaded is dry and the valves rotate when the engine is running. 4ks have an alloy head anyway so you wont have that prob cause they have hardened valve seats.

yeah just the timing prolly take it up to 12-15 degs . is it just a stock head thats been planed down heaps or has it got other mods aswell?

yeah should be sweet but check it out thourally first somwhere like steelie gears or diffs r us should be able to help ya out with what fits and what doesnt

yup xa 6cyl with h/duty core had to space the sway bar down 10mm to get it in too

hi guys just want to straighten sumthin out a ford 8in is not a falcon diff. what u are refering to is a xw-xf borg warner 78 series diff which loads out the back like an atlas. it came out in all falcons bar GTs and some higher spec v8s which had a 9in. the '78' also came out in aussie 6 cyl cortinas. they came out in 2.77- 3.5 ratio the latter being a ute diff. though im sure you can buy aftermarket ratios for them up to 4.33. a ford 8in is an early mustang and medium passenger sized car diff it is essensially the same as a 9in has the same axles and splines the '8' or ;9'in comes from the size of the crown wheel carrier the 9in being 9inches in dia. im pretty sure that the '78' also came out in 90s commonwhores in which the 2.0 litre vn 4cyl had 4.11 4 spider ratios . the '78' is plenty strong and has an lsd option can also buy spools and mini spools for higher hp applications. dave

if ya wanna do the extractors ya self, cut and tack all the bits how u want them with ya arc welder then take them to a welder to finish with a mig. saves u all the time/cost of someone else having to fuck around making them all fit.

the bar is the tube that supports the brake rod as the master cyl is right up the front mk2 esky stylz cept no booster[i got strong legs] had do do it this way to clear the headers. its very tight on that side ill look for a pic to post up so u can see. thanx james nah ill keep it for a while i think. shiny bits its just a cheap taiwanese thermostat housing the stainless allen head bolts were a bit dear though about $70 for 20. heres that pic clck on it get a better view

thought it was about time i got off my arse and posted it up, here goes 1968 mk2 cortina 1600, column change, bench seat, yeeha MODS: ENGINE, 1984 chevy 229v6 [3.8lt] SPECS: steel crank , shot peened rods , 60 thou over flat top pistons, 10.5-1 comp, 58lift/310dur crow cam, solid lifters, hardened pushrods, yella terra roller rockers, oversize stainless valves, double valve springs, titainium retainers, heads fully ported and polished, edelbrock victor jnr manifold, 465cfm holley 4 barrel, HEI ignition, rev kit , moroso 50,000 volt coil, custom headers hpc coated, custom winged sump, engine is fully balanced and will rev to 8000rpm. power approx 320hp@7250rpm TRANS: GMH turbo 350 with h/duty clutches and a stage 2 shift kit, holden 1 tonner d/shaft with h/duty uni joints, 3000rpm stall convertor DIFF: ford 8 in 4.11 gears and mini spool , caltrac traction bars SUSPENSION/BRAKES: FRONT- toyota soarer vented rotors, volvo 4 spots, lovells springs, monroe gt gas shocks, mk3 zephyr hubs[falc stud pattern] REAR: mustang drums , stock rear leaves , gt gas shocks, sierra master cyl BODY: full respray arctic white , full rewire , deloomed engine bay, polished grill , modded cordia scoop, datto 1600sss seats, autometer tach, B+M shifter, new hood lining in black , resprayed sun visors, new parcel tray carpet , sprayed door trims,

good answer dude!

take it to an auto sparky dude b4 ya burn the whole loom out electrics fuck me too

there may b a 265/50/15 BFG that will fit . might be a stretch on a 7in rim though and under the guards of ya capri

havent heard of anyone making drop spindles for 4wds only 2wd nissans . think they have different fr suspension

as the engine is mitsi and the car is mazda i dout very much if it would go str8 in. but there shouldnt be too much of a prob gettin it to fit new mounts and modded g/box cross member maybe a sump

sweet post away

ive been thinkin about rigging one up as a tuning aid as dyno time isnt cheap. any oxy sensor hooked up can be read witha volt meter as the voltage will fluctuate as it goes from rich to lean. u just have to figure out which reading is which. reving the engine should give a rich reading or a certain voltage. then you know what voltage a lean reading should give. with a bit of trail and error at idle you can get a handle on the mixture readings while your driving. this is meant to work i havent tried it so its not proven but it sounds correct in theory

as a rule long collectors are good for low down and mid range power and short ones are for top end. i have short ones only about 150mm long and my engine is pretty shy of bottom end until about 3500rpm where the cam and heads start working together then shes all good to 7500

ya really need to know the specs of the cam eg lift/duration to know what the motor will behave like. putting a 'stage 5' cam in a fairly stock engine would prolly make less power than a 'stage 2 ' or 3 which are more suited to fairly basic mods eg carb and exhaust