Mr.Mk1

Went for a hoon over the hills and took in a few country pubs with some other 1200s and a 260, car went well and no issues. Today I butchered a couple of old standard A12 downpipes I no longer need and made a flange so this will make life a lot easier in the future! Not to mention tidier looking. There's a pie cut left open cause I don't know what angle it needs to be yet

Got the exhaust off the floor and tweaked the pipe by the idler and took it for a fang. It goes really well! Sounds fantastic but on the loud side. Have since tidied up hoses and things but I needed a picture

Shit, maybe? I remember only one half has the centre groove

Got to the go ahead to modify so a few pie-cuts and welds and the exhaust was clear. got it running last night after figuring out which of the various hose tails was the fuel inlet, and blocked the (anodised purple) vac block off as I have no brake booster, and finished the exhaust and a little more tidying today, drove out of shed. the throttle cable is lacklustre and I need to come up with a nicer bracket. Got a good bark to it, quite funny watching it jiggle away at idle. Will need to readdress the exhaust as now it's a lot closer to the floor in one spot and the idler is almost touching

I've seen it running in the vanette it came from a few years back.. quick google says Datsun mechanical pump 2.5-3.5 and R1 2-3 so be interesting to see what happens under load. its an H89 oval port head that's been hucked out to round and ported n polished, can seen different guides at the very least

The cranks getting machine and I needed cheering up, and the car for a tiki tour in a fortnight, so borrowed this A15 with R1 carbs and a bit of work done. the manifolds are on the same flange and it's to suit a vanette so the extractors hit the idler and the floor so I might need to modify a little but might also just flag it and use my carbs and extractors

I like your moreys trick to help build initial pressure noted in another thread .. Do you fill the filter with oil and feed the moreys into the pump until it's about to puke into the block, spin filter on and bolt it up?

Yep

The plunger was gone when I checked. well! it turned out to be a dud ignition switch. i hotwired it and it fired straight up, ran great but then I wound on the revs to run in the cam and it started rattling. so out it came, apart she went and it's fucked I'm rapt I got to the bottom of it, gutted it's taken a month, a lot of stress and cost probably $500 all for the sake of one bung wire. we will rebuild! I'll send the crank to the shop and see if it will polish up cause there's 2 pretty dull journals, otherwise they'll get the rest and I'll have it assembled oversize, lob the head on and throw it back in. and look for a new ignition

Clint wins the chocolate fish, hotwired it and fired straight up. BUT it's making a decent rattle so it's gotta come apart again anyway. will start tearing out when it cools down. sigh

Brendan reckons he has used it as-is in the past but might be worth a try, cheers

Wire snipped off, like all other A1*s I've had

Looks fine, is intact. Might borrow jess' and test

It was discussed.. but never missed a beat prior to engine swap and also when it does start it's normal not when the key comes off cranking. Hotwire?

Well fuck this things been fighting me hard ever since and it's been thoroughly depressing. Briefly: Engine is tight, old starter stopped cranking it, like it would crank then click another 20 times then crank again. If I turned the engine on the pulley bolt to a different part of the cycle it would crank again but not always. took starter apart and cleaned up/greased..throws out fine on bench but never went again in situ. borrowed a good one and it's epic old battery an issue also so have to charge it after every attempt and use a spare to help jump. bit of shit in carb tried to fill it with juice. battery cables getting very hot, replaced positive to starter. No way only negative gets warm. added another makeshift earth from block to body. got a new battery that may be faulty cause it's not a lot better but borrowed a brand new one and it was sweet. longest it ever runs is about 5 seconds, coil lead was bit loose, fixed, still shit, tried new lead, spark erratic. i do all my own stunts so I can't hit the key and attend to carb 100% but copious amounts of engine start should help? tried wife's dailys cap with leads and no real advantage. tried a near new coil, same shit. it will crank away but then as u let off the key it sometimes Gives a cough to start but of course you've just switched it off then it wont take back up where it was or the battery is too lame. gave it a new condenser and it livened up and fired quite quickly but still no more run time and only did it once. the cam was ground advanced so I could throw it back in to factory specs and it would be a good starting point.. I thought. mint16 and I are happy with static timing and firing order etc. bad earths couldn't cause this? As everything has just been painted? theres a wire from the horn mount (a solid bracket on the chassis) to oil pump bolt-block, a lead from neg on batt,-to the strut tower,-to the block, and another from other strut to block. Obviously I don't want to hack off the paint to bare steel under the body points to see, it should earth through the threads.

Engines back in and plumbed, borrowed a standard inlet and carb from mint16 to use while its run in to eliminate teething issues with twin carbs. just missing one carb bit and I can fire it up. Haven't attached headers to exhaust yet just incase it needs to come out for any reason. Even though they are 120y flows they clear everything well, just had to trim the last 4 inches off cause it tilted upward and was touching the modified gearbox member but now it's trimmed off its nicely in line with the old system. hoarding cured a few problems I had with radiator and breather hoses so that was a good result with no outlay! stand by

Things happened and the motors in the bay

started off a bit hmmmm. the hardner went off so tried some other stuff I have laying around and seem to have gotten away with it! It's touch dry and I can leave it sit for a week. Yes I painted over the brake lines but it's so frustrating unmasking them that I now just put paper behind them and spray them black with an aerosol.

Good day today, went well filled and tidied 20-something holes that weren't needed, cleaned and sanded, masked up ready to spray some red tomorrow. Also painted the horn, brackets, regulator, wiper motor etc. chopped out some wires that went to nowhere, trimmed back the old fuel return.

Got the thing assembled...mostly Heres the cut and shut manifold we made, came out wicked, thanks nick! Was choked by the gasket set missing 2 sump parts and a rocker cover gasket... ACL set had lots of spare Manifold and hotbox gaskets and missing the vital ones. Permaseal has EVERYTHING! the set was left over from when engine builder supplied gasket set for wife's A14. And I too had permaseal from work. That and no crank pulley bolt. Pinched the wife's one while assembling and luckily remembered to give it back.

Out you come old chum

I'm back! had another jobs taking up all my spare time but that's out of the shed and I can forge on with Mine. in the interim, in no particular order I got some dobi springs and mk1 golf gas shocks, front of car bottoms out pretty bad when cornering and bumping. Probably doesn't have bump stops in there but may as well upgrade, they were cheap. Need to shorten the struts to accept the shorter golf shocks. nick the fab wizard at MFS has the manifolds and carbs to cobble together. I got Rob to spec up a cam and kelford ground it, gave stuff to ERS in tai tapu- head planed around a mil, he skimmed the block for free 'cause it looks good and the gasket will grip nice', and installed the cam bearings. brendon gave me a stack of rockers to go through and find a good one so I did, pulled it apart and cleaned up ready. picked engine up last nite so today I cleaned up the ports and casting marks, cleaned the head, lapped the valves, loaded the springs and put the rockers on. also cleaned and polished the crank, rehoned, cleaned out the block and galleries. i was in the mood to assemble it but a mate is keen to see how they go together so I'll hopefully do that this week.

The body is done! Just need to put some sealer on the underside of wheel arches then move onto the front guards and bonnet. Have a donor bonnet that's good apart from one back corner so will slice it off the blue one.

The last time it happened, was also on a public holiday!

Then I was doing a patch in the sill and RAN OUT OF GAS. Fucking rage. So I was left to make all the rest of the body patches and rust kill and seal seams. While feeding rust converter all around through a hole, the brush posed no resistance.. FUUUUUUCK. Most akward placement. like an archaeological dig in the rear guard, that's about 4 inches of dirt. found a bulb. Luckily the rust hasn't eaten through the inner yet so took a good clean and rust kill. made patches for the bottom of the guard x2, outer C pillar x2, another 4 in wheel arch and the ugly one for the inner guard, coaxed the frame off the other front guard then gave up for the day.