Hemi

... they dont nemore that sucks , my mate josh has a 3tgte in his garage i was gonna grab that too but dont have a car to out it in

man thats awesome

i heard the twin carbies for hillman hunters were cunts to tune?? iuuno my mate has some lying around somwhere ill ask him about them

i would have to think that resetting them and adding another leaf will be better less tramp etc stiffer so bottoms out less

i think u use that urethane stuf dont u?? never hardens blah blah ?? , u get it off with turps dont u? well i did anyhow can buy it from any hardware store or supercheap

yea re-building engine is easy if u follow the book and do everything properly , i reckon the hardest part would be the timing belt/chain i always get owned on those things

all i can thinkof is that when the water gets into the radiator its cooling it enough but its not going fromt eh radiator to the engine fast enough ...gets my drift??? , oil cooler would solve this easy i wouldbe thinking , diesel 4wding things have the same problem have huge fan and radiators but the mechanical water pump cant pump water fast enough at idle and the engine ends up cooking itself

magnatec is sweet as man , MIGHT be a bit thin due the age of ur engine but i ran the esky on magnatec and it was mint , u shouldnt need the moerys with magnatec as it doe sthe same job , bit puzzled on the lifters though and i cant for the life of me remember how to fix that

try smacking the bolts on the head with a hammer aswell ...hard , it usually cracks them .

ahh hydruclis lifters ...awesome but ahh crap ...lol i was putting a head back together and craked 2 of the lifters ...my bad when re-building and engine makes sure none of the pistons are at tdc

get methanol it would be antiknock additive if the company that made the tetra lead one didnt do something about it , and its cheap if u know where to go

yea dont go near anything bar one piece gaskets ive had more then enough turbos come through work that are completely farked the center housing and exhaust blades because of a piece deciding to leave the manifold etc......, is it for the turbo or the headers?

first off what kinda motor u have?? cos old gearbox oil is usually quite thick (like diff oil) , but newer oil is more like motor oil so u dont have the problem when cold like the older boxes , l manual or auto??? if auto then it might be brownish??? and thats quite thin oil (should usually actually be red but yea ) ,

then rip the radiator out and flush it ....... and with the head ive done those heaps takes at the most say about 1 1/2 on and off , and the headgasket is about ..k cant remember lol , but suounds like your headgasket aye take the radi cap off and run the thing , OR run the car from cold for 2 mins then take the cap off , if it pops off then well yea heagsket or cracked head

its all been siad haha yea broken springs inside the master cylinder im thinking

im with retro , drill the hole , what your coolant/water mixture at?? if uve got too much coolant it makes it worse (water is actually better and conducting heat then coolant ) and the electric fan will defiantly help man , also becuase your engine is high ass comp[ression maybe better fuel ??? burns alot cooler

oh yea forgot about my ex work lol , yea they look much tidier

uhh dunno i thought both were the same haha oh yea the oil thing good idea ...not really needed but yea good idea cheers sykov6

itll be there my friend , has to be its a lil chink out of the pulley , if u cant find it then taek the spark plug out and turn ur motor over while u have say a pencil held in the hole ...wait till it gets to the top , there top dead center .....then just slide the dizzy in so that one of the lil points on the rotor points to cylinder 1 ...its shoudl be able to start , then after u just time it up with the light ...sweet as mongol

nuthing wrong with crc on the anything really , itll mix t\with the oil fine and at any rate thats what the running in period is for

bang on eski boi , just getsn rid of the pressure in the crankcase which might be takign up horsepower , and it makes ur motor just that bit more cleaner (i think) , i wouldnt trust the mechanical pump to supply fuel but then again if the carb bowl is big enough and ur not foot to the floor all the time i guess its fine

i agree with rt's one but if the engine is out then reverse flush the bugger , dont really need much pressure just flush from bottom hose and bottom of raditator till water goes clear , shit ive done it enough i should know haha . and yea get a GOOD quality coolant not the $5 stuff you buy at my work (supercheap) does more harm then good that stuff

the engine re-breather* itll come out of the block or rocker cover and go into the base of the carby/air filter

if u do that then just compleletly bypass the mechanical one and like hook that up to the pcv valve that add horsepower belive it or not , im not sure wether id trust the mech pump to keep up with the fuel requirements of the turboed motor ... but i could be wrong

i forgot to mention i that the 4age will be coming with a box on the end of it , o i c what your getting at now haha fair call i thought u ment labour etc i was like wtf man . itll only be getting things that cant be replaced with the engine in e.g clutch etc spark plug i can get for umm free lead last time i cheacked were freaking expensive so bugger that haha