RXFORD

Is it spinning fast enough to throw little electric people where they need to go?

ie; pulley sizing correct for idle speed of crank pulley diam?

Side note: those horrendous looking pullmax dies were a quick slap togethor for a test job that I reshaped for this purpose. I know Pullmax baby Jesus was weeping seeing those pics but they work fine. 

Morrie thou at Avondale Pick-a-Part.

Looked tidy, seems a shame for it to be parted.

This fuch-ing guy showing off. 

Hiace truck! Gizzz

On 10/10/2023 at 10:44, RUNAMUCK said:

Ive seen cunts daily-ing dereg cars. No wof, no reg, no worries.

I just keep my trade plate on me. Its cheaper than paying for wof/reg haha. 

2 hours ago, cletus said:

cut the carpet out if it's got modified seats 

A round bit of pipe sharpened like a gasket punch, then made hot with a propane torch melts the carpet edge so it doesn't fray and makes a neat hole 

Soldering Iron works pretty chur too. 

2 hours ago, kws said:

Does anyone here know/work with compliance for Japanese imports, specifically regarding rust repairs? Im importing a car that's been flagged for rust, which in my eyes is fairly minor surface rust, but I'm being told it will need massive amounts of work, engine pulled out etc and i should just resell the car in Japan and take the loss. Am I being taken for a ride, or is this normal?

Photos attached are the worst of the rust, from the photos I've been provided.

Your best bet would be to engage a repair certifier to look over it as you will need one regardless at some stage. They charge by the hour so worst case it'l cost you maybe a few hundy tops to have a definitive answer about what they would like repaired and how they would like it done. 

If you want to proceed from there they can start a file on it. 

Is the alt one that can wizz over either way? If not is it spinning the correct way?

Does it have a decent earth to block? Paint on engine mount might be an issue? 

This ones stainless and mounts between strut towers. Fills up near rear window gutter so you would have to seal off boot area for cert so any fumes can't make it through to cabin. At a guess i'd say its 50-60L

have they already started the tank for you? @piazzanoob has the tank which came out of triple3/Lance's old coupe that might be a good option for you?

Motorsport Electronics sell the symmetrical type fuel rail. It looks a bit nicer than the offset style. From memory it has a bigger bore too which is the correct size for threading. (Its been a while so I've forgotten what thread)

Drilling 0.1 undersize then wrapping a bit of red/grey scotch pad around a small drillbit is a good way to polish the bores of the drilled holes.

The injector will dictate the mounting height and type of seal.

Anything thicker than 3mm to 1.3 is a bit silly in my opinion. Kinda like hanging a brick off paper.

The heat affected zone from blazing 4mm+ to the thinner material would counter any benefits of having a thicker load plate imo. 

I would use 3mm but make the plate fairly big/long to spread the load. It will need to span the full height of the oem rail or xmember to meet requirements. I probably wouldn't fully weld it to a chassis that thin either. Just stitch weld to keep the haz to a minimum. Radius corners and 'Fish mouth' or 'diamond' the ends where the plate crosses perpendicular to the rail instead of just having a square cut. Adding a few plug welds here and there is sensible too. 

I would definitely speak to the certifier you plan to use about it. There may be additional things he would like to see being that its basically sheetmetal. 

14 hours ago, Raizer said:

I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure knurled rollers are made for flux core wire?

V for solid and U for softer wire like aluminium.

Yeh ya probably right to be fair. I've been around f/c alot so I'm used to them. I run knurled in my machines with solid wire. Saves having slippage issues with single roller drive and a 15kg spool.

Generally the guide rolls have a tiny knurling on the radius/groove to help grip the wire. Not sure how easy that would be to replicate if they were machined. They almost look crimped. 

You can use 0.8 tips with 0.6 wire, but you may get a little 'arc wander'.

Sneaky Vanagon spotto whilst waiting for my fush'n'chups. 

On 08/08/2023 at 14:49, kpr said:

ac/dc tig,  200amp or  more,   budget around 3k.     Any stand out machines these days?  or chose your chinese shade of colour ?

If you have 3ph you may be able to pick up an older Miller Syncrowave or Lincoln Squarewave for around that kinda money. They are bigger transformer type machines but pretty solid/reliable bits of gear.

If you are after a single phase invertor style I'd probably look into a Cigweld Weldskill 205. Can get them new for under $3k.

I wonder if that hatch's nickname is bruce jenner.

3 hours ago, Tiger Tamer said:

I have been looking out for the old Hilux diffs, as they are plenty strong. They seem to be becoming as rare as all the diffs from the 60's 70's.

I have bought new wheels for the car already so I want to keep them if I can. 

Earlier hilux stuff is hard to get and alot of the Rn era housings are bent from farm use.  Easier just to get a later one and narrow to suit. I have a jig setup for narrowing G-series housings if you end up going down the hilux route.

Or Murray at Weber Specialties in Akl.

On 02/08/2023 at 06:06, RUNAMUCK said:

Just happened across your thread for the first time. You have all  the drag link clearance! Mine is tons closer. Defo pays to check your full range of steering too. On some vehicles, the link raises and lowers although its sweep. And some it moves forward and back.

Fyi, the 2000 era 2wd Hilux draglink is same geometry but has a dip in the centre. Bolts up to the earlier shapes and gives a bit more clearance. 

In Nsw and Qld, the law has been using public social media accounts to keep an eye on modified cars. They look up the mod plates attached to the license plate and see what changes have been made since issue date through the social media posts. Then without notice they void the rego/mod plates and request the vehicle be reinspected. Pretty gnarly. Gotta be careful posting license plates eh, never know whos watching. 

38 minutes ago, Nominal said:

It's really easy to make your own 4-bars. I did for the Mercury and they passed cert and haven't broken yet.

I also just put the bars where they fit. Calculators? pfft, unless you are going racing or something.

You must have fluked it, or have limited travel? Generally just winging it and attaching the pickup points anywhere leads to excessive pinion angle change and dshaft plunge which is never ideal come cert time. 

1 hour ago, shizzl said:

my thoughts were always to set the diff to ride height with correct pinion angle, the set the diff linkage bushes vertical and the bars parallel to the ground.

but I’m no scientist 

Parallel upper & lower bars give an infinite instant centre which isn't ideal. It gives pretty much no anti-squat% so not alot of added load on rear wheels under acceleration other than the unsprung weights. This can lead to axle tramping when breaking traction, and poor traction when accelrating out of corners amongst other issues. Vertical separation on axle pickup points should be greater to give a known i/c forward of axle. An i/c around the front bumper is usually considered pretty good for street cars as it gives enough traction for the general use, but not so much that its going to hook up like a drag car. 

Typically panhards have never been a great option in the minitruck world due to the larger range of travel that bags give compared to coilovers etc. The added travel makes the panhard push/pull more which wouldn't be an issue if you had skinny rims, but people are usually trying to stuff the biggest diam & widest rims they can under the tray. With limited room between the outer skin and chassis the sideways movement can be an issue. 

To be honest the only bagged ute I can ever remember having a panhard in Nz was @cletus navara, and he might have a story about axle shift vs wheels haha. 

If running a parallel 4-bar, a watts would be the better option, but due the extra cost/engineering of a watts the common choice is a triangulated 4-bar.

Oh man, that sucks.

Wtf is going on with that intake?