RXFORD

@Nominal yours I'm guessing?

@Nominal , this auction finished last night down in Gore. Fuckin glad I got mine eons ago when they weren't big money. 

4 hours ago, oldrx7 said:

Soooooo much better than trailer wheels

I checked my hiace one here and apparantly it is...

But yeh cast/forged possibly. I spoke with the bald jesus @cletus himself about about narrowing them that way eons ago and he rekons it was a jailable offense at the time or something like that. 

24 minutes ago, zep said:

My diff has been shortened but I have realised that it would be good to come in about 5-10mm more on each side. Since all the brackets are already welded on, would it be okay to cut the axle housing flanges off, remove that 5-10mm, and weld them back on? I would shorten the axles at the splines to suit.

Technically no if it was spotted because you are not allowed to weld castings, which is why I shorten them through the housing tubes.

If you remade the flanges from weldable steel however...

Get an initial inspection done and have a chat with repair certifier to undertand the process. He will say what he wants to see and how he would like it done. He will also tell you at what stages he needs to come back for progress inspections, which will depend of the level of repairs needed.

And take a shitload of photos throughout.

Can give you a more detailed example of the way I go through the process if you want to pm me. 

And they think a firearms register is a good idea...

I get the nostalgia but the Kiwi rotary scene is weird when it comes to wheels.

Any other scene you get given shit for putting either cheap/fake wheels on an expensive car, or expensive/genuine wheels on a shitbox. 

The kiwi rotary scene though, get fizzed up over cheap/common wheels on expensive cars. 70% of the scene probably run 5 different types of rims that cost a grand or so.

Nowhere near as bad as the Aussie rotary scene and I'm not really picking sides, its just an observation. I find it odd/interesting that you hardly see early mazdas with old 3pc jap wheels built out like the old Toyota scene. 

Might help to make a wireframe buck/template first. Can do it with tig wire or gas welding 'panel' wire.

Bend the wire to the shape you want, tape/tack weld them togethor, then you can lay paper over in sections to transfer onto Ali sheet. 

Re: 620 diff. Do you recall what that 3.9 you scored came from? Thats a pretty rare find.  If it was same axle spline then must have been from an old Silvia as the Fairlady Roadster and 1600 Wagons have smaller spines.

If you come across another, let me know, I need one for my pickup. 

12 hours ago, 87creepin said:

Does anyone know which PaP or Zebra in Auckland has the best selection of tyres? 

Probably Takanini PickaPart. Theres a rack of them, then a shitload just scattered in the ground. 

Zebras selection was ok, but I havn't been back there since they reopened recently. 

Is an Gtr style intercooler an option? Shorter but quite wide. Instead of having the outlets of the end of the tanks, have them exit back toward engine.

Or just run a smaller one so you don't have to change piping but have a water/meth setup as backup?

Uber rare factory optioned v8 coupe up for grabs. Known as the Rx5.7

Next step, Kpr tests his 4age on Hydrazine.

You need at least 0.5° operating angle on a UJ. Lesser the front shaft angle difference the better but not less than 0.5°. Currently you are at 0°. And max 3-3.5° operating angle on front UJ out of box.

Now if you raise the hanger bearing so front UJ operating angle is 0.5-1° (front shaft initial angle of ~4° down) it will lessen the centre and rear UJ angles and still be within the max 3° front UJ angle.

Centre and rear UJ's still have pretty bad angles but not much can be done about that without a fair bit of rework. If you set the pinion to ~6° down (flange pointing up) it will compensate for a degree or so of bushing flex under acceleration and get you close enough to where it should be happy.

Link design/geometry will play a big part in driveline performance too, but thats confusion for another day. 

If the oiling system allowed it, and if I was chasing driveline perfection I would be setting the engine to as flat as possible and remaking the manifold/tunnel etc to suit. 

Just depends how much work you want to do I guess.

Because you have a greater angle on the gearbox than the first shaft, raising the hanger will make the operating angle of the front UJ worse and its already at 3.5° based on the angles you mentioned on box and first shaft, so wouldn't really want to go any more than that. 

The lower the first shaft angle, the less rotational pulsation the second shaft will have to try cancel out. The higher the rpm, the lower the operating angle should be. 

If it was the other way around like most vehicles, for example the gearbox was 3° down and the first shaft was 6.5° down, then raising the hanger would help get the front UJ to a lesser angle.

Are you sure the box is 6.5° with carb where it needs to be? Are you measuring that off the crank pulley/sump? Seems like alot. I can't remember what the last rotary I mounted ended up being with the carb level tbh.

Post up a rough/close enough angle of the rear shaft when you get a chance. I'l calc it how it currently sits and see what the pinion ends up at.

Is that laid out or at ride height?

What angle is the 2nd shaft on?

Most of the online diagrams go out the window with bagged stuff because they are geared toward the pinion being far lower than the output shaft on trans.

Spicer has a good angle calc.

5 hours ago, hood said:

Thanks Clint, that makes sense.

Yeah I'll go with a wrecker if it's a last resort

Go take a marketplace Hilux for a test drive and switch them out. Thats what Billy T would do.

Work Meister Wednesday.

The qd32 is just a newer big brother to the td27. Bellhousing patterns are the same and a bunch of other parts like the manifolds are interchangeable so its possible the heads are the same or similar.

The 'Td27 Torque' facebook page is a wealth of knowledge so chuck up a post on there.