two_days_late

haha yea... auto shaft... sure it is. my mistake, should learn to read. sorry

learn somethin every day maybe its for the flux capasitor...

just tried it and theres no way in hell thats gona fit on there. were taking about a 1600 escort drive shaft and a sierra 5 speed box right? as you can see the bit on the gearbox is way to big and the spines are totally differnt

im goin out to the shed now to try it. haha

havent done honda ones specificly man but would be pretty much the same with any japa seats. just get some boxing from industrial supplies, think of how to bolt the seat to the boxing and then bolt the boxing straight to the floor. heres a pic of how i did mine

wouldnt it be for the vacuum advance on the dizzy?

the sierra gearbox is a few inches longer than the origonal escort 4 speed. i have a single piece escort driveshaft and a sierra box ready to go in my esky and the splines are NOT the same. im gona have to mod a sierra driveshaft, or apparently a cortina one can fit. either way its not a straight swap. some people say that the box doesnt fit properly in a manuel gearbox tunnel and it needs to be beaten out a bit and the auto ones better, but i had an auto escort converted to just a 4 speed manual and as the tunnel was a lot bigger the clutch peddal was almost rubbing on the tunnel and my foot was always when clutching. was really annoying. cheers Matt

get a 2 litre coke bottle, half fill it with water, then hold the neck of the coke bottle so its submerged in the water just under your radiator cap, leave it there for a while and all the shit floats out into the bottle. might work better if you quickly start and stop the car. dunno just what im told works. east coast styles.

haha sweet. be better of puttin in a manual!

might wana have a read of this bro https://www.burtonpower.com/technical/tt_camshaft.html cheers Matt

i was under the impression your not meant to change the cams in autos? im sure i read that in the burton catalogue

was lookin at $300 for the motor and gearbox together. i think my cousins pretty keen on it but if he doesnt want it i'll let you know. if i sell seperate you can have the motor for $300 and you can take the gearbox for nothin if you come and get. ill let you guys know and try get some pics. im comin back to welly next friday but ill be on the bus so dont think ill be able to drop it off haha. ps. motors standard but with extractors

how far away from gisborne are you? ill sell you a 1600 with a cortina gearbox

oh yep that sounds good. do the newer hilux's have discs on the back? i was hoping to go for 4 wheel discs. and whats the story with the B2000 diffs? i was hoping to get somethin a little cheaper

hey methodz have you got any info of the process of using a newer hilux diff? was it very hard to do, did you have to get it shortened? cheers

im lookin for a diff for my esky. ideally i'd like somethin thats LSD and already has disk brakes on it, but realistically this probably wont happen. what Diffs are people runnin in their escorts. thoughts.

theres a little plastic or rubber plug in the bottom of the spare wheel well. you can just pull it out and leave it out then water doesnt build up in there, so it prevents rust

sweet as, i know the guy that wrote it sounds like someone off an infomercial but it works really well.

Fed up with bashing your knuckles on the dashboard of your kit car, or with knocking your elbow on the handbrake? Do you render your passenger unconscious every time you select reverse - you need a quickshift! . But hold on, are you not keen to pay 25-70 pounds for a quickshift? Why not make your own. Materials required 3 M10 nuts (not nylocks) as spacers (7mm thick) 3 M8 x 25mm bolts Use of a vice, or two blocks of wood/bricks A small amount of araldite or car body filler A quickshift for the Ford 4 and 5 speed boxes works by moving the fulcrum point of the gear lever upwards, thereby decreasing the lever advantage of the lever and therefore shortening its throw. Inevitably this means that the lever action will be heavier than standard, so be prepared to accept this. The quickshift kits that you can buy for 25-30 pounds simply adapt the standard lever, but in my opinion, they move the fulcrum too high and ruin the quality of the change, which with Ford gearboxes is usually very good. First off there is nothing intrinsically wrong with the standard gear lever unless the rubber mount is knackered. If it is, throw it away and get another lever from a scrapyard (mine cost £2). To convert the standard gear lever you must first remove it and clean it with a degreaser such as Jizer, so that all the working surfaces are clean, any build up of grease, or other ****e must be removed. Test the motion of the gearlever when removed and cleaned through every plane to ensure that it is smooth and easy. If it is not then investigate why, it may be that the ball joint is pitted, scratched or damaged, if it is then obtain an undamaged one from a scrapyard. The way the lever is converted is to move the plastic sphere which acts as a ball joint 7mm or so further up the lever, and to space the lever attachment flange by the same amount. This should shorten the throw of the lever by about 25 percent. To modify the lever, place the lever with the linkage downwards on the top of a vice with the linkage between the jaws and with the bottom of the plastic sphere resting on the jaws of the vice either side. The jaws of the vice need to be 20-25mm apart. Ensure that the sphere is level on the jaws (the lever will be angled as it is when the lever is in neutral). Tap down on the top of the lever smartly. This should drive the lever down through the ball joint; keep tapping until the sphere has moved by about 7mm. If you go too far, turn the lever upside down, open the jaws of the vice and place the mount flange on the jaws with the lever down between them, tap gently until the position is restored. When this is done, using the 3 M10 nuts as spacers (and longer m8 bolts!) re-attach the lever to the gearbox mounting and try the gearchange. It may be stiff into the reverse gate or across the normal gate; this is because moving the fulcrum has also put increased tension on the rubber spring. To release this tension, simply trim about 5mm from the top of the rubber spring where it meets the retaining collar at the top of the lever ball joint. Standard Gearlever before modification If you have difficulty engaging gears following modification then it is likely that the distance the sphere has moved on the lever is different from the distance spaced at the flange, so check this is OK. If reverse has no distinct 'gate' then it is likely that the spacing between the flanges is not enough, or the sphere has been pushed too far up the lever. If on the other hand reverse is very difficult to engage even after trimming the spring then either the spacing is too great or the sphere has not been pushed up the lever enough. If the lever action is still too long, the sphere may be moved further up the lever provided that the amount moved matches the thickness of the spacers used between the flange on the gearbox and the flange on the lever. When you are happy with the gearchange, use Araldite or similar to fill the gap in the underside of the lever between the sphere and the lever, ensure that the surfaces are clean before applying. When the lever is perfect, lubricate the metal part of the linkage with moly grease, and the plastic ball joint with a small dab of grease or EP90 gearbox oil, make sure it is properly lubricated, including under the plastic shield below the rubber spring. Gearlever After Modification If experience of using the gearchange shows that it still has too much movement or not enough then the ball joint and spacing can be varied too suit. Approximate cost - less than 1 pound.[/img]

hey, i'll go try dig out those plans now, i found them on the net so i know there around somewhere. as RT said, it probably will be better to make a new plate, but if you cant be botherd muckin round then this works sweet. cheers Matt

found it easier just to raise the original plate

bro, persuming that youve got the normal sierra 5 speed its easy as to make a quick shift for, i'll find the plans when im home then send them too you. all you need is 3 nuts and 3 bolts plus some silicon to seal it up. you take off the plate where the stick goes into, theres 3 bolts, think you'll need a star drive to get them off,then you put some nuts underneath it to raise the plate up and bolt it back together with some longer bolts then just jam silicone around the gap so shit doesnt get into it.

just buy my seats bro, already got the escort rails sorted http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1902

hey i had the same kinda thing happen once on one of my cars, it was the vacuum advance, i ended up just disconecting the vacum hose between the carb and dizzy and it went sweet as but it would run on. if you try pulling that off and it run then there could be a leak in the vacuum somewhere cheers Matt

theres a good chance its the hanger bearing on the centre of your driveshaft, same thing happened to me, needed a new rubber and stuff, seemed to fix it. cheers Matt