R100

Getting it ready to be loaded up and dropped off to get the chassis straightened.

Seen those electric kits and was like yeah nah. Looks like a problems. But it seems a few people use them. Ideally i want to fit a standard type power steering rack.

Discuss/ Laugh > //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/54010-r100s-1977-ford-escort-van-thing/

Build thread here > //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53906-r100s-1977-ford-escort-van/ The owner wants power steering installed. Anyone know of a suitable rack that might work ?

Customer decided on the new engine. 3800 V6 with 5 speed manual. We had debated for quite a while what engine to fit bt the choice has been made. Engine placed in engine bay to sort out shifter location.

You need a bigger garage. Hope your building that thing to LVVC standard

Started chopping and cutting away at the damaged panels. Big job really as nothing unbolts on this thing. Only everything is welded. New nose cut from Ageing Auto Spares in Takanini

How it looks after the crash and 27 years of hibernation

Well its not actually mine but a vehicle my shop is building up for a customer. Purchased new by its current owner in 1977 Customised in the very early 80's, see the picture below with over 1000 hours spent on it. All steel body and body kit. Commodore tail lights BD 323 nose cone. Worked 2 liter cortina engine with twin 40mm webers 13x8 and 14x10 Thompson performance alloys. Not long after if was built and after recieving a few trophies and appearing as a feature car in nz hot rod magazine it was crashed. It has been sitting in the owners shed for the past 27 years. Now i have the task to get it back on the road. Plans include bringing it back to the way it looked in the photo New set of tires. New engine. New diff and brakes New paint.

Any of you fullas been down the route of motorcycle certification in regards to building a custom hard tail ? Bike in mind is a 2016 Royal Enfield 500. Im talking about chopping off the rear section to fabricate a hard tail.

Used to have one of these. Mine had the roof lifted, was done prior to me purchasing it. Although it was done professionally i couldn't get a wof as they wanted to roof certed. With this and the fact it only had about 80hp (3.3 diesel) and was geared for city driving 90kmh max speed i sold it. Had big dreams for it though.

Picture below is the standard 4x4 Safari Sump If i cut 6cm out of the bowl part this will bring it inline with the very bottom of the bell-housing. No parts of the engine/sump or transmission sump will sit below the front cross-member. These engines take 10 to 11 liters of oil including filters. Since i wont be doing any 4 wheel driving or climbing 45 degree slopes i should be fine.

After lifting the body off and on a few times i finally have the engine sitting almost where i want it. Front pulley sits more or less in the same place as the original TD27. I have used a Safari bellhousing bolted to a 300ZX TT auto box.

Ive been given the unlucky job of fitting a 351 Cleveland into a 1965 Ford Ranchero. The engine bay is more or less the same as a 1965 Mustang. The Rachero came factory with a Windsor and the Cleveland is much wider. The Cleveland bolts in ok but getting the headers to fit is not ging to happen unless i mod the shock towers. This is common thing do to but in merica but what is usually done here in NZ to pass a cert ? Pics stolen from the net showing cut shock towers.

Any rotary conversion is going to cost you a heap of cash. You will have to upgrade your diff as well. Because the van is so short and your limited to space under the seats the only thing with any decent grunt that will fit will be a rotary. You can always mount something behind the seats but then the drive shaft is too short so your going to have to fit a independent rear. How about drop a subaru engine and box in it. You could space the engine from the box to make the engine more mid mounted.

Cheers ears. That all makes sense to me when explained like that.

From my understanding if i get it running with no electronics i should have second and third only ? If thats the case 1st can be on a button and so can 4th (overdrive) as there's already a button on the factory terrano shifter for this. Always hard to find any good information when your building random weird shit.

TD42's in everything i say. As much as i would love a manual i felt as though i really needed something decent behind the TD42 and no W series or Nissan "big box" would cut it. The safari/patrol 5 speed FS5R50A boxes are more or less a truck gearbox. Not only are they friggin huge, they are very hard to find in RWD format. Even then they are a remote shifted box as used on a Civilian bus. The standard Safari, Patrol, Civilian auto trans is a RE4R03A with a 4WD transfer box bolted to it. Im using a RE4R03A from a 300ZX (VG30DETT) bolted to a standard TD42 bellhousing. Its semi electronic so i will need to do some electronic trickery to make it work correctly. Should tow pretty mean once completed.

800mm front front pulley/water pump to where bellhousing bolts up.

Bit of an update. I decided on a TD42 Turbo for maximum torks. Engines quite long so one of the cylinders bobs up and down under the dash. Will chuck some better pics up next week or something.

If you ever want to check if a car still has live rego go to https://transact.nzta.govt.nz/transactions/NoticeOfAcquisition/entry and fill out step 1 and 2. If the cars rego has been cancelled it will come up with an error. If its still live it will bring up the vehicles details. And its free.

I also got rid of the PPF on my old mx5.

Whats the best way to do a drive-shaft loop on an MX5 ? Anyone done one or a series 6/7 RX7 Im guessing you just could just use a bit of flat bar and bend it around and attach to the PPF ? Cheers

So wanted to go to this but no spare cash to buy anything.