zep

1 hour ago, mjrstar said:

Later model falcon could be worth a look? 

What year you thinking?

Cheers all. Might hit up Pick a Part on the weekend and see if there's anything I like the look of.

Are all pedals essentially the same? They are mostly 6 wire, right?

If so, essentially I could just go to pick a part and grab any one that I liked the look of.

The VE pedal looks way easier to mount than the nissan one.

Thanks. I'll see what I can do.

24 minutes ago, vk327 said:

check out these 

https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectID=90387&ViewAction=FacetedSearchProducts&SearchString=throttle+body&SearchButton=

 

https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/SENBOSPED

 

link  will run damn near any combo just need to  setup the calibration for the sensors,  some subaru/ nissan pedal  sensors are  a lever arm type so can adapt a standard pedal if needed

 

LS commodore stuff is pretty cheap too, I can get VE commodore pedal for about $90 new (similar mounting to the MSEL one) heaps of throttles available in various sizes

Yeah, I'd be happy to buy the bosch stuff, just seeing if it's possible to keep the costs down. What are the ve commodore pedals like?

As for the 350z stuff, it seems like it's only  a hundred more to get new bosch stuff, warranty and all.

4 minutes ago, M.H. said:

What size throttle body do you need? Vw pedals are easy to mount and the throttle bodys come in various sizes

I'm looking at 65-70mm, or b there abouts.  I do have to say that the bosch and 350z tbs look quite nice compared to some others :/

Hey all, I'm looking to purchase a drive by wire pedal assembly and throttle body. Just wondering about opinions on these options. Will be most probably using a link g4x fury.

350z pedal and tb, used at $350+gst - link lists this tb as one they "support"

Bosch Motorsport pedal and tb,  about $500+gst

A mixture of the above?

Or I can probably get a cheap pedal from something at pick a part. I've heard subarus are good, any other options?

Cheers

4 hours ago, cletus said:

A head rest doesnt have to be part of the seat, it could be attached to something else, it is reasonably common for hot rods to have them attached to things like the roll bar or to the body  

Do you have any examples of this?  Could that just be roll Cage foam?

16 hours ago, KKtrips said:

If you have anything hard within 300mm of the back of the seat then yes you will need a headrest, I suspect the cage will be your nemesis.

Ah yep. I imagine even the b pillar would be within 300mm. There are a severe lack of new retro inspired buckets that look good.

I'm quite keen on these new Sparco Stradale seats for "oldschool aplications". Issue is that they have no head rest. Is this going to cause an issue?

For reference, my current Racepro seats are 810mm on the F dimensions.

Here's the only pic of them in a car (Datsun 510) that I can find:

Way off topic bro, this is not a v8, or a drag car, and it's GM man. Shieeet!

I reckon I'm just going to go directly above and below the axle centre. The largest spread I can do at the diff without fouling on things. Then try get the IC around the flywheel on the anti-squat line with the arms as parallel as possible, potentially moving the upper chassis side down 2mm for every 1mm the lower arm goes up. If I keep enough holes either side, I should have enough room to tune it.

10 minutes ago, westy said:

Not much to add ‘cept I reckon a Watts linkage is far betterer than a panhard rod. And if ya going to the trouble of 4 linking ya might as well add a Watts. 

Yeah, I thought about it. Will look into that a bit more.

Otherwise thanks everyone, I'm more confused about what to do now

Does the distance between the upper and lower arm make a difference? Or where they are in relation to the axle centre?

Ah right. And as the bars shorten it pulls that side of the diff in an arc towards the front of the car, effectively steering with the rear.

I think I need to figure out my travel next - can't imagine it's heaps though!

I'll check out the 3 link version.

Here's where I'm at... kinda. That's with parallel lower arms. Nothing there for the roll, I think I'm missing something in another tab.

I'm using the the "4 link calculator with suspension travel" Excel 2007 one here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/4-link-and-3-link-suspension-calculators.18592/

When I first got started with this, I measured how low the mount would need to be from the axle centre to make parallel lower arms that bolt directly into the stock chassis trailing arm mount - answer: it was MUCH lower than the 2.5" drop suggested in the Escort manual. More like 3.5-4" from the axle centre. I guess what I'm trying to say, is that I have plenty of room to slope down towards the diff if I'm remaking the mounts at both ends.

I will also be developing this with the car in it's already lowered state, so it should stay pretty much where it is.

Although I'm not sure why it's harder to run the lower bars up to the chassis, rather than parallel. Surely going up is better for clearance (assuming you making all the mounts in the locations you want).

I need to do some more reading up about roll steer, etc. This setup will have a panhard rod. In the end, this is a street car and I'm more interested in putting down power out of corners on the back roads than doing a 10.

On 19/03/2021 at 20:54, kpr said:

whats the name of the calculator are you using?  I used one that runs in excel  when done the hilux.   was good.    

There will always  be a bit of a compromise  due to packaging and the likes.  so don't get too worried if you cant get it bang on as to what the calculator spits out.   if you look at some  factory stuff a lot of it isn't textbook. 

 

It's just an excel one that I found somewhere.

Yeah, it seems like half the internet is saying, just put something together, it'll most probably work VS 1mm difference and there will be DRASTIC changes to the handling.

Thanks Tom.

The 4 link was always something that I wanted to do. The ladder bar was just the easiest and most cost effective method to get the diff in at the time. Also, Clint came by for a chat about a few other cert things and mentioned that my current setup would not be certifiable these days. It's to do with all the forces trying to pull and push the single joint at the chassis up and down.

I've read that the best thing to do is to try get the IC to lie on the anti squat line. Unfortunately, getting an accurate line is difficult as measuring the CG height is not easy without a good industrial scale.

If I angle the top bar down, it's there an optimal height or should mount above the lower bar at the chassis end? Because the car is relatively short wheelbase, getting the IC inside the wheelbase would mean quite a steep downward angle. If the upper bar is left longer it would end up very close to the lower mounting point, bringing the movement closer back to a ladder bar, wouldn't it?

I'll have another play around with my 4 link calculator. Haven't managed to find a metric one yet though!

I am working on figuring out how to 4-link my Gemini and I need some guidance around arm lengths and angles.

I'm basing it off the Escort Rally prep manual as the Gemini and Mk2 Escort share the same wheelbase. In this, they run 23" arms, mounted 2.5" from the axle centre, both parallel with the ground.

I am aware that the length and angles of the arms can have significant affect on anti-squat and roll steer. At the moment, I've designed it as seen below:

620mm is the stock length of the Gemini lower trailing arm mounting point to the axle centre, 127mm is the same as the Escort setup.

However, I have read varying warnings about running the bar angles every which way. Both parallel; lower parallel, top angled down; bottom angled up, top angled down; etc. And then some people run different length bars, or the bars mounted forward or rearward of the axle centre. There is a lot to think about.

I've worked out that if I run the lower parallel and the top angled down 25mm at the front or 2.346°, I'll get a figure of 30% anti-squat and the IC will be about 500mm in front of the front wheel. I don't know exactly where the centre of gravity line runs in the car, but after playing around with a 4-link calculator I'm struggling to get the IC inside the car without some quite funky arm angles.

Bear in mind, this is not a drag car looking for that 1/10th of a second grip off the line, so I'm not overly concerned with some squat to get grip.

I guess what I'm asking is - and I know every car is different - what would you do? The Escort seems to be pretty well proven, although it is a rally car. Just allow my self enough adjustability to make any changes I might need to?

On 23/02/2021 at 22:19, Testament said:

defo this

R888 225/45/14 are actually about 245mm wide, I don't imagine 15's would be much different

I wonder, then, if the 205s are about 225mm wide. That could be an option...

34 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

your list appears to be missing 'Goodride'  ?

 

Go on- live on the edge

You know you should back out when the company's slogan is "good luck with your ride"

I'm waiting on a quote from a hookup for R888Rs and R1Rs, as well as any other 225 r15 semislick he can get.

If I can get the R1R for a good price, I wonder if that is a good option...