Dudley

Anyone done a diy post flow adjuster set up on there mig?

inhave the boc smooth arc 180 and it wastes so much gas when welding panel steel. The welder has zero adjustment for that. 

I have fortune auto stuff through mrp.

coilovers are nice but I found Barry hard to deal with.

Yea cause I made em

Let’s clarify things. My arms are the bottom ones

Is that kamei lip of a ke35? Or off something else? @1vaknd

You mean kamo to maungakaramea haha 

Tang and add extra springs maybe?

Hey buddy can you please keep your comments to the discussion thread. Bloody starlet people

Alright let’s see those questionable modifications. Featuring @ajg193 signature lift kit  

3 hours ago, MRWEST said:

Can measure tonight for you @Dudley if i remember ! 

While your measuring that would you be able to also measure the pcd of the top hat bolt spacing haha

Anyone know what the od of rx3/808 struts are?

Epiphos will protect bare steel if inside until panel work is done. And then clean it off properly and epoxy the steel

Sounds like you need a 4k with a 3/4 race cam to achieve these goals

I think that’s what he was talking about.

will look into finding some cheers for that.

He just showed me a picture on the Lvvta book. I’m just struggling to find them online to buy

The local cert guy wants us to put “tube nuts” in as the upper seatbelt mounts. When I google them I can’t find anything. Does anyone have a link for something similar? 

So I have a ke20 with a leaf spring rear. It has 50mm blocks and I’m going to reset the leafs so it will have 70mm drop over all. I will only have about 25mm travel between the diff and the bumpstop in the driveshaft tunnel. Will this fail cert?

6 hours ago, Stu said:

Does it do jumps

Well theres only one way to find out mark

Probably lost a few kws when you removed that sticker though?

8 hours ago, kpr said:

Turns out it still had the og shocks in the struts.       pulled  one of them apart.  found they have a  stopper on shaft to limit extension travel.    chopped that off and welded it back on 40mm lower.  did some super janky shaft re-polish.  they were leaky anyway so whats a bit more.   also "machined"   the little spacer plate on compression side of shocks. to effectively make  bleed holes on compression side smaller.   so  will have who knows how much more compression dampening,  along with 40mm more droop for those hectic  jumps. 

I want to add a second shock on the rear that only starts working at  last 1/3 or so travel.  so its like some kinda amazing redneck hillbilly   bypass shock  

Looks like player two has entered the game with space x on launching gc to the moon.....