shizzl

do you think he'd be keen for a cashy? itll be sort of mid winter-end of winter before ill need it done..

cool thanks man ill give them a call..

hey guys... wanna know what the guff is on shortening IRS rear end axles.. does anyone know of any places in chch that can shorten one axle and lengthen another??? had a thought to run a independent rear end in my new stockcar,most likely using a skyline/supra/rx7 diff,whichever will be stronger.. will make my own A arms etc.solid mounted diff head would be good for the driveshaft as itll be real short,like a foot long so dont want it to move up and down much,and itll allow for my seat to sit lower due to the diff head not having to move upwards at all.. plus id be able to crank in camber if needed..sure itll be weaker than a solid diff,but much easier in the end.... MACKAZ i expect to hear some feedback on your thoughts

got it sorted...just got some shocks similar length... cheap as.. just need to find someone who stocks 5/8s rose joints,male end..

my old cortina blew white smoke and ran like shite with a blown headgasket,didnt use much oil or water...so i traded it in on a newer car

^^ thats what i was gonna say,could also give a hint to the miss,water on the plugs??? what is the colour of your oil?milky? any oil in your radiator? does it use water/oil?

cheers for that cam..... saves buying some and finding out theyr not right ?????

just one eye with rubber bush at the bottom.. the one on the other side is from a suzuki escudo,its written on it in white marker,its alot shorter. so maybe a hilux rear shock??

on my stockcar i have toyota kyb shocks in the front.. the numbers on them are se06 48531-28250 theyr 600mm fully extended,and roughly 300/320mm closed. need to know what theyr off. i need new ones after my 2 meetings at cromwell. met the wall a few times thanks to 2 dunedin cars..

so ive been thinking alot about starting to build my own flat chassis...so ive done a shiz load of drawings,mostly to scale (1:20).. i based it on the dimensions of my current chassis,but will end up changing it i guess. but i drafted a plan onto paper to scale and decided to construct one out of some balsa wood i had. the balsa isnt to scale though..the 5mm should be 75x75 in real form,the rollcage is way oversized,but you get the pont of what im thinking of anyway.. havent done anything in the way of a front end or diff,as yet... havent decide if id go IRS or offset or keep it centred. front i cant decide to stick to the 5 linked beam,or independent or with cantilever... heaps of options,and all with their own pros and cons.. i personally prefer the flat chassis to the space frame as they come out better off in teams races and general furk them up racing..sure you feel the hits more,but ill be going for a cushy seat.. the plan is build the new chassis in winter and sell my current one as a roller.. looking for options for a jap gearbox instead of using a zf bedford box/hq box or landcruiser...theyr all getting hard to get and damn expensive..

right so it wont start again....wont even backfire this time... so fukt off right now.. its got lots of spark...fuel to africa,but wont fire... so no west coast champs for me today,or any racing till next year... anyone wanna buy it?????seriously im over it now...

full on backyadigan styles.. need to sort out the pressure plate....ill get a pro bellhousing when i build my new car in winter..

thats the friction plate part of the pressure plate.. problem is it wont go into gear while its stationary and running,if i turn it off it will go into gear,then start it and it will idle with the clutch in at a stand stall..so its a pressure plate issue... just need to find out what the plate is actually off as the clutch plate is a bedford unit... engine is in the car not on a bench..

only 3 holes for the pressure plate... the clutch plate itself was not aligned right aswell which i had a suspicion anyway. its not the release bearing,thats works fine,its the damn pressure plate... see if this pic makes sense....

found out my clutch problem... my clutch plate on one side is 23.5mm and the other is 24mm.. the issue seems to be when the pres plate is bolted on its squashing the clutch plate too much that the release fingers(????) are flat...so when you go to put the clutch in its not doing anything due to having no travel left... the pres plate is a 3 bolt jobby....falcon-zf... what the hell do i do now? the only thing i can think of is to space the pres plate,but its not a good idea... any suggestions???

common prob with coilovers,theyr mainly for stiffness rather than height adjust..most youll probably get out of a coil over with a single spring would be 30-40mm drop.. to get it sacked you need keeper springs so you can wind all the tension off the spring... which basically means the shock has already travelled most of its availability.. best thing to do is to get shorter shocks and keeper springs..

not yet....i can get new modules for $50..will get myself a whole spare ign set,cap,rotor,module and leads for xmas still need tyres though...ill be going 15" all round,wanna change to l200 hubs on the front for 6 studness,and keep the l200 5 studders as spares..

dont they work on a pulse?so the higher impedance the larger the pulse= more fuel? i have no idea,just throwing my 2c in there...

ive got a hydraulic release bearing so if the plate is out abit the "bearing" will cock off to the side a fraction and wont allow it to work properly.. plus i wanna check the plate anyway.. but its a real c---t to get into gear on a standstall,but from a rolling start its fine,and once its in gear you can sit there with the clutch engaged fine but its labouring a bit... just wanna get it all buttoned down for the champs this weekend..

so,after taking the dizzy to pieces,and a whole can of crc and a can of valvoline something,abit of a shuffle with plugs,and fiddle with some wires,more crc,lots of colourful language,hammer holes in walls,and a recharge of the battery,its finally fukn started.... on my lunch break(work is 2min away) i poured on the crc.. let it dry a bit.... went to go back to work and just thought id give it one more go.. started cranking without the backfiring and it tried to burst into life,so i pumped some gas into the carby,normal start procedure,and funny enough she fired up...tell ya what,a falcon 4l race motor in a closed garage will make even the holden fans gets a hard on... totally stoked.. now im going to take the box out and check the clutch and realign it,im sure its out of alignment and stopping the throw out bearing to work properly,or at all.... thanks MACKAZ for ya help....

nah the button moves freely.. its the rotor im all ????? about... oh wait,brain malfunction.....i see now... anywho heres a pic of the rotor for shits n giggles

looking into the shaft of the rotor theres a metal strip running up the back of it,but theres no visible was for the power to transfer to the metal strip on the top of the rotor.... make sense? something missing?

well its been about 5 weeks since it was last run.... ill get out the crc and go nuts.

think i might just pull the dizzy out and beat it with a hammer.. or tip it up too see if anything falls out surely the module is a self insulated unit??????

now that i think about the last time it got used was when the radiator exploded its guts all over the place,so likely that it got soaked? the module is only covered by a half arsed attempt at a cover... ie the stock little metal cover,definately not water tight...