shizzl

My biggest issue now is choosing a colour. dont really want to do this twice. got a suggestion? Let me know.

Not completely set on them. I wanted to get it set for 19s so I have that option. would need to find a perfect 15 now that it’s all 5 stud. I do like that the 15s drops its nuts into the weeds

I got a message from the guy I co-drive for, I’m gonna drop it off to him in ngatea. completely forgot he has a panel shop. better done by someone you know

I started playing with the lightning spaghetti, I hate it. I despise electrical work. so I gave up for now. but today I had some alloy sheet laying round so decided to make a rear cab panel so that it’s flat and can be easily upholstered. I will also mount the fuse panel and other electrical bs on this behind the passengers seat. then I made a face plate for the dash cluster to bond to the original. This will allow for the triple 2” gauges to fit better than hot glue and mangled plastic. this will only be a temporary solution as I’ll probably change the dash set up later on once it’s in the road. now I’ve been having all the drama trying to find someone to paint it and some minor finishing (one body line needs a bit of fine tuning and a couple of gaps sorted.).

Yup, just get new plates from VTNZ. i put my p plates onto my work vans. get some funny looks at times, people often ask what’s with the plates. both hoaxes are RX3UTE and 808UTE can’t be bothered sorting them yet

Only for rocker switch installation? I might have to rethink my plan then, should be able to get some pretty easy

Hey, is that a challenge? I’ve never been a fan of missile switches on road cars unless equipped with actual missiles

Bit of an electrical controls question. can lights and indicators etc be operated from a switch panel set up on a normal road car? I know rally cars have gang panels for everything. But how does it play out for a road car?

Got my water piping all sorted. got TBL to bend up some stainless tubing to match up to the Franklin performance kit and EWP. just need some nice joiners now. got my oil line fittings , but they forgot to send out the 2nd 180, so that’s a job that won’t be done til next week, dang. also finished off the drivers seat mount. Added in crush tubes to all mounting points. will sort the passengers side over the weekend and make the doubler plates. I also picked up a pair of FC RX7 rear calipers today f RT on Ryan at Sprint RE, even got the cables with them and adaptor plates (although for a hilux), just need pads. the adaptor plates are so close to being a perfect fit to the b1600 diff too. But it gives me something to work from anyway.

Non rotary? wtf!!! both are rotary haha i have a rebuilt 12at block sitting under my bench, it has a microtech and injection perfection intake. But needs injectors. rx3ute may end up bagged yet, we’ll see. the bonus is that the front end will bolt onto both utes anyway.

Thanks. have been forwarded many similar messages from young fan boys from back in the day. pretty crazy really

I was pretty surprised at how good they were for what I paid compared to the Strata or my previous Unimigs

All of my stuff gets sent to an outfit in Nelson. my Strata does that, has done from day one. Really boils my blood, so it’s parked in the corner until I can be bothered playing with it. May just need a new liner. my xcel arc has been a great unit, mainly for my Ali spool gun. throws flux like a champ. my normal fault has always been too high of a wire speed.

Not wanting to blow my own horn or anything, but I posted the 2 colour pics above to a b1600 page on fb the other day. shits blown up… it’s been shared all over the show, got 1000 likes and have received many PMs about it. don’t even recall seeing a single negative comment. definitely helped with the motivation

Pretty much sorted the oil line dilemma. i will run a 180 off the front cover to a 100mm of hose to another 180 to get the hose to return to the cooler with a 90. everywhere is too tight to run a continuous hose. This route I believe will offer flex when needed. then I set about my list of stuff I wanted to try and tick off today. got the seat base mounts fitted (ready for the next step). then fitted the second 5 stud axle and front hub on the left side. She’s full 5 stud now. fitted the fuel tank and fuel pump. then started getting some final mock up of factory stuff (heater box, wiper motor assembly, dash panels). this way I can sort the wiring out. discovered that I need to swap the steering boxes over as the one in it is too long to run the steering wheel with the column cover. also mounted the park brake lever, decided to keep the factory unit as it’s ready to go, saves faffing about. now that the heater box and park brake is in, I can now design the centre console. ive had an upholsterer pop by to go over the design, just waiting on pricing now. measured the accelerator cable and speedo cable to get remade. marked out the shifter hole for the 12a turbo box. Then chucked the bonnet, grille and light surrounds on for a photo. loving it, but I do need to lift the front 15-20mm.

Aaahh Rodger.. will check out which option will work best tomorrow

FDs had twin coolers ae. Should’ve gone that route. don’t think this cooler can be flipped, it’s all custom unlike the generic offshore sourced stuff. i will be doing a Franklin Performance order soon for the pulley kit, so will get the pedestal adaptor aswell. if I can get the hose to bend nicely on the drivers side to use a 180, I’ll go that way. Otherwise I have a couple of other ideas to think about.

I don’t have one on hand to try. Don’t know anyone who would have one. Would likely need to be a RX3 hose, rx7 I think was much further from the engine. the npt adaptor is for my oil pressure sender. This is where sprint re had it on the Hunter. there are the factory ports on the rear plate which they plugged. can’t remember which one is what. upper may be water and lower oil? im thinking of trying out a 180 off the front cover then see if a hose will take the bend near the drivers chassis rail, and back to the cooler with a 90.

If I could loop it I’d stick with the straight hose ends. It’s radius that’s the issue. running -10an hose the radius is something like 7-8” , I need it close to half of that

A what?

If it take it straight out, I just can’t get enough flex from a hose to make that 90 degree turn. im out of ideas really. what about a straight off the front cover and cooler, with a 90 degree hose fitting to make the turn in front of the alternator? Not what I’d like to see but yeah, out of ideas

Ha!!! Success, kind of. ive been having issues with the Franklin performance side mount alt kit, it sat too low and only just cleared the chassis rail. with the alternator in that position, I couldn’t run the oil line to the rear plate. only option is to go up and over. Nope, not keen. so, I spent about too long deciding on how to move the alternator up and out a bit. first bracket was Pooh’s, it fit but because the mounting point was on an angle, it meant that belt tension was reduced. so I had to stand the alternator up to get more out of every mm of tensioner travel. so I fizzed on an extension to the original mock up. it was actually perfect as it brought the alternator back inline with the crank pulley. no I only need to sort the rear bracing piece for the lower mount and trim down the top of the custom plate. ill run it, I ain’t scared. It’ll get powdercoated. Win. i also had to wizard up the oil line geometries, ugh. the original fittings I had from the hunter had 30 degree hose ends. Didn’t work. today I grabbed a 45, this pulled it almost inline with a short hose piece. will need another 45 to line them up. this set up also has a npt adaptor inline for the pressure sensor. im hoping that this short of a hose will be ok. the rear line ends up with 2 x 90s to have it jog up and over the chassis rail and under the alternator. I had ordered new black hose which arrives tomorrow. well, that’s enough winning for the day

Much less hi. she got told. for this I used rear kings out of a VK commodore.

Too much hi, get down now!!!