shizzl

I’m a total noob with efi and conversions. need info on what I should be doing for this efi fuel system for the 4age swap . I only have a low pressure line and pump on the car at the moment. im guessing that line can be used for the return line. do I need to use a surge tank or would it be fine directly from the tank with an inline efi pump?

Wow, I remember this thread . that van went well for an old girl. I ended up replacing the motor for a good ld28 and kept the turbo on it, rolled coal at 13psi. sold it to my sister lol. Diesel is just not worth the $ and the slowness now

My phone is gay and won’t download anything. cheers Clint

Is it legal to have a small surge tank with internal pump mounted in the engine bay?

The hunter is now a dedicated 4age homie.. mounts are finished. Gearbox mount is a bit meh looking. May upgrade that prior to cert. It’s definitely strong enough and functional, just not overly good looking like myself haha. now that the mounts are done, I can rip the motor back out, remove the battery tray as it’s too close to the intake. then I can prep the motor for refitting (fit the water rail, clutch, put the engine on a stand so I can pull the sump and prime the oil pump etc, refit intake with injection etc). not too sure how these things go cooling wise, so I’ll be running a mint (near new) hunter radiator for now with a thermo fan and thermostatic switch. surprisingly the rx7 speedo cable fits right into the T50 box, so that’s already sorted.

12a be gone, 4age be in. getting this fully mounted is simple work with a little bit of fizzinometry aided by the welder. driveshaft is in. Exhaust will be a short link pipe from the headers to the main zorst. Headers are 2” out, zorst is 2.5” with 2 resonators and dumpy. gearstick lines right up with where the 12a poked up, mint. parts I know I need for this now is: clutch slave and rod, fuel pump and surge tank, sandwhich plate- I have the wrong one with the fork and starter on the same side, then sorted the wiring side of it yay not. @Stu has made my loom super tidy, but I’ll get the sparky 2 doors down from my shop to wire it all in correctly. 12a is queued up to go into the Ute. It can wait till I figure what is causing the clutch issue. looked over the Ute briefly, only one small patch of rust to do in the passengers foot well. Tidy up a couple of pieces on the deck and it’s ready to paint haha. even had the MA 1600 running.

Ye old girl got another stable mate today. aka the new home of the 12a j the guy who delivered it from chch was a mx5 guru, and has schooled me in the ways of biffing the gtx motor into the race hunter.. he also put bad thoughts of a whole mx5 subframe in the front, maybe in the back too??? ute- 12a j port green hunter- 4age race hunter- gtx 1800 turbo, 6 speed box. I’ll start a build thread on the Ute once I start on it. Focus on greeny first of all

Yeah I know. However the plan for the 12a is going to a good cause , the rebirth of RX3UTE.. I feel the 4age plan is a better one for this car and what I plan to do with it. just casual cruising.

After much faffing about trying to figure out this drive issue, I have made an executive decision to pull the 12a out, and put the 4age into this car. for a couple of reasons: 1:) my new neighbours will appreciate the 4age over the 12a 2:) should be happier on the standard diff 3:) the 12a is going into a revival vehicle worthy of such rowdiness 4:) I’m over the bloody thing at the moment so yeah, that’s the go I think

Yes correct. but I have noticed that the clutch fork has no free play now. it will all be coming out of the car in the next week or so. any video will just show it running, wheel start to move then it all stalls out

What about a floor pan that dictates where lines are run? ie my hunter doesn’t have “chassis rails” as such between the front rails and rear rails. So around 1m of flat floor pan. I feel that moving fuel/brake lines to this location out of the tunnel will create a far greater issue. but what do they class as a “substantial increase” in power?

yup yup . I did actually notice the clutch fork has no movement when i looked at it this morning. makes me wonder if the offset of this flywheel is incorrect... or an issue with the master and slave combo.. they are a matched pair of s1 rx7 units.

Anyone have any good leads on quality spool guns? I’ve killed 3 this year, one was less than 24hrs old ffs. the wire feed keeps breaking. razorweld brand.

Yarp. had it running again today, and noticed the revs increased when the clutch was pushed in. hmmmm

will need a co2 reg to run that gas. why not run a coregas bottle from bunnings? I have an empty one sitting here doing nothing as I have gone through our local supplier on rental bottles.. upped to an F bottle. Bonus with bunnings is that you just swap it over... pay a "deposit" to get your first bottle though.

Pull a sicky

Can offer the fuel vouchers I was given to tempt someone

Yup, was running co2. Was a good option

No noises, just stalls on release clutch fork and bearing has some movement at rest so feel normal.

I wondered home. Even Stirling clutch dont have a clue what it could be.. might need a physic medium or whatever those jokers are

Yes. only happens while it’s running

Nah the bearing is fine, I checked it when I swapped the box on Friday.

Will try it with the driveshaft out later after the whinging neighbour is gone so I can start it

Just jacked it up, chucked in first and spun it over in gear no ignition. normal. Same in reverse. so the issue is only when it’s running and letting the clutch out

Looking at the box that was in it, there are no witness marks from anything