shizzl
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Posts posted by shizzl
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Made up an exhaust shield as well as its less than 50mm between the tank and muffler.
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I can’t wait to get these reactors retrimmed to a more suitable colour.
I made up a switch panel today just to temporarily *permanent* house the switches.
have a kill switch, diagnostic switch and the red one has been set up to be the engine check light.
also made up the centre console plate and painted it. Need to get some black vinyl to finish it off. Then the screws will disappear.
also made a bellhousing plate to fill in below the engine.
running a golf ball for a gear knob for now
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I saw a group racing these at Crank up in Edendale a few years ago.
they were part of a club possibly out of Gore.
most of their rigs were modified reel mowers, was crack up
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Did a thing and drove it home today.
off for an alignment tomorrow, drives straight as already.
definitely need to address the exhaust height, it’s low, too damn low now that I dropped it another 10mm or so.
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I never ran a tsl on my truck carting my Stockcar.
the system is a joke and needs fixing.
imho a tsl should only be required by those who offer transport for hire or reward. Ie paid cartage of goods or passengers.
I once bought a 510 trader off temuka transport to carry my first Stockcar, he told me to leave his tsl on it and run it as is. What a gc.
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Well boys!! It drives, and boy does it drive.
handles great, smooth acceleration.
so stoked.
no driving vid, no co-pilots available.
made up 50mm blocks from 50x50x5 shs.
booked in for an alignment on Thursday.
just need a cert now
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Wow howdy,
Humpty is all together again.
fitted a air filter off a pipe due to not many other options.
radiator was modified by Waiuku mufflers and worked perfectly.
there’s only a couple of things to do to button this up now:
hose clamps on the intake elbow.
fit the o2 sensor.
replace the rear UJ that I have.
swap the 40mm blocks for 50mm blocks.
make a centre console cover plate to suit the shifter.
give it a wash and an alignment.
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Throttle control haha.
it’s not a daily, so I’m not too worried about a lumpy cold idle.
aslong as it runs and drives for now
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Tbh the floor mats were the worst of it, I kicked them out.
main carpets are clean, just wet, so hoping they dry reasonably well.
there was a little white apple Bluetooth thingy sitting in the water beeping it’s arse off too haha.
you’ll find all of the screws for the sill plates in the centre console pocket.
if it wasn’t raining still I would’ve taken my wet n dry vac and sucked it out
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Your one lucky sob @fuel.
jacked her up and popped the drain bungs put, had to pierce the sound deadening to let water out.
pulled the sill plates off.
lifted the carpet to let air circulate and eventually dry.
checked the tide line, luckily its below the ecu.
no visible signs of electronic damage.
checked oil, turned it over by hand.
no hydrolocking present.
chucked my battery in (yours was dead so was a worry initially).
no noises, no camp fire or fireworks show.
key on, all lights came up, still no sparkles.
turned the key and she fired right up.
exhaust is full of water, so she was a water jet for a bit.
left it running for 15-20min, got the heater up to temp to start the dry out.
have left it with Damien to chuck your battery in and keep it running with the heater on once your battery has life in it.
I removed your floor mats cos they were a sponge.
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Update.
seems to be sorted.
took the throttle body off.
found that the IAC was open venting into the intake. Removed it and made a blanking plate.
gave it all a good clean out.
got it back on , fired up and died.
adjust idle stop.
then fine tuned the idle with the screw.
cheers legends
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1 hour ago, Truenotch said:
It could also be the throttle position sensor. They sometimes hunt when the TPS is set wrong.
Here's a guide on how to set the TPS with a multimeter:
Legend, I’ll try this too.
thanks
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Just got home from car club night,
they said something similar.
Sounds like they have wax or something inside the throttle body to help control cold idle etc.
can block it off and manually set idle, clean it out etc.
coolant system is clean as.
but will throw it outside tomorrow and let it get to temp and see if it changes anything
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Hey all.
need some further ideas to my issue.
4age fires up really nice, idles away at 2000rpm cold, then after a minute it starts hunting between 2-2500rpm.
I’ve done the old brakeclean test around the manifold etc.
this is running a map sensor.
possible timing issue?
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@fuel ok, let me know.
I have no work at the moment, apart from a site visit tomorrow and some dicking around on the hunter.
im in Pokeno
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@fuel how’s the car looking bud?
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I find it’s the range of available products that we lack.
sure they offer it for sale, but it needs to be shipped in.
supermarkets throw more than 100% on food, they rape the crap out of consumers, it’s a known fact.
you’ll never see a broke arse supermarket owner.
id love to see farmers selling at the gate again like they did in the 80s. I’d support them 100%.
I’ve been doing a few jobs for some growers up the Rd. One grows cucumbers, the other does fancy hydro lettuce. Quality is off the chain, but they get tucked at the gate by T&G and supermarket buyers.
they give me freebies.
shit is monopolised to hell.
that is all
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are you able to get it on a towie ?
I can kick a fab table outside and take a work trailer home to gain space in my workshop.
best to get it cracked open asap.
I can do it this week, even got a wet n dry vac
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1 hour ago, yetchh said:
Re the pod filter, I got a k&n on for the mazda that had an angled sleeve..
Nice, that’s exactly what I need to sort.
looks clean
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Bled up the clutch today, then noticed the fork was sitting in the wrong spot on the throw out bearing.
so pulled the box, found the metal retaining clip was bent.
smashed it back and reinstalled the box, now it sits great. Funny that..
not much left to do on it, probably a days work.
Couple of vac lines, finalise a bit of wiring, sort some radiator hoses/outlets etc. refit carpets and modify the console, fit the lower shifter boot.
and find a suitable pod filter.
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Now that its running, i need to consider the next swap
Not..... totally done with this one.
Now the biggest task of getting a cert spot
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Thanks to everyone who chipped in with some advise snd stuffs.
This was timed by just slapping the dizzy in at tdc.
How good. It barked off.
Only a few more things to finish off now.
Waiting on some alloy bends to arrive so i can modify the radiator outlets to suit the tiny 4age piping size. 12a=40mm, 4age=32mm.
Need a pod filter and maybe a elbow????
Couple more p clips on the fuel system.
Replace the driveshaft ujs
Blank off 2 vac lines on the throttle body.
Replace the temp wiring with goodly stuff.
Pull the box out, fit a sandwich plate, inspect the fork and bleed the clutch.
Refit carpets and modify the console cover.
Job done
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3 minutes ago, Stu said:
Yeap, just use a 10amp fuse across those two wires
Awesome..so power is as you labled, then fuse in place of the resistor..
Go full send and see if it goes broom broom
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40 minutes ago, pbaines said:
Perfect. No resister needed, bang straight into the ecu (add a 10amp fuse) to the fuel injector 12v wire for safety and bobs your uncle.
Depending on how your loom works those early ECU's have a 'safety' relay which powers the injector positive side. Just switch the source to the black/red line for that (which is the power side of the EFI relay, goes to Fuel Pump relay, Coil and ECU) if you have any issues instead of having the unnecessary other odd relay they use, switch it over.
@Studoes that check out with my loom?
GTX Rallycar of wtf
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Yeah, don’t even think he’s used it. Just changed things round.