dmulally

Finally got into my local welding supply shop today and was about to pull the trigger on an Xcel-Arc but thought I'd ask the brains trust first. My current mig is a transformer one. The two I have narrowed it down to are a 200amp transformer one for $2300 and an 180amp inverter  variant for about $1200. 

The last inverter mig I had shat the bed just after warranty ran out and it was unrepairable. Hence going back to a 30yo transformer mig which has served me well but is getting a little long in the tooth now. 

Anybody got any opinions on either? I don't need to transport it so I don't care about weight. Just reliability and doing a good job. 

On 04/03/2024 at 20:54, yoeddynz said:

Couple of questions that I need clearing up on. I have the lvvta manual and with regards to driveshafts I cant find any mention of halfshafts on IRS setups.

I plan on joining 2/3rds Subaru leone shaft to 1/3 Hillman imp shaft (both same diameter) I'd like to do the job myself because I feel confident enough as an engineer. I am happy to have them crack tested if that's needed. I will be visiting my hotrod builder mate in motueka (who's well known with most certifiers) and running a couple of ideas past him.  Does this all seem fine?

Another thing I have spotted in the manual is this...

'Where a battery, and fuel system components, such as a fuel
tank or fuel pump, are located within the same compartment in a
low volume vehicle, the battery and the fuel system components
must be separated from each other by the enclosure of one or
both within a secured fuel-resistant non-conductive container'

But at the start of the chapter on fuel systems it states this...

'Note that where a production vehicle is fitted with its original fuel tank or other fuel system
components in their original locations, the requirements in this chapter do not apply'

I have my battery mounted very securely within an alloy box above the tank, the box is bolted to the firewall. The leads are secured within flexible conduit that's attached to the firewall before running into the interior.

I'll be using the original tank is but fitting the small nissan micra fuel injection pump within, through the top where I'll be making a sealed bolt down lid just large enough to get the pump in. (cant quite squeeze it through the hole the fuel level sender fits through)   There's no room for a surge tank, nor do I want to go down the route of a noisy external pump again.

Does this seem all ok ?

My engineer (who might be your one too if initials are JC) said there were no real guidelines on it and I offered to have them fully welded by an engineering shop which he knows and was happy with that. So might be worth tacking it and having an engineer shop weld it up and provide a receipt stating exactly what they did. 

I'd scrub it with a nail brush first and paint it with a couple of light dustings with no primer. 

2 hours ago, 63Ragtop said:

I've thought about making one of these for the bug.

Bug-tech.

 

As always, enjoy your work man.

Pretty sure I have left over bits for a beetle shifter invention if you want em. I was going to go VW on top of the tunnel but went Imp shifter and up at the back like Alex. 

Good move on the rear subframe mounts. I always get nervous about mine. When I put the 340s on the hoist I have a wood post jig/stand that I wedge under the rear suspension as I'm worried something will fall out. I'm not sure if it's even possible for it to fall out but it always bothered me just hanging there off the rubber mounts. 

On 20/02/2024 at 08:56, dmulally said:

https://auction.abauctions.co.nz/auctions/4-CMJP8V/estate-of-neil-otway-classic-trucks

Who wants to go here for me to bid? I've tried one of AB Auctions online and it was terrible. Shitty lag and bids missed and I assume somebody who has never used a computer using the computer.

 

 

 

So on the off chance somebody was stupid enough to buy one of these trucks, can anybody recommend a hauler that could drag one to Martinborough? 

I usually use Rod Clifton's but they are on the other side of the hill so is usually a delay. 

@Bearded Baldy which is the one we have? A wide block?

I would love to swap a 4d56 for my 4g63 if it ever dies so if you can let me know how you get on that would be great. 

17 minutes ago, cubastreet said:

I think a big cruiser like a jag or Cadillac is the best candidate for conversion personally.

A 24kWh leaf battery is about 300kg so any nice nimble sports car is instantly ruined.

What sort of dickhead has old jags just sitting under car covers in a shed?

I doubt there is much of a market yet. But it's inching closer. 

https://www.resolve-ev.com/

Do I have to use the Nissan Leaf motor, inverter, BMS and charger?

Yes, for now all components are dependent on each other. By using all Nissan components the system works as it was intended originally by the manufacturer.

Can I use the original Leaf throttle pedal?

Yes, the Resolve controller works with all Leaf pedals from 2014-2021. For more info please visit the Wiring Diagram & Fun Facts document. If you instead want a bottom mounted throttle pedal the Resolve controller also works with the VW Touran pedal.

Does the 2013 Nissan Leaf Model (used) work?

Drivetrains from 2013 models are in most cases compatible with the Resolve Controller. You can verify compatibility by comparing the appearance of the drivetrain with a 2014 model. Caution with 2012 Models Registered as 2013. Beware of the potential confusion with 2012 models that may be registered as 2013. These have a different powertrain, making them incompatible with the Resolve Controller. We go into this further in the Wiring Diagram.

20 minutes ago, Bling said:

Ah right, what sort of custom bits would you need for that? Could repack the battery setup into something that fits and motor etc all just jammed up front. That could be pretty sweet. Have seen whales like landcruisers done with the basic 80kW Leaf setup and it seemed legit. I'm sure people have done tractors. Im going to have to look now...

For a lawn tractor I was just going to mount a DC motor vertically and have that run the crankshaft pulley in place of an engine. I live off grid so the plan was to use my a house battery bank in the mower/tractor and charge it off solar. Hence a 48v motor. 

This couple did something a lot more gucci with an F150 lightning and their house. They drive to town to top it up so they don't have to run a generator. My winter generator is 115yo Lister so I doubt Ill change that as I enjoy hearing it clank away. 

I'm more interested in a 48v tractor or ride on conversion than a car but along with @cubastreet I have looked into Leaf transplants. They are getting close but haven't quite got the all in one package for a conversion kit out there in the market yet. For anybody wanting to have a play there is enough information out there though to give it a red hot go however. 

The last EV I build with lead acid batteries was about 15 years ago and used a Kostov DC motor iirc. Lord knows if they are still even available now but it was pretty basic stuff back then and it worked well for what it was. The range was about 30kms and I was so happy with that! 

With the influx of cheaper EV's and competitive loans for new ones, is there still a market to convert classic cars? Or are battery prices in NZ still really offensively high? 

Passed the wof no worries. But rather annoyingly I took it for a decent spin today to get some light fencing supplies and by the time I got home the replacement power steering pump was making the same noises as the one I shitcanned. Which is pretty frustrating as it is apparent that something is causing it to eat pumps and I have no idea what. It seemed to be a little slack so I tightened it up and although it fixed it at low speeds it was still there when turning. Gah. Might have to look for a manual box as this sounds like a project!

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/austin-rover/listing/4565439509

14 hours ago, rusty360 said:

I've got a couple of mates going I'd say.

Reckon they'd be keen on some shenanigans? 

2 minutes ago, Willdat? said:

I've added a new line for the K11, no maintenance, no depreciation...

It's the winner until petrol hits $5.50/L @7000km/year

Can you add my 66 Chev ute please? 

It gets 23l/100 highway. I've never taken it into town so no idea what it gets city but I assume worse. As for resale nobody else would be as stupid to get one so that would be n/a. 

24 minutes ago, Willdat? said:

Sick child at home so updated the spreadsheet to reflect RUCs, Leafs are still smashing it

http://tinyurl.com/howRUCswillaffectus

Blimey. After looking at the total costs maybe I should stick with my shitbox old cars. 

Very helpful. Thanks for sharing! 

1 hour ago, tortron said:

Wow that's just down the road, curse you for showing me the link

 

 

 

Flirty PM sent 

https://auction.abauctions.co.nz/auctions/4-CMJP8V/estate-of-neil-otway-classic-trucks

Who wants to go here for me to bid? I've tried one of AB Auctions online and it was terrible. Shitty lag and bids missed and I assume somebody who has never used a computer using the computer.

10 hours ago, Valiant said:

It's easiest to order the fuel line from Australia.

I have used Blue LPG before.

Blue LPG Tanks & Gas Parts - Blue LPG

What system are you using?

Ta.

I have Impco bits for the most part. I might do a stocktake when the rain eases and I could be bothered to go to the shed and see what I have. I'll post a picture. 

Edit: This is what I have:

These look like a lot of fun. Shame it isn't manual.