Ashkellybarr

Needed a chair in the garage. old recaro + $30 warehouse office chair + flat bar

Haha no stress mate! Looks bloody good!

Still busy with life hopefully find time to put this in. Type S oil pump upgrade for the k24. Apparently the k24’s oil pump cavitates at higher rpm and the k20 oil pump is better designed for high rpm. its a shame it’s cast alloy because I wanted to extend the sump to be deeper and lengthen the pickup to suit. can get one of these to help stop the oil traveling up the timing chain cover, and I’ll look into modifying the sump as I’m phoning to be pretty paranoid about the oiling system. oil systems probably gonna cost more then the motor with all the bolts ons haha Owell https://tractuff.com/products/tractuff-oil-pump-baffle

Awesome stuff man!! Looks really good! It’s amazing what you can do with ply. old boy builder I’ve been doing some jobs with just built a walk in pantry out of it. Used 3 sheets at $67 a sheet. just a skill saw, glue, screws and drill. Their getting cupboard doors done by a cabinetry place when they get the kitchen done, but super impressed with what he could do with so little

Here’s some better photos of the finish. probably used more clear on it then the black. sanded it with 600gr between the final coats and thinned it right down

Yeah it is super thick. It’s meant to be thinned down. you can actually add quite a bit of thinners to it and it’s still sweet. Good for the following coats. helps it self level and release bubbles too. and it doesn’t seem to slow down the drying time either. Once rolled out and a bit of air flow it goes tacky pretty quick. if you mix up to much in the tray with thinners and have left overs after a coat don’t be afraid to just poor it back in the pot. Painter mate said it’s fine and I’ve done it with this no issues

Yeah mate super stoked with how it’s turned out. it is super dark though so I’d definitely recommend picking up a pot of clear and mixing it for the added coats. And get 3-4 bottles of turps straight jap black super thick for the first coat then sand it to get the grain. then clear and jap black mixes to get it to where you want is the go. heres some photos of it with the chairs I’ve just finish staining, still needs a finishing coat, witch will be clear thats thinned down a lot so it self levels and releases bubbles easy

Fab mates had a baby 6 weeks ago then been on a corse so the legs got put on the back burner for a while. 30x75 box tube. 110 degree angle. i was planning on doing them square but he talked me into an angle and I’m happy he did. i wanted something with a large foot area so it’s easy to slide around and with a large surface area won’t fuck the carpet. still needs another coat of clear and I do the bar stools and dinning chairs in the same stain excuse the mess we’re redoing our laundry atm so there’s shit every were. hopefully get onto the coffee table soon when funds replenish from reno’s. If anyone needs any electrical work done let me know

Yeah I bought some off trademe, advertised as early landcrusier locks. But there all the same from that era

When I bought one of my cars it had all miss matched keys from doors to ign. Just took them to a local lock place and they changed all the pins to suit one key. Could be a solution if that locks worn to just change the pins out for new ones. or just swap the drivers and passengers door locks around

Cool many thanks!

Cheers for the reply the repairs been done and I’m told it was signed off by a certifier. however car doesn’t come with any paperwork to back it up, nor can VTNZ or carjam can confirm anything about. Car has since been modified and will require cert for the mods so I’m asking as I don’t want it to be an issue should it go for cert thanks again ash

Haha I just got a new naughbour too so I’ll try the factory one first haha might have a look at the governor too. But I feel cause it’s smoking so much as if it’s really rich it would be less likely to be that cause that would be the same as just chilling part throttle??

Yeah was just looking at a generic ones on trademe. Think I might be worse off?

Whipped the exhaust off yesterday, it’s the original for sure and all I can I see in it with a phone light is shiny sticky black tar. filled it with break cleaner, degreaser and an assortment of other random aerosols I had sitting around and shook the shit out of it for a good while. Tipped it out but not much came out so thinking the packing socked it up so let it sit for a while to air as I had thoughts of me bolting it back on and starting it only to go off as a hand grenade not much difference so I’ll give the heat a go. Found this on YouTube and looks like fun so I’ll dig out the heat gun and wait for the miss’ to go out so she doesn’t put a stop to my fun for fear of me burning the house down failing that there’s super cheap generic systems on trade me with an expansion chamber and straight through muffler for 30 inc postage so I’ll cut one of them up and fit it under fareing. gotta be miles better then some non straight through thing with multi chambers from +35 years ago

Yeah correct. I haven’t looked into it properly but was my plan to reuse factory loom where I could if there isn’t a constant supply I was going to look at seeing if there was another core going to the fuse box (or close to) and refitting that end onto a fused constant.

Hey Cletus just wondering, if a car has had a section of the floor replaced and this needs a repair cert. how would one find the repair cert paperwork? ive done a car jam report and it doesn’t say anything, nor is there any other paperwork to go with the car do these get logged on a system of any sort? thanks ash

White will come straight from the battery so be careful where you tap in as it might not be fused If it’s like my 3A there should be some weird emissions box thing above the glove box, have a look at using the feeds and 0v to that. That way your using factory loom and fuse so will keep it tidy and the ecu fuse in the fuse box instead of a random inline one witch can be hard to trace. black with yellow strip should be starting circuit and go to your starter relay and solenoid?? There should be another black (with maybe a red stripe?) that will feed other accessories witch might be better for switch feed

Yeah seems to be good so I’ll do the fluid and leave it. went for a blat yesterday and she’s pretty fucking guttless, hits 20km then falls flat as a pancake. Smokes like fuck too. the old Columbian Man i bought it off had the carb rebuilt and said it’s run far better since but with 8 other scooters he’s not had the time to look at it. im thinking it’s a mix of a blocked up exhaust and maybe running a bit rich so I’ll take truenotchs advice on cleaning that out and see if that helps. aside from that, it starts so easy a toddler could kick start it haha all the switches work but indicators stay on so Ill wire in a new flasher and chuck some Ali LED lamps in it to brighten it up.

Sweet, yeah was thinking I might pull the drums off and give them a clean out a see what they look like. if I do need new shoes can I just call any old scooter place?

The electric ign isn’t working either so I’ve got to do some fault finding on that. kick start works but the misso will need that working. i read it runs a 20-30vac dyna with a 12vdc rectifier, small battery to feed starter and lights. I’m pretty confident with wiring but if there’s any common failures to look at first it would be much appreciated

Awesome cheers! Yeah Some google search’s said something about wet clutches but It was pretty breif. But I get what you mean about free wheeling, much the same as a push bike when you stop pedaling is there a way to test if these are slipping? And if they are what would be the next corse of action? would the springs on the clutches get soft over time and engage to early or are they a pretty reliable system?

I bought a scooter! And I need some help as I know nothing about them haha it runs and has rego so it’s just general maintenance I need to know about. What fluids to use, things I should look at, where to get parts etc etc the scooters a 1984 Suzuki roadie 50cc i bought it cause it was cheap, and me and the misso want something cheap to run for short distance nipping out and miss’ to get to work when the weathers good. also a good mate is opening his own shop doing painting and custom work so I’ll let him have free reign as a canvas, and the boys can take it with them to events as pit bike / advertising its a three speed auto, not sure how it works but if someone could tell me what fluid to use it that would be awesome. and anything to check with the breaks? Drum brake front and rear

Some sad looking scissors mate

Kris’ lux pulls hard to! And it’s actually not that bad in the cab at all. far cry from my leafs all round haha