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Posts posted by chasinthemirage
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@cletus how often do you see old cars that have numbers that don't match? There was a Zephyr in the club I used to belong to that had been registered a year before it was built ie rego said it was a 1963 but the number stamped on the body indicated it had been built in 1964. What would be the go there if you had a car like that?
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Hmm yeah might just mask it up tbh. With the glacial pace of progress on the car I'd rather not have an irreplaceable part at VTNZ for however long. Just as long as there's nothing under it contamination wise that will affect the new paint.
I feel like if I just removed it and went for a wof with it reattached its one of those things that could go either way tbh.
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Do they use special rivets or anything? Just curious as to whether anyone would be able to tell whether they'd removed it or not.
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Zephyr should be getting painted soon, I want to remove the ID tag before it gets painted as I think it will look better than masking it off. Its secured with four pop rivets, am I all good removing it or will I run into issues come time to get it another WOF?
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Man it must be great being able to whip things up on the lathe like that!
Also interesting re the testing station. My brother took his Surf there a few months back (32s, 2" lift, spotlights etc, nothing out of the ordinary) and they went to town on it. Wanted proof from Toyota that the lift wasn't more than 2", made him take all the stickers off the side windows, also wanted him to remove the lower half of the dash to prove there wasn't an odometer switch in there etc. Won't be going there ever again.
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Still a lot less work than mine needs though! I'm hoping my brakes etc will be okay but we'll see, been sitting for awhile now.
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Its certainly been a long cashie haha. Once its painted progress shouldn't be too bad though, the running gear is pretty much done so that can all go back in.
What state is yours in currently?
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What I remember the most is the N04s running bearings due to diesel in the oil and customers getting super irate because the VGT actuator had packed up and they had to replace the entire turbo as a result. Good times in parts haha
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Yeah g'day, been a minute eh. In fact I hadn't seen the car in something like two years but a couple of weeks ago the old man and I hired a trailer and picked it up from the panel beaters.
The body has been taken back to bare metal, the rust has been sorted as well as a redo of a couple of old repairs for peace of mind. Theres still a few wee things to be sorted before it gets painted, I think years ago I told the panel beater I was keen to have a go but tbh I'll just pay an expert to do it and then get them to prep and paint it at the same time. Hopefully got someone coming to see it in a couple of weeks. Tbh I kinda cbf with paint, pretty tempted to just rattle can and slam it so I can actually drive the thing.
Progress will likely be at my usual glacial pace, mrs and I bought a house a few months back and I'm unenthusiastically working my way through an apprenticeship so things are fairly busy but pretty exciting to have the thing tucked away in the garage after being away for so long!
Yarn fred here:
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Ideal, worked in parts at a Hino dealership for a few years, don't really remember doing much for the J07C motors apart from filters and gaskets. I'm pleased its not N04C powered haha
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Shitchea, love me a Hino. What engine and box is it running?
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As far as the handling with a leaf spring live axle, what's your ultimate goal with the build? I'm no suspension expert but surely with a bit of fettling with shocks and sway bars etc you'd be able to make it go pretty well. Even if it didn't handle that well it'd be so damn cool it wouldn't really matter IMO.
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Sweet thanks dudes, I'll squirrel a wee bit of coin away for some preventative maintenance after the next wof. @Bling I'll take a photo of it after work, such a work of art that exhaust.
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I guess I want the tip of the probe as central in the pipe as possible? And also at 90 degrees to the flow?
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I've recently bought a KZN130, 1KZ-TE manual. Pretty keen on prolonging a cracked head for as long as possible, what's the go with installing an EGT gauge? Where is the ideal spot for the probe? I'm sure I've seen it somewhere here before but I can't find it.
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Wee update, I booked the truck in with the guys at JC Installs and I couldn't be happier with the service. They had the install done same day and have done a super tidy professional job. They also took the time to tidy up some shoddy wiring that made itself apparent when fuses started blowing that night. Having seen the quality of the wiring on the gauges I removed I'm 100% confident that the fault wasn't caused by them but they fixed it free of charge for me anyway. I'll definitely be heading back there next time I need an alarm, head unit etc sorted.
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Perfect! Thank you!
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Hey dudes,
As per the thread title I want to have an alarm installed in my new car. I'm sure I could do it myself but I can't really be bothered in all honesty. Have any of you guys had alarms installed recently and if so who would you recommend getting to do the install or perhaps even avoiding?
Cheers
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8 hours ago, cletus said:
often if there isn't enough room in the relevant part of the plate they will put further info in the "exemptions" part, so it doesn't have an exemption for those things, in that case its just another box to put more info in.
cars that have a full cage will have 'authority card required" in that box, hot rods with no guards will have "nzhra fender exemption required", etc
Ahhh sweet cheers for that. If I were to fit an ARB Bullbar so I could have a winch, could you see that causing any issues come WOF time/dealing with insurance etc? I wouldn't want to risk voiding the cert.
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9 hours ago, Mof said:
They do drive on the road much better, if you're not planning serious club type offroading a beam isn't necessary.
Plus newer vehicle, less rust
We had a few gen 2s in the club and they did just fine
The majority of what I'll be doing is likely to just be muddy tracks and river crossings etc but I am quite keen to get into some more technical driving at some point. I've googled a few clubs but I don't really know who's who when it comes to clubs.
I must admit that there's also a fair amount of manufacturer bias here, I really like Toyotas and to some extent Nissans so they are all that I've seriously considered. Interesting re the Bighorn, I've always disliked them for some reason. Might have to broaden my search a little!
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So much pine for an early Landy, dad froffs them too which doesn't help.
I've looked at Safaris too but the rust puts me off a bit. They seem to be a bit worse than the Toyota's? Although realistically any Toyota I purchase will have some rust somewhere.
No real reason for wanting fixed beam honestly, it seems a bit simpler and sturdier but I know that realistically IFS will perform just as well if not better than fixed beam (for what I want to do anyway) and also offer better handling and comfort.
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2nd gens look so yuck though haha. I'd imagine they'd be IFS too? I quite like the KZN130 my brother has but I want fixed beam. I really want a Land Rover but I know that's a shit idea so I'll buy a Toyota haha.
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Yeah the brakes did suck, it was a lot more truck like than my brothers Surf or dads Hilux. So cool though.
@Mof I thought the asking price was fairly reasonable but maybe not? Toyota's in general seem fairly spendy, there's a tidy LN106 for 9.5k that's been recently recomplied but I like the idea of having a wagon for secure storage etc.
Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt
in Tech Talk
Posted
Whats the go with GL4 and GL5 gear oils? Probably about time I did the gearbox oil in my KZN130, Castrol website reckons GL5 for a KZN165 (theres not a 130 listing that I could see). I vaguely remember something about GL5 not being suitable for older transmissions but I assume the KZN130 is 'modern' enough that GL5 would be suitable?