johnny.race

This little ruffie has been hanging around outside for year(s) Have decided the rough direction of its future so it's been moved inside. I own a TIG and have never tig welded before in my life. Thought I might learn on a YN85 cab. This thing needs patches/beating. I have never done panelbeating before in my life either - but marvel at some of the work undertaken by ol' schoolers on these pages. Thought I'd give it a shot slow time. Not sure whether I'm going to be using this cab on a solid axle project I'm bringing together or stashing it away for a rainy day after I'm done. But in anycase - it's out of the weather.

Got this last year for it's cab. It's a tidy boy but has some body issues starting to show through. Plan on using either this or that single cab above on a LN106/65 chassis I have.

My xmas present to myself. An adapter from Marks4WD (Aus) that mates a 4L60e transmission to the gear driven version of the transfer cases found in the 5th Gen Luxers. Friggin' CHING CHING by the time it reaches your greasy little paws but it is what it is when it comes to these matters.

20 minutes ago, hood said:

Thanks! Appreciate the love!

The trailer went through VTNZ compliance/vin with the lsd.

I'm attempting to keep it as much Hilux as possible. I'll look into the possibility of modifying the bare housing to suite a Trojan hub set up? 

Any other ideas I can throw at it, hit me! The project itself is not finished. Still gotta pull it apart for blasting/paint. Fit factory bumper etc

 

Yip, yip. If you don't want the gearing drag or whatever, you can remove the pinion assembly completely and find something appropriately sized to fill the hole up (to keep road debris out) There will be no drag then. But you could also go the whole hog and remove the ring from the carrier too - and just run the carrier. The axles will remain centered/stable as long as the carrier is fitted. Bonus points awarded for having a Hilux ring and pinion for sale to then.  

On 15/10/2023 at 10:42, hood said:

.... I've got a diff housing I'd like to convert into a new axel to get rid of the gearing ...

Are you allowed to run a diff housing as an axle on/in a trailer? I thought you were not allowed to but don't know where that thought comes from. But anway - getting rid of the head will make your wheels wobble on those diffs. Love your collection of Luxers.

@tortron Thanks man, excellent clip. Ta.

It's been done a million times but do you think I can get a concise answer of the way it is accomplished? Fuck me! Oh yeah, there is the fact I forget shit easy, haha. But is there anyone that can provide me clear advice on how to go about doing it please. Is it just a special flex plate or something ... my existing starter would still work with it et al. Help. Ta.

Has anyone had any experience in fitting one of Marks4WD transfer box adapters to a 4L60e? The reason i ask is because I am wondering what the go is re engine/trans positioning in the vehicle. On a manual setup the the gearbox bolts to the cross member - so setting the position of everything else. Not possible when the trans is a none Toyota type like the 4L60e is. I have not been intouch with Mark4WD yet as I am just trying to get my head around what I'm going to be up against in fitting an ls1 into a 106. Cheers.

Thanks for the insight dudes.

Finally getting off my arse to do something re an old truck I have that needs the springs given some new life. Rang up Springtown (Archers?) in Hamilton and got a price of $220 per spring plus gst. On top of this would be freight to the lower NI. I've got 4 to do, its an LN106. Was wondering if I was talking to a sales office who ships the work on to someone or actually someone from the place that carries out the work. Anyone know? I see Archers also have a place in Auckland also. So who does the work? Or do they all have big arsed hammers, presses and an apprentice? 

It's looking like it might be worthwhile to get new springs but yeah ... anyone know if Hamilton actually bends their own? The guy sounded a little vague but then again, my Mrs reckons I sound like a fucking retard.  

1 hour ago, cletus said:

I have a video somewhere of one of those kits 

It didn't work very well, but also the cotton reel shaped spacers that attach the caliper are too long and they flex 

 

Oof! Haha! oh well. It looked to be a nice bit of kit. Flex? Maybe something cobbled up using double shear bracketry if I'm reading it right. But yeah, good to know bro. Cheers.

I got sent these from a dude that imported a handbrake kit from Aus. I mentioned it above i think. It's at the different end than you're talking about carrying out the mod but still. You can figure out which way is up in the pics - I had to. There is a bit of work in it. He paid something like 1K he reckoned. Well worth it I thought but everyone's mileage differs.

22 minutes ago, HumberSS said:

Yeah. That looks sound af. Spendy but prob a good solution. Will now explore drum idea some more..

Yep, I've seen the Trojan ones for under $125NZD but you might be getting less caliper, I dunno. Another place to look possibly are cart brakes. I've fucked around before doing brake conversions and by far the biggest challenge is matching rotors to calipers in terms of wheel stud PCD, diameter, back space ect. Considerations will be different in what you're mucking around doing though I'd say. 

59 minutes ago, HumberSS said:

I looked at the cheap trojan ones but thought cert guy may not like these.. perhaps i need to explore further. Can you send me link to caliper you used? Also might explore drum option further..

I reckon you need to look at those Trojan mechanical ones more closely. The ones @Transom described above are essentially what they are. I know what they look like and I've seen a pic of a setup being sold out of Aus (I think) for the rear of a transfer case on a r151f. It used a caliper that looked similar to the Trojan. The proof of the pudding will be the holding test that's undertaken on a 1:5 gradient. 

10 hours ago, HumberSS said:

Hey all, so on my camper build (see 4v Dyna camper build thread) i need to figure out the handbrake situation. The original one was mounted to the rear of the gearbox, as is often done in trucks. It was quite small (10" tops diameter)but obvs benefits from the diff ratio for mechanical advantage so doesnt need to be much. I cant mount anything on the back of my auto box so am going to go with a disk mounted on the diff pinion. Spoke to my cert guy today, hes ok with it. Just said make it as big a disk as possible. I can prob safely have a disk about 12" diameter, however the caliper situation is the thing. Ive looked at mechanical types like trojan ones but dont think they will like that for cert, really want sometjing off a car or light truck etc - any thoughts on suitable  mechanically actuated disk calipers appreciated. Any other thoughts also welcome.

Just my observation ... one challenge when fucking around with disc rotors and calipers that didn't come matched from the factory is compatibility. Things like the available gap width a caliper features ... the caliper mounting bolt holes in the wrong place ... the exit direction of the cable pointing at something/wrong way ect. Just some of the arse biters you can encounter. Question; what's wrong with a mechanical Trojan style caliper that makes you think a certifyer would reject it? They are good enuff for road legal trailer duty. Tell. Have you spoken to one of them and he's knocked the use of a Trojan back?  

9 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

You bai naow

 

Those ones are too small for axle work, aye?

On 20/07/2022 at 18:42, sr2 said:

Hi Guys, thanks for all the advice.

I need a vise for the above new toy. Any advise re size and type? (I'm watching the budget but need something that works).

You need to be between the business end of a typical cutting tool you will be using and the bed the vice will key into - with a ruler. Not all vices are equal. Some are taller than others. For all intents and purposes your working height (and subsequently, what you can fit in there) will be determined by how tall your vice is. You should keep this in mind, matey. 

I've never seen bearings in track rollers. Are those the bottom ones or the top? Most shops will swap them over/out. The only type I've seen apart are CAT and they had a big arsed pin that ran in a bigger arsed bushing. Everything floated in oil. Once one of those go it's mates need to be looked at closely. An undercarriage lives in one of the most abusive environs known to man. Dozers more than diggers but they pretty much operate all in the same way. Leaving machines in wet area's/under water is asking for trouble in the undercarriage department. Ching ching ching!

6 minutes ago, yetchh said:

@johnny.race what's the deal with the truetrac lsd's into a 2006 hilux rwd drive diff. Are they a straight bolt in? (with preloading of course) are there any other things needed parts wise? Sick of spinning one wheel all the time, there's a hilux 3.58 lsd on the tard for $1100 but for the price I thought I might as well get a better option. 

 

Mate, I've never had anything to do with fitting a Truetrac into Hilux housing. I'd expect it to be bolt in with nothing special though. If I was doing it, I'd spend an extra $50 and go with the solid pinion spacer too. Even the good/tight OEM Hilux ones you come across are no match for good aftermarket offerings when it comes to lock up. They do remain popular though. I'm selling that 3.58 LSD on TM at the moment. It actually sold today - get paid for/uplifted tomorrow. Late model 3 point something :1 LSD's are always worth reasonable money. A grand for a good one is a good deal. They can go for alot more. 

On 02/06/2022 at 07:56, NickJ said:

Quite a mission getting the old cnc into the shed, but have it hooked up to power and after a few days of working through the wiring diagrams managed to work out there is an issue with one of the safety switches, switch functions but doesn't clear the loop, must be about 15m of cable between it and the controller so will take a few more panels off to investigate, for now a small jumper and standing well clear does the trick

That cleared all the error codes/alarms

And I managed to get a sizing routine to run, can now jog all axes.

Still need to figure out turning on the spindle and running an auto cycle, slowly getting there.

Bro, tell the story or give overview of how the move operation went to get this beasty into its new home. There is nothing more satisfying than carrying out an industrial operation successfully in a domestic setting - well to me anyway. Its easy to forget that most places of work have concrete floors, high roofs and ample lifting capability. This comes crashing home when you're sitting there wondering how the fuck you're going to shift something that was never designed for a home setting and hand tooling. Tell pse ...

Another thing you can do too is bring in/introduce scheduled stops. Get out stretch legs, touch toes and breath deeply. Make it all count. Even if you don't feel like, do it anyway. Does wonders for the body, mind and soul. Everyone's hell bent on getting somewhere before everyone else ... fuck'em. Opt out, slow down and enjoy living. Disciplined driving bro. 

Is this still a thing? I am tossing up between buying new or having  a pair of leaf springs gone through. Who does this and has anyone had any prior experience in using them? Cheers.

21 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Some diffs require a casing spreader to get the carrier back in.

What he said ^ Near any rear loaded Salisbury type differential needs to be spread to fit those preload shims in without damaging them. You'll need to use a spreader in conjunction with an accurate DTI and work to spec or you run the risk of stretching the housing and it'll never preload right afterwards. It'll be fucked.

Thank you for the input. Everything's for sale. I want $700 for the 323 Jailbar and the same price for the rx4 grille. The jailbar is in excellent undamaged condition. I don't know about the rx4 item but it looks to be in good used (not cracked) condition also - but I need to check. If you're interested in getting these, pm me. My intention is to advertise on here in the 'For sale' thread tomorrow or the next day unless already sold. Cheers.

The rx4 grille (the top one) and the Nissan brake setup are spoken for (at this time) The rest I intend to sell. I've got a handle on what everything is now. Thank you OS. I'd like thoughts on what is a fair/market price on whatever. I'd give OS first dibs on stuff. Anything left will go on TM at some point or possibly to the PN Swapmeat. So thoughts on prices please. Ta.

Hi, can someone id the stuff in the pics please. They are parts left over from cars my sons used to own/fuck around with years ago. 

Grilles. I need model names please.

Lights. These were in a box where a wagon once sat.

Misc OS Mazda stuff.

These are Nissan Calipers but I'm getting conflicting info off Google as to what they are actually off. R what?

Thanks.

On 19/04/2022 at 18:51, shrike said:

Ae111 rear calipers have a cable handbrake (are common calipers on corrollas so heaps of stock)

Could probably go to a 270mm if you needed also pretty sure you can get rhe discs undrilled/they should have enough meat to Redhill 

Thanks for this. I like these early corolla calipers but they are not that easy to come by anymore, aye? I've got ae92's, the ones's you're talking about and a couple of others I've collected over time. My experience is this sorta stuff dried up in the wreckers decade(s) ago. I've got an adaption that fits the later zre152 corolla type but they are pretty small, lol! They sell though. But yeah, cheers for the input bro, appreciated.