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Hyperblade

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Everything posted by Hyperblade

  1. Decision was made to try and bring the cost down of the consumables (Pads and Tyres) So I dropped the wheel size down to 13inch so I could run TRS slicks. Old wheels and tyres weighed 17kg each, new ones are 12kg. New Wilwood Calipers on the front to fit the new rims. For the rear, since I'm still running standard AE86 axle I have waterjet cut down some Wilwood Polymatrix pads to suit. Of course all these changes meant the cert plate was no longer valid, so the decision was to make the car a dedicated race car, which saves having to do 6 months warrants, authority card and on road insurance.
  2. With the new tune I had also put some Mintex Pads in. After one race day, was decidedly unimpressed when I checked them... That's front AND rears toast. Cue the 4 month upgrade of the brakes and wheels...
  3. So got out to my first ever club day in Feburary this year. Had brand new 205/50/15 Hankook Z214's which were amazing for grip. New ecu and quad throttles transformed the car, throttle lag and hesitation all gone, and power from down low all the way to 7000rpm, my starts off the line were a lot more consistent. New PB of 1:39.2 Car felt a little bit weird in some corners as it now had so much more grip and power it was starting to lift the inside wheel, a lot...
  4. So at this stage I had no dash, my intention had always been to go with something aftermarket, but I couldn't bring myself to pay $2000 for a black and white dash, so the hunt begin for the right solution. First option was to slow (OBD2, Bluetooth and Android tablet) So I moved onto a Windows tablet running PCLink, this worked well but I couldn't charge it at the same time as having it connected to the ECU, but i did end up racing with it and it lasted fine to my surprise. But it wasn't a long term solution so I ended up with this tablet for $200 with dual USB ports It works really well, I have a hard wired shift light/warning light above the tablet, so the tablet is just for temp's and pressures really.
  5. Managed to get the car started on a the Link Base Tune, and drove it down to get it tuned.
  6. While we were doing the wiring, quad throttles, with trumpets, adapter plate (sq engineering) and filters came up on trademe, I couldn't help myself, lucky they just fitted... Move the battery to the back And started installing the new loom After many months we finally finished the wiring.
  7. At this point a few things were annoying me with the car. Speedo stopping working, then worked again, rest of dash continued to work fine throttle lag, put foot on pedal, nothing happens, then ecu decides you do want to go and opens throttle, this made clean starts impossible. 3500 rpm to 5000rpm lacking power (most likely caused by ECU not liking pod filter) So the decision was made to put a Link ECU in it. So out with this. Being a race car I needed access to the main switches etc, so the mock ups begin. The other thing with the wiring that was a pain was the relays/fuses were down the right of the accelerator pedal, behind the roll cage, a right PITA to work on. So since we were tidying up the engine wiring, we moved all fusing/relays/controls to the passenger side on a new distribution panel.
  8. So after dropping my PB down to a 1:43.5 on semi slicks, some funny stuff started happening electrically. Also broke the dip stick to top it all off... On the bright side, the front splitter was finally repaired and put back on the car. If your wondering why the repaired splitter has a split down the middle, that's because they are a nightmare to fit to a KP61 as they are too wide, we left the split so it would break there again if I went off road, amazing foresight it turned out...
  9. Finally got out to my first ever Pursuit Sprints and had a blast. And it even drove home which was a bonus.
  10. So after sorting out a new driveshaft. We then spent a few months trying to find out why we were getting significant drive shaft vibration, which got worse and worse as we tried different things. Eventually narrowed it down to the pinion being bent from when I broke the drive shaft... So new 4.7 Crown wheel and pinion put in and we finally got it running on the track properly.
  11. So after some time off the track to fix a leaking rear main seal, and replacing a universal in the drive shaft, had a pretty big moment when I blew the brand new rear driveshaft universal... It had so much force it pulled the driveshaft hoop mounting plates through the floor of the car... And broke the seat brackets
  12. First time out on the track Managed to break the front splitter going off road when the rear came loose. But after removing the pieces got some good laps in.
  13. Build Thread: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57478-hyperblades-kp61-racecar-beams61/
  14. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57479-hyperblades-kp61-racecar-beams61-discussion/ Moving over my project from the club-k forums to make it a bit more public for those interested. So it started when I brought this 1984 Toyota Starlet Racecar, I wanted something I could drive to the track, while still being safe during racing, hence the roll cage. It came with a 2L Altezza 3SGE BEAMS engine with the 6 Speed box, already in it and a really good build history from the original owner. Sale thread here has some more details: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38220-fs-1981-kp61-starlet-race-car-certifed-homologated/ More to come...
  15. What caused it was the crap rear universal that i had just installed. I have gone to a larger shaft with stronger universals, 2 piece would be nice but not feasible at the moment without a lot of work.
  16. Should be able to get it running on the one ecu (don't need body or abs ecus), you don't need speedo. As Roman said ethrottle and MAF are super important, ethrottle is in throttle body so no pedal needed. The ecu controls the throttle from 0 to 100% however it allows manual pull on the cable from 0 to 25% for limp home mode. The ecu does the idle via the ethrottle. So manual control first, then ecu taking over not the other way around. The other thing to check is fuel pressure as they don't like too low. Can't remember the exact number off the top of my head but over 50psi. As Roman said try an OBD2 scanner. There's a guide on in a few places for setting up Torque on Android to connect (not automatic) If you need any wiring diagrams, or pics of components feel free to pm me.
  17. Mine at a slightly higher speed, driveshaft was a pretzel. Very glad for loop...
  18. That's awesome information thanks everyone. I'm wiring in a link, so plan to use the canbus with an ODB2 Bluetooth adapter to an android tablet, at this stage i'm going to keep things simple and just put a couple of LED's on the dash for high beam and indicators failing. Since it's been confirmed i don't need an odometer that makes life a lot easier.
  19. I've had a talk to the local performance shop, and they agreed with all the above, but they also mentioned that I might need odometer. I didn't think this was the case from my reading of http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general But then again i missed the other stuff. Anyone know if you need odometer?
  20. A question around dashes. I'm looking at replacing my dash with an android tablet connected to the ECU via OBD2. From my reading of the rules, the only thing I absolutely need to have to pass a warrant (in regards to dash) is a working speedo (that is not gps based). No mention is made of indicator lights, headlights or high beam indicators to show on the dash. Or total km's Am I correct in my understanding?
  21. Well done on getting out to first race! Good to see you enjoying it. Need more videos of it on youtube... When do you next plan to take it out?
  22. Congrats on getting it out for it's first run! I look forward to seeing it out on track
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