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Hyperblade

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Everything posted by Hyperblade

  1. So while I was deciding what I was doing with the front splitter I sorted out a few other odd jobs. First one was a decent rear view mirror, I got this mirror bar locally, but the mounting wasn't great, so AliExpress to the rescue for some fog light brackets and a bit of chopping, i now have a really good mounting, here's hoping vibration isn't to much of an issue. Can now see out each rear side window from the drivers seat, where as before I could only see out the rear window. To finish off the side windows I painted a black border on the inside, definitely worth doing they look really sharp now. Got the hole cut for the Naca duct. And all finished. Managed to get out to view the Speed Festival on the weekend, great turn out of starlets for Shellsport and SS Cup. (and also saw @pe-arce's Beams powered escort battling it out on track which was awesome after following the build online). I took my tape measure out to measure the front splitter height on the starlets and most were running around 80-90mm clearance to the ground, (some were on 13 inch tyres some 15inch) so with that to aim for I finally got mine sitting right at around 92mm (at some point I will install an undertray and I can always lower the car more as I have more clearance on the tyres) I just have to finalise mounting to the guards (slightly off the old rivnuts so have to remove them all and nut and bolt for now) but making good progress. Next club day is 10 Dec so everything has to be done before then!
  2. Thanks for letting me know! They are stored in Google Photos, and the forum software was being smart and linking rather then copying them, looked fine to me as I was logged in. The other ones were hosted on a public img host. All fixed
  3. So up to present day. The rears are AE86 disks and have a shield around them which holds the brake line and is also attached to some steel which the caliper is bolted to. Time to get rid of it so the hot air has somewhere to go. So some very careful cutting with an angle grinder we end up with this. That should help, if it's not enough then might have to look at vented disks. At some point I want to get fiberglass doors which will have windows that won't go down, so driver cooling will get worse. So time to duct some fresh air. So first need to fit some Polycarbonate rear windows. I now have a NACA duct being fitted to the passenger side which I will then duct to the dash and point at me. So for the front brakes, I've been holding off cooling them as I have a new body kit to go on (as the front splitter has brake cooling holes built in. The car came with a kit that doesn't really fit, you end up taking a section out of the middle of the splitter to reduce the width as the splitter does not fit nicely to the flares, the angles are all wrong and it's all under stress. I also want to be able to get spares so I got some new ones locally that are made for the bug eye and which I can get more of easily. As you can see, miles off from fitting. Now having never done this type of work before, cue much swearing as I try and get them to fit. So 2 weeks later (many nights of just walking away before I make this worse) this is currently where I'm at. It's close but not quite right (and of course doesn't line up with the old flares mounting holes), you can see however the fitment of splitter to flares is 100x better. I'm currently trying to work out if I can get the front higher without chopping to much of the splitter or chassis rail seams (which stick out).
  4. So normally you would sort all the issues out for the next race, but I got busy, so did bugger all on the car So next club day came around, and it was stinking hot, 23c... So me in my 3 layer suit was siting on the dummy grid thinking I really should have got round to the driver cooling... Race 1 went ok, but I noticed the temps were getting up on the car, and driver, and brakes. Race 2 was the first time the car has ever been behind another closely for extended time, engine temps really didn't like that (104c) so the rev limit dropped on me (safety mechanism when the car gets to hot) first time it's happened to me and really annoying. Race 3 wasn't great, I ran with the fan on the whole time, but temp's just kept climbing and the rev limit lowered for the last lap which was the worst timing. Looking at the temp paint, the front's were no longer coping. There isn't a whole lot of space for the calipers in the wheels. It looks like with the higher ambient temps during the day, the brakes got hot enough to expand and gouge my wheels :/ The car is still fairly heavy (full glass and doors) so that's not helping the brake situation either, other guys with starlets are running street pads and no cooling. So new list of items that I must sort out for the next club day in December Cool Brakes Cool Engine Cool Driver
  5. So 1 new car trailer later And a new tow car... My brake upgrade to bring costs down was ready to go... So out for a frustrating couple of test days, where the brakes were spongy one corner and rock had the next, finally tracked it down to the rod going into the master cylinder (which i had replaced) was slightly sticking so the pistons were staying out, once that was solved the pedal felt much better. So onto the first Canterbury Car Club - Club Day 1 where I had an awesome 3 races. Oh so close to winning the handicap race, pipped just before the line. Car was handling much better on the new size tyres, and brakes were more consistent although I noticed some fade. With the new smaller wheel size however i'm now hitting the rev limit not far after the finish line in 6th, so have to feather it at the limit, which is annoying. So once back home had a good look at the temp paint. Front: Rear: So looking at the paint colour change (we want between green and orange) we can see the didn't set off the 550c paint on the front (which has no cooling) which is great. Rears however started to set off the 630c paint which is not good.
  6. Nope still has battery as well. I happened to talk to the Link guys out at the track and they said noise on the USB power line can cause issues with computers. I've also had it lock up when i unplugged the USB power so I generally leave it plugged in now. I have a dedicated 12v from battery which I can switch on separate from ignition so I tend to leave that on the whole time i'm out at the track. I use a similar system for the GOPro but it doesn't have the battery any more. On the dummy grid the blue screen happened when i started the car while it was already getting power through the USB, so noise does make sense as the cause. It took the whole warm up lap to collate data to send to microsoft before rebooting, nothing like driving around and watching a progress bar...
  7. Absolutely no latency or lagginess once PC Link is running. The 8inch tablet was a 1.2 ghz quad core processor and 1gb ram and that was fine too even on battery. There is a delay when PC Link starts and it loads all it's resources but that lasts about 5s then it's sweet from then. I did have the tablet bluescreen on the dummy grid, but I've set it to restart automatically, login then load up PC Link so it came back just as i started the race. Oh and Windows 10 auto updates are a pain (so slow to update and sometimes fails), but if you don't have wireless connected it can't do anything.
  8. Decision was made to try and bring the cost down of the consumables (Pads and Tyres) So I dropped the wheel size down to 13inch so I could run TRS slicks. Old wheels and tyres weighed 17kg each, new ones are 12kg. New Wilwood Calipers on the front to fit the new rims. For the rear, since I'm still running standard AE86 axle I have waterjet cut down some Wilwood Polymatrix pads to suit. Of course all these changes meant the cert plate was no longer valid, so the decision was to make the car a dedicated race car, which saves having to do 6 months warrants, authority card and on road insurance.
  9. With the new tune I had also put some Mintex Pads in. After one race day, was decidedly unimpressed when I checked them... That's front AND rears toast. Cue the 4 month upgrade of the brakes and wheels...
  10. So got out to my first ever club day in Feburary this year. Had brand new 205/50/15 Hankook Z214's which were amazing for grip. New ecu and quad throttles transformed the car, throttle lag and hesitation all gone, and power from down low all the way to 7000rpm, my starts off the line were a lot more consistent. New PB of 1:39.2 Car felt a little bit weird in some corners as it now had so much more grip and power it was starting to lift the inside wheel, a lot...
  11. So at this stage I had no dash, my intention had always been to go with something aftermarket, but I couldn't bring myself to pay $2000 for a black and white dash, so the hunt begin for the right solution. First option was to slow (OBD2, Bluetooth and Android tablet) So I moved onto a Windows tablet running PCLink, this worked well but I couldn't charge it at the same time as having it connected to the ECU, but i did end up racing with it and it lasted fine to my surprise. But it wasn't a long term solution so I ended up with this tablet for $200 with dual USB ports It works really well, I have a hard wired shift light/warning light above the tablet, so the tablet is just for temp's and pressures really.
  12. Managed to get the car started on a the Link Base Tune, and drove it down to get it tuned.
  13. While we were doing the wiring, quad throttles, with trumpets, adapter plate (sq engineering) and filters came up on trademe, I couldn't help myself, lucky they just fitted... Move the battery to the back And started installing the new loom After many months we finally finished the wiring.
  14. At this point a few things were annoying me with the car. Speedo stopping working, then worked again, rest of dash continued to work fine throttle lag, put foot on pedal, nothing happens, then ecu decides you do want to go and opens throttle, this made clean starts impossible. 3500 rpm to 5000rpm lacking power (most likely caused by ECU not liking pod filter) So the decision was made to put a Link ECU in it. So out with this. Being a race car I needed access to the main switches etc, so the mock ups begin. The other thing with the wiring that was a pain was the relays/fuses were down the right of the accelerator pedal, behind the roll cage, a right PITA to work on. So since we were tidying up the engine wiring, we moved all fusing/relays/controls to the passenger side on a new distribution panel.
  15. So after dropping my PB down to a 1:43.5 on semi slicks, some funny stuff started happening electrically. Also broke the dip stick to top it all off... On the bright side, the front splitter was finally repaired and put back on the car. If your wondering why the repaired splitter has a split down the middle, that's because they are a nightmare to fit to a KP61 as they are too wide, we left the split so it would break there again if I went off road, amazing foresight it turned out...
  16. Finally got out to my first ever Pursuit Sprints and had a blast. And it even drove home which was a bonus.
  17. So after sorting out a new driveshaft. We then spent a few months trying to find out why we were getting significant drive shaft vibration, which got worse and worse as we tried different things. Eventually narrowed it down to the pinion being bent from when I broke the drive shaft... So new 4.7 Crown wheel and pinion put in and we finally got it running on the track properly.
  18. So after some time off the track to fix a leaking rear main seal, and replacing a universal in the drive shaft, had a pretty big moment when I blew the brand new rear driveshaft universal... It had so much force it pulled the driveshaft hoop mounting plates through the floor of the car... And broke the seat brackets
  19. First time out on the track Managed to break the front splitter going off road when the rear came loose. But after removing the pieces got some good laps in.
  20. Build Thread: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57478-hyperblades-kp61-racecar-beams61/
  21. Discussion: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57479-hyperblades-kp61-racecar-beams61-discussion/ Moving over my project from the club-k forums to make it a bit more public for those interested. So it started when I brought this 1984 Toyota Starlet Racecar, I wanted something I could drive to the track, while still being safe during racing, hence the roll cage. It came with a 2L Altezza 3SGE BEAMS engine with the 6 Speed box, already in it and a really good build history from the original owner. Sale thread here has some more details: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38220-fs-1981-kp61-starlet-race-car-certifed-homologated/ More to come...
  22. What caused it was the crap rear universal that i had just installed. I have gone to a larger shaft with stronger universals, 2 piece would be nice but not feasible at the moment without a lot of work.
  23. Should be able to get it running on the one ecu (don't need body or abs ecus), you don't need speedo. As Roman said ethrottle and MAF are super important, ethrottle is in throttle body so no pedal needed. The ecu controls the throttle from 0 to 100% however it allows manual pull on the cable from 0 to 25% for limp home mode. The ecu does the idle via the ethrottle. So manual control first, then ecu taking over not the other way around. The other thing to check is fuel pressure as they don't like too low. Can't remember the exact number off the top of my head but over 50psi. As Roman said try an OBD2 scanner. There's a guide on in a few places for setting up Torque on Android to connect (not automatic) If you need any wiring diagrams, or pics of components feel free to pm me.
  24. Mine at a slightly higher speed, driveshaft was a pretzel. Very glad for loop...
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