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Posts
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Posts posted by j.e.d.
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Well, bittersweet post time. I came across an opportunity to swap the bike for a digger and it all fell into place yesterday. Change in direction with my life and what I’m trying to achieve for myself and my family.. and I can’t have everything haha.
I did manage to complete the oil change, primed the pump, and I heard it kick over and idle albeit just for a couple of seconds as the fuel tap was gunked up and needed cleaning properly. Sounded fucking great, just as I remembered it.
Goodbye old friend.
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Will need a prime.. previous owner drained the oil out of the tank so it’s been sitting empty for a while..
plan is to get into it tomorrow
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ah yep.. I was lazy looking at pics I'd already taken..
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Sweet cheers @Kimjon.. that'd be the one to the left in this pic... might have to call into the $2 shop for a telescopic magnet today. Thanks for that tip, as I wondered if there was a way to prime the pump
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Electrical all sorted now. Bought a new battery from Auckland HD about 1.5 years ago, and only just realised the other day that the + - is the wrong way round for my cables. Decided that getting longer cables made would be far cheaper than buying another battery, so a trip to the local auto sparky in Puke got me new 100mm longer cables made up and a new connector plug as the rear loom connector was corroded.
Looks a little messy as I needed to move the loom around with the swap over, but the seat covers it all and there’s nothing loose..
Pulled the plugs.. rear looks a little blacker than the front.. will give them a little clean up and see how they go
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I had a lot of issues with fitment of long tube headers on the 390… leaked badly the first time round. The mechanic ran a few heat cycles and bolted, tightened and retightened through those cycles. I have a feeling they tightened the bolts from back to front to pull the flange in tighter and straighter each time. Seems to have worked well this time around.
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Cheers man, will give that a go
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Yea man, work from home most days with a view of the busy road
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Got the dash painted and installed.. not convinced on the look but it’s tidy and that’s the only theme I’m working on at the mo.. maybe I’ll paint the chrome around the ignition and the stainless speedo ring.
And the glass was broken on the speedo at some point during the previous ownership. Unfortunately the stainless ring is pressed on so no way of replacing it, and a new speedo is stupid money, so I just cut a circle from some hard plastic packaging (shower hose from Bunnings) and that seems to work for now. Would like to run a thin bead or silicon to stop any water getting in, but for now it’ll be a dry weather bike so not too worried about it. (White lines are a reflection on the plastic)
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Couple more pics at drag day.
Found a plate I felt suited my car.. and a piss-take on me
On @piazzanoob’s advice, I took the car back to E&H as he wasn’t able to hear anything in the engine through the badly leaking headers.
Well I finally dropped the car back there last week and picked it up today. I feel like they’ve done a great job with this, as they took the time to run the car through a number of heat cycles and tightened up the header bolts in a better order.. replacing the exhaust gaskets as well. Funnily enough now that it’s been done right, the engine is actually running quietly, and the only noise is the exhaust reverberating through the H pipe and coming out the back.I’m calling it a win for now, so I treated the car to a new battery.
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Saw you drive past my place yesterday.. you must have been on the way to VTNZ
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Rover V8, 5spd Toyota box.. owner drives it most days to work.. very neat.
Also owns a SD1
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Thanks man, I'll do all that you've suggested. I don't have a problem with doing as much as I can to prevent any potential issues. Yea its a Super G, so I'll get stuck in there.. Cheers!
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Finished cleaning up the dirty things on the bike.. looks soo much better.
Have painted the dash as well so will put that back on tomorrow.
Now, I have a question for those more knowledgeable than me.. this bike has been sitting for a few years, complete which is good so nothing I feel I need to worry in the bores as the spark plugs are still in and carb connected. I want to do the right thing on start up, so I’m thinking I’ll need to prime the oil pump somehow (looks like a bung at the top of the pump so assuming oil goes in there). I have a full service kit for the bike, engine, primary and trans oils, new filter.. would it pay to hand crank the engine to make sure it turns freely? I’m assuming here I’ll need to remove the primary cover to do this though so hopefully this won’t damage the gasket. Not sure if this is necessary though.
I may need to clean the carb too? Just thought of that now as it may have a build up in there.. the bike has only done 1640 miles since being on the road though.. noticed the fuel tap was slightly seized, so a quick spray of CRC freed that up.
Feedback greatly accepted, otherwise I’ll just start on Dr Google and work it out from there.. ta
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Got the front end together tonight.. probably hard to see what it looks like, but I’m happy so far.. everything is cleaning up good.
then for something different, I picked up a scooter for my son who is showing an interest in riding a bike.. figured he should see if he actually enjoys riding on something simple.. it’s a 2003 Bug Bandit.. never heard of them before. Top speed of about 50km/h downhill apparently. Love the smell of a two stroke.
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Shining old shiny things. Using some modellers steel wool works wonders cleaning up the old chrome bits.
before:after:
and some shiny controls.. I’m really happy how these have come back considering the finish looked like the fuel cap
still a little bit of pitting if you look close, but I’m not too concerned.
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4 hours ago, cletus said:
This is what I would recommend. I wouldn't do any repair work until the repair cert guy has had a look
Any recommendations for a Repair Cert guy? Travelling not an issue, or are they mobile?
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Sorry if this has been asked before.. Can someone please confirm the order of things when it comes to getting a US car complied. I feel I will need to employ the services of a Repair Certifier so not sure where that fits, whether before or after a trip to VTNZ. Just looking for a real basic list like this:
1. Take car to VTNZ to get VIN issued and attached
2. Take car away & to Repair Certifier for an initial check & what needs doing & by who
3. Take car back to VTNZ for compliance check once repairs done & signed off
4. Take car away to sort failed issues
5. Return with car for recheck & sign off
I also want to sandblast all the underside, can I do this & seal/paint it before going to VTNZ/Repair Certifier or will they think I'm trying to hide something & ask me to do it again
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Totally got forgotten about did this thing as it sat in the container.. but tripping over it every now and then reminded me. Spent 3 days last week driving in shit Auckland traffic which has spurred me on to sort it out.
Spent Saturday with one of my boys moving things around and getting it in the new garage where there’s a bit more room
Started stripping down the front end. Shit pics sorry, I was surprised how finger tight things like the axle bolt and fork retaining bolts were.. sheesh
I’m trying to keep an orderly setout on the bench to reduce the chance of the ‘now where the fuck is that bolt’ question being muttered to myself on re-assembly. And still not sure how much gets blacked out, so will tidy the things that need tidying/painting then go from there.
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Great job man.. now have I got a job for you..
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Thanks .. need to have a catch up man.
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Mum & Dads little Scrum.. very handy by all accounts
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Flame MACKAZs Vulcan
in Two Wheels
Posted
Agreed, but I do like the spaced out cat image on the back guard