HumberSS

Do a skid. I like that you have seen fit to ensure your wife does not ask for a ride 

Wise words, cheers for the help. Any recommended contacts for around Taranaki? 

Wondering on what people's approaches are re rereging cars with extensive rust repair work. Do you get the repair cert guy in early or just get into it and document it all as you go and just let the wof guys ask questions where they see fit and providing necessary proof of repairs on a case by case basis? Ie do I run the gauntlet and beg for forgiveness or open up a shit sandwich from the outset? When I did the Humber 14 odd years ago I just did it, but had one tricky bit done by a local panel beater and the wof man checked that out with the repairer and was sufficiently happy. There were plenty of old repairs in that weren't super flash but it got through

Based in Taranaki, I'm told no repair certifiers here, closest palmy. 

Have always wondered about Honda's little L15b engine in the fit/jazz... Or the J series V6. 

15 hours ago, kpr said:

reso's /glass packs  after headers can actually help power wise, and smooth things out.  esp in bottom end.   

Would you recommend one or two different reso's per bank (and are the M&H ok)? And what about pipe size? My collector is 63mm, should I step down to 2" or 2.25" through the resos and stick with that all the way, or go up to 2.5" through the muffler? Remembering this thing is likely around 125hp per bank at a guess.. And do I need a balance pipe before muffler or would that be sufficient for the balancing aspect (will be above diff). Im open to sticking with a twin system right the way through but am trying to keep it packaged pretty tightly hence the 2 into 1. I also dont have heaps of room for a tail pipe so might side exit behind the wheel. Thanks man

Youve got two radiused ends on the plate, I would start with two split tubes at each end of the curved slot then curve some flat to stitch in between then duct from there. 3D printing something would be a good way to get a feel for the shape but analog is sometimes easier to figure out on the fly to start with. 

9 hours ago, Kiwibirdman said:

Your plan should be OK. I wouldn't bother with the resonators, straight pipe through to your 2 into 1 muffler. The length of the tail pipe can make a huge difference. Also the number of bends.

My Silverado has a side exit exhaust with a 140 degree bend out of both mufflers to get the side pipes in the right place. This is quieter than the previous tail exit with bends of no more than 90 degrees with the same front pipes and mufflers.

Thanks man, I do want it fairly quiet though - a bit of a sleeper. Don't want it droning in the back with my kids having to yell over it. I also want to be heard when I yell at them.

Thread dredge has helped thinking about next moves on the camper 3.4l 4V V8, guessing circa 250hp. Want to start collecting bits for exhaust build. Don't have adrenalinR money. Original thoughts were 2" all the way, 18" resos after collector and a largeish 2into1 muffler up in the guts above the diff then 2.5" pipe to back. I don't want loud, but also don't want to choke the thing, max HP's and mid range torque, so wondering if this is the right approach. Happy to entertain twins all the way, 3"(obviously) and multiple resos (are the m&h from STA any good, as they are aweful cheap). Chir

22 minutes ago, GregT said:

If you're still going to pack the muffler, rather than fiberglass try what I use on racebike mufflers.  Kart shops sell a muffler repack material which is a woven material in sheets about 500X500. It's quite thin so I think would fit between the perf tubes. I usually use stainless wire to hold it onto a perf core. It seems to have a long life in 4 strokes. The 2T karts saturate it in oil which is why they repack.

Stainless steelo pads are also a thing all over Yt muffler build jobs... Not sure how long they'd hold up though..? Maybe just pack it with all the swarf off your lathe! 

On 17/04/2024 at 11:48, BobbyBreeze said:

I live on a very loose shingle beach, all manner of 4x4s get stuck here all the time. We have a basher SWB V6 Escudo on 33x10s for beach duties, it does well but its a turd grubby thing and I want to replace it. W163 is pretty high up the list for replacements as I am a Benz foamer.

So, what are they like on the loose stuff? I worry about buying a 2 ton 4x4 and it not being usable here. I'd probably stick some 315/75R16 all terrains on the stock rims and lift as required for clearance. Doit? 

Yeah pretty good on the loose stuff. Like anything though, bad driving can get you in trouble. Are there any around your area you can take for a squirt to get a feel? You'll get those big tyres under it with torsion bar crank/index and spacers under the rear struts. I run 275/75r17 on mine at stick height no.issues of rubbing at full lock or anything. Have a look on YouTube, there are heaps of vids of them in all manner of terrain. There's also a FB group called modified w163 owners that has a lot of vids on it.

12 hours ago, alfalfa said:

I'm looking for something diesel and somewhat cool to tow our old caravan that isn't a boring as fuck ford ranger .

My current daily is a 3.0R Legacy that has heaps of power to tow it but I'm not sure the suspension is loving it. Replacing it with a comfy, reliable daily and tow wagon is the dream. W164 ML could fit that criteria quite nicely...

There are things to learn before you commit, I really should update this thread properly with the gl tales. I would say if you don't mind spannering your own vehicles (you are on os clearly...) they are really coming into quite good value for money territory compared to anything suitably capable/comparable. I think this is what scares people most about owning Mercs is they hear horror stories of repair bills. But that's from people who don't know which end of a hammer to use.. Cost of parts is pretty reasonable through rockauto. I've done more than I expected to due to buying a less than mint example, had I have been a bit more patient I would have brought better with probably a bit lower KMs (brought at 210, now around 232 in 9mths) Hasn't let me down. Is a very easy car to live with, plenty of grunt and good on juice.  

13 hours ago, alfalfa said:

 

It's too late I already have several ML's saved to my watchlist you'd better hope @HumberSS has tales of woe for me 

There will always be tails of woe, you just have to push through. You looking at w164 or w163?

13 hours ago, 87creepin said:

I saw a lifted diesel ML on 31s for sale on the tard and thought it was one of yours! 

Think I saw that too, was it in South island? Have seen more and more modded ones popping up. Seen a few daily drivers around here getting suitably abused. Its tough being a trendsetter. 

Some dude in FB has put 37s on one. God knows why.

Just slap a pipe out each side in front of the back wheels and call it done....quick and dirty. We need to see skids.

Well done mate

1 hour ago, dmulally said:

I wish I had that sort of talent! 

There is a reason I'm going for a one wire hookup diesel and it's entirely skill based. 

above my pay grade too!

You going to put a heat exchanger between pump and tank? I'm also rebuilding my old compressor, with much less enthusiasm than you... 

Always been curious of those standalone ECUs for the common rail Mercs, great to see someone using it for a conversion. @dmulally do this mate! There is one sitting at pickapart in np...

Would love to know how simple these setups are if you have more details

More pics. 

Also, I only have 7 original plug leads and they are not flash, and one oddball. I'm really struggling to find replacements that fit and would appreciate any Intel on sourcing something suitable. Amayama list but no stock..  wondering if maybe I could butcher some 7M leads perhaps? 

Hey man set of triples for a zed car here. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1419386445672831

I had a mk3 as my first car, never actually finished it but it had some cool period-correct fruit including the Geddes speed manifold running a 3L capri carb, and a floor shifter called an 'impala shifter'. It was a kit that bolted on to the side of the column shift box and stacked 1-2 above 3-4 with reverse right down the bottom and back, kinda cool. Sacked on the obligatory widened 13s and in british racing green. regrets..

It's a shit job. I'm doing mine underneath car on frames which makes it even more fun! Worth it in the end though

Cunty job. Am in the midst of floor skunge removal on the datto. Not fun! Recommend scraping all the under seal off first before blasting, will make the blasting job a bit easier. Good luck!