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DAD

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Posts posted by DAD

  1. Nice work with the refinishing - I definitely subscribe to the 'good and strong and not shit but not mint' school of modifying too, and you're ticking the boxes, haha. Glad the engine mount rubber suggestion seems to be a go. As far as the mounts themselves, if you need to lose 10mm total height is that something you could do at the same time as making up a captive nut section? Chop the tops off and weld a plate with captive nut in lower down?

    Otherwise, would have thought a hole and a welded in upside down flange nut would be strong enough - your crossmember mounts don't look far off horizontal so there shouldn't be too much lever or shear force on them, and if it's nipped up nice and tight most of the force should be on the mounting faces anyway. I've done the same with 2 of the 4 mounting nuts for my gearbox crossmember and that's got a weight hanging from it. It's also unproven and I'm not a materials engineer, so pinch of salt etc. YOLO.

    • Like 1
  2. Just a little update today.

    The exhaust I'm using is the same 2" one I'd had made up before 2015 nats. The chap that put it together made it with a downturned tip, not quite what I was after, but didn't have time to change it at that point.

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    I know the downturned dumpy look is a kiwi staple, but I'm really not a fan. 

    So!

    Chopped off the curved section. I'd nabbed a nice polished rolled tip recently, one of the ones that has a big jubilee clip inside for holding it on. The rearmost hanger was in the way, so I umm'd and ahh'd about chopping that off too, welding the tip on, and welding the hanger back onto the outside of the tip.
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    Went for the slightly easier method of cutting a channel in the tip to slide over the hanger, then clamped it in place. Works well, sits nicely in relation to the body, and both the hanger and the jubilee clip are tucked away under the rear valance. Happy with that.

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    • Like 2
  3. These ought to solve my offset issues. They have the same rear step as the WORKs, but are a little skinnier with a higher offset. Pair of 13x6.5 +10s, and a pair of 13x7 +15s.

    Outer edge of the fronts, with the 25mm spacers, sits only 5mm outboard of where the WORKs sat pre-spacer. Should give me the wriggle room I need. Rears might just get away without an arch roll as well, sit slightly in from the WORKs.

    Don't want these to be mint, but they HAVE been sitting in a dude's garage for 15 years, and were corroded to buggery around the bolts. 

    Pulled the bolts, got some new ones coming. Pulled the shagged valves, got some new ones coming. Got some SSR shank nuts on the way too. 

    Gave the lips a rub down with some graduated wet-n-dry, and a run over with some polishing compound. Prefer the bare ally finish to the chrome-like reflective finish they ought to be, so I'll probably just clearcoat them like this. Wire wheel and some brake cleaner on the centres and they are ready for paint.

    These were originally offered with an orange centre option, and I had some quite close orange paint in stock. The Starlet came with a green and and orange pinstripe down the side (of a green car, with a brown, beige, cream and red interior. Jesus, Toyota), so it should tie into that nicely.

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    • Like 6
  4. Fitted all the radiator gubbins back in and filled it up with coolant. Thought I ought to let the old girl put her face on.

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    She's a pretty lady!
    Dropped her down on the ground to check wheel clearance. Sits thusly:

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    Not insurmountable and almost exactly what I expected, but the bigger issue is that the now-spaced wheels rub the back of the arch on lock, didn't think about that. Hum. Might have to get some less dishy wheels on the front. Anyone got any 13x6 equips? 

     

    Oh, filled it up with coolant and brought it up to temp to start getting air out. First time I've been able to get some warmth in this engine, seems to run pretty well!

     

    Then I ran out of fuel, welp.

    • Like 7
  5. Thanks for the heads up, but I'm actually running Dynapro calipers - essentially just an updated Dynalite. From the dimensions I've looked at I don't think I'd gain any more clearance from the Dynalites. Rather than being the fault of the brakes, the clearance issue I'm having is due to the silly step in the rear barrel of the equips:

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    Single piece 13s fit fine, annoyingly. 

    Thanks for the thought though! :)

    • Like 1
  6. On 7/22/2017 at 17:22, DAD said:

    Only pain with them is I specifically ordered a setup to fit behind 13" wheels and they don't fit behind my 13" wheels. The WORKs have an indented lip on the inside barrel that interferes with the caliper. Got some 25mm bolt on spacers to help with clearance, but definitely going to need some serious arch tickling with them on. Problem for future me.

     

     

     

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    Done. Scarles, so you just know it'll go hard for what it is.

     

    Still in the sky at the moment, will drop it down tomorrow and assess what the arch sitch is.

    • Like 7
  7. So I got a bit behind with the thread, oops.

    Just going to do a bit of a photodump catchup:

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    New braided brake line. Serviced front caliper with new piston and a seal kit at the same time.

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    New repro carb diaphragms. This has twin Keihin CV carbs, and one of the diaphragms was split (pretty common problem apparently). Ran miles better after swapping these in.

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    Had a crack at condensing all the electronics down into an under-seat box. Tiny gel battery means that the original battery tray (which was incomplete anyway) was unecessary. Got carried away. Also converted to blade fuses with some AliExpress goodies.

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    Has gear, hurrah!

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    Despite the stealth electronics box, I wasn't quite happy with the side profile. Had to keep factory airbox as apparently the CV carbs have a mare if you run them on pods, so the whole area was a little cluttered. Only had one side panel and it was damaged, so decided to make some simple ones up out of sheet to cover it up a bit.

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    Pretty happy with that.

    • Like 6
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