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Everything posted by MightyJoe

  1. You could go full barry and build a trailer for it and attachments. Ride to a job, remove motor to power your weed wacker, chainsaw and mower. Do the work then fit the motor back onto scooter and ring ding ding ding home again.
  2. I'm impressed with your range of skills man. I can do all the founds and groundwork cos I do it for a living and on a personal level I can probably make a half decent job of wiring becuase you never see it But to build and finesse a kitchen like that, repair the floor and make such a crisp looking deck is a proper skill. And nice blockwork outside too.
  3. Respect man that's some top quality work you've done. I've just read the whole thread after you telling me about it at Hanmer.
  4. Yep exactly. I think it goes behind both timing covers but mine was missing from the front. Right exactly 100% on top of the cam retaining plate. You literally can't miss the fucking thing.... apparently.
  5. Has anyone tested the pressure of w cooling system? Just cos it says 20psi on the cap doesn't mean the 27 year old rad cap will provide 20 psi of closure. My truck used to spill it's coolant daily. Until I replaced the rad cap with a 17psi instead of 12. That was after first trying a new 12psi rated rad cap and doing a head gasket comp test. Leakdown etc etc.
  6. oh theyre different to the ones i know. ive no idea why there are 2 different sizes. mine are the same. but the rubber bush is circular.
  7. bits and pieces of a few cars lol. you need 35mm for an escort, and a rear bowl sump to clear the crossmember. but theres heaps of info on uk sites about these too.
  8. You'll need pick up pipes as well. They're different.
  9. Escort crossflow is rear bowl sump and cortina is front bowl . Escort enfine mounts are 35mm and cortina are 55mm. Or vice versa. Can't remember. I have a set of cortina ones you can have for mocking up if you want them.
  10. Hi i got the motor back together this weekend. I gave it back to the machine shop and he stripped and hot tanked the block again. he checked all the bearings and there was nothing wrong with them, huge relief, much confusion on the shiny oil. its Lucas run in oil, high zinc for the flat tappet high lift cam so i don't know if i was just looking at the zinc or what. but in a black drain tray it looked fucking expensive ill say that but he showed me the bearings and the cam. everything perfect. Apparently i'd forgotten to fit a bung at the end of the oil gallery, (i meticulously check th
  11. i used an ali express vent to atmosphere catch can. came with a mounting kit and small filter for less than $30. half the price they re selling the same ones on trademe for. theres a drain plug on the botton which you could probably fit a hose barb to and fit a straight return to the sump if you wanted.
  12. Yeah gonna get it in the bench and have a look.
  13. I\ve been playing with this on and off forever now, made the decision to pull the sump and worst case was realised. bearing material in the bottom. not good. I've made the decision the motor has to come out again. bit fed up about it but theres too much metalic in the oil. im only kidding myself. hopefully its a fresh set of bearings needed and nothing more. plus actually working out why it won't build pressure.
  14. Sorry guys I haven't looked at the car tbh. I'm in the UK with my dad at the moment so injuatbleft it alone. I will put an update up as soon as I back and work out what it is. Cheers for everyones help so far.
  15. MightyJoe

    Carb Repair

    Take some pictures and speak to palmside in chch. Simon is pretty good with these he'll be able to tell you if it's able to be repaired
  16. I don't think so. You can remove the rear plate and inspect the rotor but theres nowhere to manually make it work. Its just the drive gear into the cam
  17. the oil pickup is pressed into the block. some early ones were threaded apparently. not mine. the machine shop removed it and i hammered it back into place with some wood to stop the end getting damaged. there was some oil pressure there, as i removed the pressure switch completly and turned the engine over and there were a few pulses of oil, but they barely dribbled out of the block tbh, i'd expect it to be making a mess of the inner guard
  18. Na it's a plain jane single one. It's a direct replacement which takes the 'later' (ha) screw in type filters raher than the original cartridge type.
  19. So leave the pump on and just pump oil through the filter pipe? I was thinking it could be airlock and thats partly why I started it the second time and held the revs up a bit but they're not exactly sealed, they vent to atmosphere and the rocket cover was off too. ill try that though cheers.
  20. This is a tiny Welch plug? If so then yes I did that myself. I also installed the grub scewws each end of the gallery. There is no oil escaping anywhere. I think I need to find a manual oil pressure gauge and hook it up. I would hope they checked everything tbh as I've never assembled a bottom end before I wanted it to be right hence why I got them to assemble the short block. Oil pick up pipe is my only logical step I think. If there's nothing obviously wrong there I'll have to take the engine out and strip it back down I think.
  21. no i bought aftermarket ones, i couldn't find any crossflow ones and they would've needed machining to fit anyway. yeah i want to be able to use the cam so though i'd be pulling some silly revs. until the gearbox shits itself. anyway. its a 5 bolt crank . The machine shop came on a recommendation and weren't cheap but they do heaps of racecars and he knows his crossflows from the race circuits so i am confident in his work. i am going to drop the sump as soon as i can bear to look at it again and go from there i think. no load on the motor, it started pretty much off the bat and i held t
  22. thanks for that info. Yeah its a 120 block. 6015 casting number. not an L block but its a 1967 mk2 with the mk1 running gear so shes a bit of an oddball. The engine was completely stripped to the last grub screw, everything was washed, acid tanked and assessed and replaced as necessary. the only original parts are the cast block, head and crank. everything else is brand new. i paid the engineering company to assemble the short block but i installed the pickup pipes and sump and oil pump etc. i bought big end bearings and cam bearings on their specifications. it was also line bored to ac
  23. no even checked in the manual earlier. theres only 4. 2 to alternator, 1 to temp sender and 1 to oil pressure. the oil pressure is a spade connector and the water temp is a bullet. as well as the colour difference also i checked the switch manually earlier. earthed it to the battery and pushed a small scribe to activate it and it worked as it should.
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