Kimjon

Wheel studs, needed to be longer as not enough thread engagement with mags on. Sorted!

Boring shit Exhaust was rubbing on the bigger tyres. It's got a 255/45/18 in the rear...heat, hammer, and a little finesse...sorted!

I've been loathed to do this, but the time has come to start an impala thread. Lots a trivial shit will be posted, as the bulk of the work has already been done on this car.

Okay - rears are sorted. Still after the front ones...soooo...anyone got a go to place? I've never thought of it before, but every old car with aluminum mags will likely need this done. Steel rims are only about 5mm thick, whereas aluminum wheels are more likely to be 20mm or thereabouts...so makes sense in hindsight. However I suspect, like me, most are oblivious to this.

I've been Google searching for about 2hrs now...well off and on. Finally found a lead on something I could use at a reasonable price. https://www.allports.nz/category/346-wheel-studs-nuts 20x$5 is fuckloads better than 20x $18!!! I'll chase this up tomorrow. As for the spigots- think I'll just make them. My sizes seem huge compared to what available on trademe etc...

This is what I've got in the front, I'm after 10 of these...but about 5-10mm longer. The rear is similar, but the spline section is much smaller. Haven't got measurements on hand. Thread is 7/16x20 on all of them. Also after 4x concentric hubs to locate my wheels on the hubs. Wheres a good place to find this stuff??? Google searching is drawing blanks in nz.

Maybe. It's a good idea, thanks.

I think the sill would prevent this option from being viable. I'll check it out tomorrow...after 15hrs working non stop on my car I'm a bit over it tonight. Where that paper with the x on it is the sill, so I cant drill in there as I wouldn't be able to access the other side. If I go any further inwards on the floor to find the flat area I'll likely be too far inwards and foul on the seat. But I'll check for sure tomorrow. Thanks for the reply, much appreciated tho.

Balls! I tried mounting the retractors on the factory holes...looks good, clearances are good, it's in the magic H zone...but they don't work on that angle. Mine are designed to be mounted straight up/down. So I think I'll need to do the double plate method after all. Edit: Is this a viable alternative? And imagine there's a double plate, mounted it would look like this - held vertical against a non vertical surface

With the seat belt anchors, I removed the seats carpet etc...and under all that are factory original mounting points on the floor. These go through an overlapping seam on a crossmember flange. Can I just use these? Or do I still need to put in double plates? This rubber bung was in the threaded hole. Its behind the seat mounts, but at the very front of the B pillar. This section says it's okay...but man is this shit confusing for me. 50 pages on how to mount seatbelts! Surely 2 pages with drawings would explain it far better than 50 pages of words ever would?

Less work and not ruining my paint sounds good. He was happy with the upper mount point, but not the lower anchors. I'm capable of doing the work, just wanted to make sure I was doing it correctly first. Cheers

Front seat belt lower anchor points on or near a B piller. Can someone post a photo of what an acceptable one would look like installed on an old car...bonus points if it's an impala? Or perhaps a link to where I'd find the required standards? I need to sort this issue out for a cert, and I still haven't got my head around it yet.

Looking good, thanks for sharing.

Those are very good reasons. I just work on the theory that accidents happen to other people and not me...so I should be sweet as:)

Shit hot! Just carjamed it and first registration was 22 May 1964...sweet!!!

Thanks. Yeah confusing eh... Think I don't need them, may have to double check registration dates, as it may have lapsed then been put back on etc...

Seatbelts? I've googled but end up with complicated tables of rules I don't understand. I was under the impression that pre 1972??? You don't need rear seatbelts if the vehicle never came with them? Is this right? Or kind of right?

Have you seen this? https://trademe.nz/marketplace/toys-models/ride-on-toys/scooters/listing/2293747834 Looks a nicely set up unit. Pretty clean and well thought out ideas. Perhaps adopting some of these design elements could advance your build?

Maybe just run a wasted spark type system, should be easy enough to set up by using parts off a wrecked bike or car.

Don't know...but I'd be keen to ride in any class if it's on again.

Unlimited potential...

Thanks guys, appreciate your advice. Crazy how cheap some places are selling new replacement parts. Found an aussie website selling 2x new front rotors for $85 including new brake pads, or $60 excluding pads. And they ship to nz! So I think that's what I'll do, as I can wait a few weeks.

Out of interest, what the cost getting your brake discs machined? I could approach this a number of ways? ○ take discs off car, take them in for machining? ○ just drop car in and get them to do it all? ○ just buy new discs for $150 a pair? ○ or I could do it myself at home on my lathe, but I'd prefer not to as I'd have to make up a fixture for the lathe to hold the disc...more trouble than worth if new discs are only $150. Any clues what the going rate is for machining? Cheers

Would something like this be hard to cert?

Or maybe this one, looks slightly better quality? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Suspension-Kit-3-8-Manifold-Shock-Relocater-1958-64-Chevy-Impala-5-Gal-xzx/163081886852?_trksid=p2504926.m5232.l9681 Tempted