Kimjon

Ouch! What's a better alternative? Ideas?

Balls!!! Photo bucket is trying to make me pay to host pictures, $59USD per year. Not really worth it, so may look for another photo host or give up.

Started to teardown the motor. It's not pretty, some parts have been beaten like a ginger stepchild! Nothing to lose, going to give it a nudge and see if I can get it going?

Cool, in a roundabout way that's how I did it. I used a couple cardboard shims each side of the rotor and wound in the adjustment screws on the caliper in until it gripped the rotor, then I tacked it in place.

Is that good or bad? (Just googled answer...cheers) Just did a quick test to check that caliper geometry is right, Success!

Haha...it's like you were there, I went to take it apart and thought "dam it!". But if I loosen everything I can (only just) squeeze the wheel out. For now I'll just leave it as a hole. Can always mill it out later if need be.

Logic tells me that this should work, but part of brain is not convinced? Logically, the geometry of the caliper is pivoting around the wheel centre as everything is on a fixed radius. So it shouldn't ever bind...well I think that's right? It's a bit of a mind fuck, as the wheel moves twice what the leaf spring does. But I'm sure this caliper is neural??? Ahhhh...hope I'm right??? Other than being crippled by uncertainty, I'm pretty happy with the overall concept. A disc braked leaf spring front end on a velobike. Everything will get a tidy up later, but time to move on to the next challenge.

Got a bit done on the pivots this afternoon. Needs more work, but I have some ideas to improve it like turning up some more plain bearings etc First step was to fill up the original fork holes with the "hot metal glue gun", then Linisher to bring back to flat again. Then I started the pivots Plain bearings and split pins will be added later, plus tidy it up.

Ummm kind of. It's complete, but no spark yet. I've brought a couple coils and will hook those to a battery to bypass the magneto. Pete ran it like this, so I should be able to replicate his method. Engine will be next move, and the work back from there to finish.

Bit of a lazy day, didn't do a lot. But did achieve a few small steps all leading in the right direction.

Got up early, excited like a little kid on Christmas. Last night I was faced with the dilemma of where I was going to mount the compact bender. But in the early hours of the morning I had my epiphany! If I mount it with (4x) 16mm dynabolts, into the concrete floor it's going nowhere. And if positioned just out from a door pillar, I can get the full 270° of articulation when both doors are up. The arm can come off and hang on the machine, completely tucked out of the way...and it's in what I would call dead space in my shed i.e. a space that has no other use...win, win...win! It handled the 16mm cold rolled solid rod with relative ease, producing a perfect bend on my first attempt! Fuck yeah...love this tool!!!

I made this a couple years ago using a mates workshop, tools and help. He said to me if I ever decide to get rid of it, be sure to send it his way. Last year that time came...so I gave it to him to keep. It seemed only fair considering without his help I never would've been able to build it i first place. I told him about the drome racing and sent him a YouTube link...now he's keen as! So too are two more mates, so if possible we have a gang of 4 ready to take on the dome!

Brought two cool new tools this week to use. 1) step drill set Which did an amazing job cutting a perfect hole to fit this volt meter in. I feel stupid for not previously owning one, as I now appreciate just how good they are. The second tool is a compact bender. I'm feverishly googling and YouTube-ing up a storm on how to set-up and use one, as I've never used one before. Looks easy, so once I get it bolted down I'll put it to use tomorrow.

Yeah, that flat part of the tank that sits on the frame by the front of the seat. That would disappear if painted to match the frame.

Hi, what's the rules on indicators and stop lights? There are those clever led strips that do just about everything (lights, split turn signals left/right and rear brake light). I'd love to bend one around the inner lip of my rear fender, or perhaps under the seat? Is this a reality...or will a certification engineer just laugh at me and tell me to pis off? Your thoughts/experiences please? Thanks

Like, like, like! Awesome project, and so beautifully engineered.

Girder frontend underway Still a fair bit left to do, but it will have to wait until next weekend.

Forget world peace, solving the famines in Africa, and whatever bullshit woman say about how difficult child birth is...this my dear friends has to be the most difficult problem the world has faced! No...not that No that was easy, just slap it in the mill Bingo! Yup, an innocent looking little pull start. But it's not innocent, Satan had a lead role designing this system in the 1940's when he realised humans were getting tired of killing each other in WW2... so he cursed the world with this pull start mechanism, and the suffering continues to this day! 8 hours spent on this over two days trying to figure out how the fuck this pull start works!!!! 8 Fucking hours!!!! But it now works, and I'm exhausted...my brain hurts, my fingers are bleeding and I'm covered in carcinogenic grease from 1943 when this was last assembled. 8 hours!!!!

I think I've got my head around it now. I only had an hour to play with it today, so made up a bracket and bent up some rod. Then I jumped back onto the cvt connection to the motor. It had an internal keyway, so I milled a slot to receive this on the output shaft. Im not 100% happy with the hollow aluminum output. I have my doubts it will be strong enough...but if needed I can turn up a steel version later to the same dimensions.

Today I had McDonalds for lunch, WTF does that have to do with anything? Well it cost me $21 for a coffee, fancy chicken burger and an M&M McFlurry... $21 dollars!!! Half an hour later I purchased a leaf spring for a trailer, brand new, made of real steel...$22. Hard to believe that both items cost roughly the same, my only fear is that I turn both purchases into shit? But life's boring without a little gamble every now and then, so here goes nothing: Cut with angle grinder, left purposefully oversize for now. Mocked up for size...yip, too big, but that's an easy fix. Will roll with this idea and see where it takes me.

Wow...just read all 8 pages, epic!!! Such an awesome project, keep at it, its beautiful!

Well done, you're doing such a good job of this, very tasteful build. Can't wait to see more as it develops over time. Keep up the good work!

Stupid amount of effort going into this project, but it's kind of fun bodging together cheap parts to make something cool. Seat arrived today all the way from China. Fucked if i can work out how they can only charge $17 for a leather seat including free postage from another country door to door? Anyway: Seat stripped down, set back pivot made up and fitted Seat posts with a M8 captive nut in each. Plus pivot front mount. Test fit Hmmmm leather...sexy!!! Going to swap the leather on the tank to match. Will try simply sanding it first...nothing to lose trying that. But otherwise, back to the $2 shop to get another belt. Edit: Easy fix on the tank leather, simply turn it the other way around. I'll lacquer it another day to match seat.

Waiting on a few parts to turn up, so that gives me a little time to play with some of the "styling". Leather and pinup girls...two of my favourite things

The cvt and freewheeling rear hub should offer a certain safety factor should the engine fail/seize. Hopefully it will allow me to safely roll to a stop?