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Flash

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Posts posted by Flash

  1. On 24/11/2023 at 14:11, Tiger Tamer said:

    Thats Flash as Flash :thumbleft:. Always nice to deal with people who are genuinely interested in what you are doing and what you have done.

    Bill has done a nice job to complement your own hard work. You must be rapt.

    Thanks for the feedback @Tiger Tamer. Yep super chuffed with how it has turned out

  2. 19 hours ago, dmulally said:

    I remember having massive dramas with this on my Commer van tank. For LVV I had to have a 1 way check valve on the breather and it made filling up awful. Used to just puke back at me at anything more than a trickle. I used to fill up jerry cans and use a hose line into the tank from that when I got home.

    I ended up taking off the check valve which helped some. Then I made the breather bigger and plumbed it into the filler neck right near the top. 

    Probably didn't help where the inlet came into the tank at the half way mark:

    spacer.png

    Thanks heaps for the reply. Yep, I'm thinking along the same lines as you have gone by sticking an outlet into the filler neck. I'm so over washing fuel marks off the side of the van every time I have more than half a tank of fuel on board.

    • Like 1
  3. If I was to add a little outlet to the filler neck like so:

    20231102_122249.jpg.ad4301f4bc2f340a462f42857f948750.jpg

    But then I'd then have a challenge removing the filler neck through the body hole:

    20231102_122317.jpg.7bd8a45d7c4db0b1e2b38bf9f588ab18.jpg

    So, what I could do is cut the metal filler neck in two and then add the vent outlet to the lower half which I could remove from underneath the van. All I would need is an extra bit of rubber tube and two extra clamps to fit the two bits of the neck together.

    Thoughts?

     

     

     

     

    • Like 3
  4. 1 minute ago, Nominal said:

    Can you add a vent to the filler pipe and pipe that into a loop? 

    I would think that you could expect to get fuel coming up the vent from the pump if you use a T-piece, since depending on how well the cap vents the fuel tank might be slightly pressurised.

    Thanks for the feedback. Standby, I'll just go and take a closer look at the filler neck.

  5. I'm in need of some advice from the old school brain's trust.

    I'm currently running a vented fuel cap on my Thames van and it pisses fuel down my paintwork whenever I make a hard right with anything more than a quarter tank on board.

    The van came from factory with a non-vented fuel cap and for venting it used a little outlet on the tank with a looped bit of hard line tucked up under the RHS rear mudguard. The Toyota 3Y engine comes standard with a mechanical fuel pump that has an extra bypass outlet, so what I did was plumb that back to the vent outlet on the tank which works well, but then I needed to vent the tank and that is when I fitted the vented cap.

    So, now I'm wondering what would happen if I slapped a T piece into the return line just before it enters the tank and then reinstalled the looped bit of hardline, thus allowing me to reinstate the       non-vented cap, but still allow venting to take place. 

    Is the returning fuel likely to push itself uphill through the loop or do you think it will flow back into the tank as long as my loop is above the level of the top of the fuel tank?

    Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

     

  6. Seeking advice - any input would be greatly appreciated.

    Checking out the engine specs for the mighty Toyota 3Y engine, the factory thermostat opens at 85 degrees Celsius and they state that normal operating temps are anywhere between 85 and 100 degrees C.

    Using a laser temp gun, I've been able to ascertain that at operating temp out on the open road the van runs a top of 97C measured at the thermostat housing (the last engine point before the cooling system). Idling in my driveway all day long I'm also measuring a top of 97C.

    I don't know enough about Toyota engines to determine whether my current temps are too high, but it does make me nervous that I seem to be fairly close to the maximum temp stated by Toyota.

    • Like 1
  7. Hiya All,

    Is there anyone out there in old school land who is running a 3Y carburettor engine in either a Hilux or a Hiace and can check out the engine operating temperature for me with one of those laser type temp guns?  I'd like to determine the temps on both the top water neck and the lower thermostat housing when fully warmed up.

    I've tried Google but couldn't find anything and my workshop manual only provides the stats on the factory thermostat which fully opens at 85C.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ta in advance.

  8. Jeez, the mesh in my little fresh air flap was a real bugger to paint. Even although I was applying really thin coats, I still managed to clog up a few of the gaps in the mesh. Was able to clear the holes with my thinnest bradawl, but it kept chipping the paint, so it took a few iterations of poking and painting before I was happy.

    Doesn't look too shabby.

    20231020_114922.jpg.8113f5801ad5e5c562b91b5c803bae9d.jpg

    Popped it back in with some fresh stainless fixings and it should be good for another few years.

    20231020_121932.jpg.f8d5d81d9349831fd6c3f4a1622465fc.jpg

    Oh, almost forgot to say that I found a perfect looking rubber seal in my stash to replace the sad looking cork original.

    20231020_122038.jpg.b82651cb8ccfd749382b9f9611203730.jpg

    Unfortunately, I don't have enough to complete the job, so I'll grab some more from my local rubber place when I'm next in town.

     

    • Like 9
  9. The mesh covered bit of my fresh air flap has been in the vinegar bath for a few days, but is still looking a bit grotty. The mesh looks a bit delicate so I'm loath to hit the thing with a flapper disk, but I did give it a light sand and then chucked some rust converter on the parts that look a bit dodgy. 

    While I wait for that to dry, I thought I'd move on to the next item on my snag list.

    So, from day dot I've had issues with my left-hand headlight. At first I attributed the issue to a blown sealed beam - the one on the right in this photo.

    20230505_122042.jpg.40bc3c0c7d1be4ba04fe2d8f5e7389f4.jpg

    A while back I fitted a new set of H4 units with LED globes, but was still having issues with both lights staying on high beam no matter what position the dip switch was in.

    So, first thing this morning I dusted off my copy of the factory wiring diagram and cracked straight into tracing the issue.

    20231020_092926.jpg.ec5778a6eddd6127d86be66bc46a6b29.jpg

    Thought I'd start off by looking at the dip switch. This is a new unit that I fitted a while back.

    20231020_083247.jpg.7dec547ad6b3a07858e4acfb98ccc54b.jpg

    Popped both headlights out and did a continuity test on the wires running from the dip switch to each headlight. Quickly found an issue with the low beam wire on the left-hand headlight. No power getting through.

    Grovelled under the dash and discovered that someone had swapped the earth and low beam wires around on the little inline connector. I suspect this happened when the painters re-installed the headlights after the bare metal restoration. Easy enough to do especially with all the overspray that the mucky buggers had got on the main wiring loom.

    20231020_091523.jpg.9f60e79ffe22a01bfef89d6a1385f8ae.jpg

    Anyway, with that sorted I've ticked another item off the "to do" list.

    Thanks for looking.

     

     

    • Like 8
  10. Yesterday I took the Thames through to my mate Grant's place. I've been having a problem selecting 5th gear and figuring out what is wrong is a two person job, so Grant being the GC that he is stuck his hand up to help. We chucked the thing on his 4 poster and I worked the gear shift while he checked out what was going on. Turns out that the angle on one of my morse cable holding brackets was slightly off thus causing the inner cable to snag up when trying to select 5th. I elongated one of the mounting holes on the bracket to change the angle whilst Grant painted the fender on a customer's Holden and we then headed out for a test run.

    Learnt a few things during that drive. Firstly, my new Speco temp gauge is reading high by about 7 degrees C according to Grant's laser temp gun. Secondly my fuel gauge is pretty accurate in that when the needle is on empty the tank is actually empty. Oops. Luckily another mate of ours saved us from a long walk home by riding to the rescue with a can of fuel. I certainly won't be making that mistake again.

    Anyway, today I thought I'd turn my attention to my much-neglected fresh air flap. Originally this was going to be replaced with my home-made a/c evaporator unit, but since that plan has been shelved, I thought I'd give the flap a birthday.

    The flap mechanism is made up of two components. The underside is a meshed insect / stone guard that was looking pretty second hand. The top is covered in overspray and the bottom is sporting a mixture of surface rust and freshish chassis black from when I did the underside.

    20231018_104736.jpg.3a78395039d5d79a518dc3659eaeb494.jpg

     

     20231018_104751.jpg.289652636e45cb41cd23461baa618bbd.jpg

    Started off by dropping it into a vinegar bath where it will languish for a day or two.

    20231018_110526.jpg.0d246b2ecc7e8ca621424caf4da71d76.jpg

    The actual flap door looks really good on the cabin side, but not so good underneath.

    20231018_104828.jpg.fe0d04ca54aca3e00e97e9a0bb56eb24.jpg

    The cork seal was far gone so I scraped that out and then sanded down the surface rust.

    20231018_120049.jpg.867ac5a649753700746aef94dd807a82.jpg

    A bit of primer and a few coats of satin black and it's looking a bit better.

    20231018_131112.jpg.3b4bddc5137730f8709eac08d96f14c0.jpg

    More tomorrow.

     

    • Like 9
  11. It's Thames day 601 according to the Captain's Log and I thought I'd spend it by building another iteration of the gauge panel.

    As mentioned yesterday, the current angle of the gauges makes them very difficult to read from the driving position, so I figured that a little angle was called for.

    First step was to banish the aluminium filler panel to the naughty corner and figure a way to angle the gauges.

    Started by blowing the dust off the cheapie individual gauge pods that I bought a while back:

    20230914_111723.jpg.f58a4f424b69db46aa508a84da445d7d.jpg

    Stripped the mounting feet off the buggers and attached them together with a bit of threaded rod, some nuts and washers like so:

    20231011_115721.jpg.f307a85f8a98f9d156d5844d97192571.jpg

    Whipped up some dodgy looking templates for a set of mounting brackets that will attach the threaded rod to the bolts that I glued to the back of the dash to hold my original gauge panel.

    20231011_115837.jpg.e9d6b4e7c02334575096a0efd897b4d8.jpg

    Carved some replicas out of some angled aluminium off-cuts, poked a few holes and bolted things into position.

    20231011_130713.jpg.5fbc6a208f65c4f5d66af645cb54c47b.jpg

    Doesn't look so great in the above photo, but the gauge visibilty is perfect from the driving position.

    The next photo shows a side view and clearly shows the angle of the new setup.

    20231011_131105.jpg.a5e861e38ea54629d41aac6b4684f5c6.jpg

    As you can see in the above photo, I'm still using the slip collars to give the gauges that countersunk look.

    I want to drop the pods slightly to get things more centralised in the opening, so I'll fine tune the mounting brackets tomorrow.

    Then all I need to do is figure out how I'm going to build a backing plate to neaten things up.

    Thanks for looking.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 8
  12. It's almost two weeks since my last Thames update and I'm embarrassed to say that I am still mucking about with wiring.

    Whilst grovelling around under the dash wiring up my power steering pump it dawned on me that now that I have changed direction in terms of the style of the internal aircon unit that I am planning to fit, I'm no longer going to be able to access the new fuse blocks that I mounted earlier in the piece.

    20230328_115037.jpg.d84ac9096a2235b40fd3de3c6722a500.jpg

    So with no choice but to re-do the job, I disconnected the wiring and removed the fuse panel. Luckily, I hadn't yet re-wrapped the harness.

    20230929_093754.jpg.749a63862c9f5357eefaabc8041a9d4c.jpg

    Looked around for an alternative location for the fuse panel that will be well out of the way and decided to tuck it up under the dashboard on the passenger side.

    Found two existing mounting holes in the dash lip and figured I might be able to attach the opposite side of the panel to one of the metal cable holder tabs that is welded in place.

    20231004_115905.jpg.66d4d4ae2e4f329276fb4432fc7badb9.jpg

    After some fiddling about with a cardboard template, I bent up some metal plate, poked a few holes in it and gave it a spritz of the usual satin black.

    20231003_115325.jpg.cb3eed2910ee4990cc18781302d4f33d.jpg

    Let things dry off overnight, then transferred the fuse blocks and relays across from the old panel.

    20231004_115012.jpg.a2634445b162392d3a368c736d108dca.jpg

    I had to replace the wires for the main fuse as the originals were too short, but with that done I was able to mount the panel in his new home. A bit tricky wedging myself under the dashboard to take a photo for you, so apologies for the quality, but you get the idea.

    20231004_121756.jpg.091a77fa04eed846b5a39ce4422a708c.jpg

     And now I'm so looking forward to extending the rest of the wires to the new panel location.

    Not.

     

    • Like 8
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