MaxPower

is this where i post? have a free xr200 motor in tepuke if your ever passing by. going in the skip soon. cheers

I'm sure some booze can be stored in support vehicle..

still keen to be support driver. have my own vehicle\trailer combo if that helps (would rather take my own if thats ok) looking forward to it. november yeah?

Iforce isn't working? is there another easy way to put up pics? will try just off my computer. drew a picture of how it works,

does anyone know what trailer hubs are made of for certain? are they cast iron, cast steel? have turned down a n.o.s trojan hub for a spare wheel holder hinge which will mount up on my rear bumper . have seen one done before guess it should take a bit of weight with some good welding. turned it down with an angle grinder worked really well as i don't have a lathe. Looking out for some heavy 4x2 box and heavy 2x2 to glue up a rear bumper as the rear chassis rail looks weak as. got the 80 series callipers apart, getting them blasted this week, brought a seal kit for them too. also came across a 80 series steering box apparently they are a good upgrade but can't find out why? finished welding up the roof today came up better than i thought it would.

those diffs are semi floating if it has a cover on the back? if it does have a cover no amount of anything will remove the axle as they have big c clips holding the axle in place, pull them out and axle will come out. if it doesn't have a cover on the back then its a full floating axle which i don't think it will be. have spare axles if you get stuck, or whole diff. disclaimer; info only valid for early 70 series (late 80's early 90's)

quite like that! tenants just trashed our house big time so funds are unfortunately going to have to be moved into that drama for a few weeks. if its still up in a few weeks I might grab it.

theres a guy down your way who is wreaking quite a few of these on trademe, would it not be better to go through him? Im terrible at making a price for things, plus he should really upgrade to 80 series callipers as they bolt on and are bigger. would like to keep the hubs and stubs sorry.

Have found that the handbrake cable is fairly tight from lifting the body, will look into getting a new one made, can't seem to find a way to make it work nicely. have extended 3 fuel lines, been ignoring the gear shifter boots and winch lever for now, they will need tweaking. like to look into removing the load sensing proportioning valve attached to the rear diff but not sure if I should?. would like to eventually run rear disc brakes if possible so won't be needing it then I think. moved the radiator down 50mm, will require some angle sheet to cover up the gaps this has created. another issue is the sway bar is now ballsed up from the new leafs, am looking into making some sway bar disconnects if i can use a mates lathe. Only have two patches left to weld in on the roof, need to sell some more shit to get the windscreen put in after I paint the roof.

yes I only need a few bits off of it. Its a bj70 3b diesel. luxurys include back seat heater unit, air con.

My wife has lost her shit at how high this thing sits now she's not that tall but I'm 6 4" I'm thinking I should have only put a 1" body lift in there, what do you guys think? Its very easy to work under now though, no struggling to jam a jack under there somewhere.

Lift 'kit' turned up 25 days later. Also scored some larger 4 piston 80 series callipers from my father in law and pinched some trailer stubs off him for a future spare tyre swing. might whip the bottom leaf out of the rear leafs as it is going to get caught up on shit, front leafs appear to be same size as the ones i pulled out? also i think the front leafs had been installed wrong way around by the previous owner? anyone know which way the wrap faces? put the wrap to the front, gave me more wheelbase and moved the tyre away from the exhaust. haven't checked if anything is rubbing yet.

Picked up this beast from north of auckland. was a bit dodgy had no trailer lights, tow ute had no wof, no reg, kays out, speedo had (coughs) stopped working, and had to pick up my wife from the airport at 5am with this heap in tow. she's not too happy been gone 5 weeks and come home with 3 extra cars outside and the carport in a state. On the plus side it runs and has all the parts missing or broken on mine. Has new tyres too.

finished glueing up the exhaust, bit ruff with the ss arc rods but hey thats what i have and no leaks so far. painted it up fitted it, last thing is to weld some mounts on. sounds nice and quiet at idle happy as with the muffler. heres some crappy pics. am off to whangaparoa tomorrow to pick up a rusty truck for spares. not looking forward to going to auckland. lift kit has taken almost 30 days to arrive still not here yet.

hi there have said to @johnnyfive that i can drive a support vehicle if needed, whats the go just take a trailer and some spare fuel and 2t oil? have a crappy generic first aid kit, epirb, radio. anything special i need to know?

sweet as will ask a fella from the toyota dealership tomorrow, he's been good to deal with, not the usual whats the number plate deal. yeah I'm happy with it, carport is a state at the mo haha

cool as my father in law has some early 90's 80 series callipers and discs he said i could have, will take a look at them and see if they are betterer. have also asked someone on trademe for a price for a 80 series non abs booster. new to toyotas so still learning the lego

sweet have just started patching up the roof, will fish oil the shit out of it after I paint the roof, I always seem to stall my projects when i find rust, this time I'm just going to use the vehicle, keep it dry, and look at doing a proper job later on (yeah right..) good that I've got full floaters i guess, kp i will be picking up the spares truck in probably 2 or 3 weeks at the most away. wouldn't mind knowing a bit more about a brake upgrade. disc rear would be choice too but man parts are expensive on cruisers , not like the mitsis I'm used to. the exhaust flexi i brought is too long so have ordered a stubby one.

bit de motivated today, car has rust around the drivers side roof, cut it open some more and found this shit so i guess i can kill what i can see and weld some patches, find a rust free roof (unlikely) or take it to a panel beater. i find it hard to pay other people to do work though cause I'm a tight arse. any ideas? been looking at getting a bigger booster for it too as the brakes were shite before i put the bigger tyres on, guess they will be worse now. does anyone know the differences between a full floating rear axle and a semi? from what i have read the semis have a diff cover to access the 'c' clips to remove the axles and the FF diffs have no cover?

had a look on the cert website and I think I should be ok, I can bring my exhaust out the side of my cruiser behind the drivers door? this is just a rough position for reference. theres no opening windows behind the drivers door etc. also would like to weld the exhaust hangers to the body mounts that come off the chassis, I can't see that being a problem? thanks

heres a size comparison between 31's 32's and 35's thought I might use the spare 32's for a trailer build one day

so i put the 2" blocks in instead. before after i just don't like the look of all those beat up surfs you see around with big body lifts and small worn out mud tyres, thats my reason for not liking body lifts etc, the pto lever or hole will need modding, rounded off a bolt because i was being lazy, everything else seems fine brake lines and stuff, the fuel tank is mounted to the body so didn't have to do anything there. am going to work on the exhaust some more today father in law sells 4wd camper trailers and roof top tents etc, he would like to whack on a roof tent for a show in taupo in september so need to get shit done.

cheers mof, would like to stay away from mucking around with shackles, with the fan shroud i was hoping i could just re-drill the shroud holes an inch higher\lower, dunno. the guy who sent me the blocks sent the wrong kit in the first place so have a 2" body lift kit here if i really need it but wouldn't like to. did your mate move his front diff forward? haven't looked at the transfer lever or fuel filler hose etc yet. does anyone have some mags the same as my rear ones for sale? they are different to the fronts. brand is enkei, think they are a 3 piece size is 15" x 9"

from what the internet says it should all be fine with 1" body lift, 2" springs and I will move the diff forward 1" too. hope it works! nah haven't driven it incase I fuck something, 37's must be tough on the drive train.