fletch

I have left this to the last minute hoping it would all fall into place. 

Unfortunately not. Work has fucked me

Got a bike, bed, permission etc

Thanks for the offer offer of accom @cletus and @datlow. Should be able to fill my place with one of the last minute jokers who have to give j5 a gobby.

Spoke to Shaun about this. He has tickled many 185's. 

Has all the port timing for it, and the down low on the bearing lubrication. 

I'll bring it on thursday

4 hours ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

 

When you say a tapping point on the inlet side above the oil level, do you mean the one that has the nipple on it next to the standard breather? Trying to find out what that one is for and not having any luck. It seems to plumb into the intake on the standard intake from what I can see in pictures, but I don't have a standard intake to compare (using a Freddy plenum).

 

Sorry I should have said into the sump, not the inlet manifold. It allows the blow by a path to the head then out through the breathers and the oil can flow back through the drain holes with no back pressure

4 hours ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

 

Engine seems to be from a Stagea judging from the sump (alloy and has the holes on each side welded up). If you are referring to the oil drain on the exhaust side at the front, it doesn't have that one. The flange is there but no hole is tapped. 

 

Nice! The 25det neo head is the best. It's a solid lifter head, same ports as gtr but with vct. Some people are making silly power with stock unopened motors

Just buy a set of reimax gears for your stock 25 pump. The n1 pump pumps a LOT more oil and this extra volume means there is less metal in the gears.

That's the best value upgrade. There are lots of copy n1 pumps about.

Edit- I know a few limmy bashing drifters who have had no issues with the reimax gears. You have to disassemble your pump first to measure the gears to double check the diameter

Also, the head drain that everybody does, is actually a sump vent.

The oil drain holes from the head are not huge and at high revs oil pools in the head as the blow by is trying to get back up the same holes the oil wants to gravity drain down.

Build a catch can and plumb it to the rocker covers and a tapping point on the inlet side above the oil level.

Have you got a r32 or 34 25det? The 33 has an extra oil drain at the front due to the vct being a constant loss system when it's not engaged. The 34 vents much less oil into the head

22 hours ago, Yowzer said:

Do the cameras still freak out with the engine off?

Another issue could be poor ignition coil earth or faulty coils. This causes a massive spike back through the 12V that can cause all sorts of haywire behaviour. Falcons for example are great for this and it trips out all the vehicle control systems. Honda's induce a spike into the crank angle circuit and causes the ecu to lose crank sync and ends up firing the wrong coil. Something like this could also freak the camera out.

Non resistor plugs in a resistor plug engine?

1 hour ago, ThePog said:

Yea so that engine...

It actually only needs a crank and a conrod, plus bearings, seals and gaskets. Trundles have cranks for $250, con rods for 80. So I reckon for $500 - $600 I can sort it out.

 

i can pick it up from Trundle and drop off in mid october if necessary

You can also loop your test wire through the clamp to increase the reading if your meter does not go low enough.

Eg loop it 10 times through the clamp to move the decimal place by 1

6 hours ago, Valiant said:

Have a measure up and contact Safe R Brakes, BNT, or CBC. There is a good chance that something else uses seals of the same dimensions.

CBC will be able to repair your pistons too.

 

 

I did this with my 2 pot sumitomo calipers of the same vintage and cortina pistons and seals went straight in.

I'll bet there is something in your size from some other car

Edit- I dunno about wanganui, but bunter at brake and clutch in new Plymouth is a gc with all the knowledge.

12 hours ago, datlow said:

oh yeah  theres a spare bed at waikaremoana if anyones keen (just have to put up with 4 others) ? $35 With sheets included

pencil me in plz

whoa, a year later...

so i got the bottom end together

But to get to this point took a few steps back and forward.

I opened up the combustion chamber a bit and it turned out i would be around 12.5:1 comp which is not daily driver material.

The bore spacing of the head chambers to the bores is lol so i had to mark each one to the head. The head gasket is also terrible spacing, but some guy in the us is getting cometic to make him a custom one to his design so ill try and buy one of them

Gave the piston a bit of dish to drop the comp a little. Not sure if we did it the right way, but it worked out sweet

I bought my 2 post with top plate from a workshop that had 90mm concrete with no mesh.

It used to wobble a bit with a car on it so they had 2 bits of 100x50x6 about 1.5m long made up that picked up the 3 outer bolts on the feet and had a bolt in each end. Worked great for them.

I gave it to some o.s joker from Wellington ways for his host.

I have 200mm+ and its solid as.

3 hours ago, kyteler said:

Also, lol, GN. 

The dairy farmer's bike of choice for his Filipino worker to ride. 

No power, no problems. 

My old man bought one for my sisters new townie partner when he came to work on the farm could buy a gn125 ag spec -knobblys, jacked front guard, handle bar guards for mudbug 125 money. plus it's a bit shorter.

Turned out he is a mad cnut, and the tacho spent its whole life in the red until the cable snapped. 

Fuckin thing still goes as backup bike across 2 farms...

1 hour ago, Kimjon said:

Has a base (bump). Its 3000kg quite compact in size.

My floor is/should be 100mm, with steel mesh. But there's expansion relief cuts very close to where I'm thinking of putting it. Would it be better to cut out the floor and re-pour the concrete?

Nah, you'll be sweet. The mesh holds it together.

Those baseplate models have a bigger foot than the tall ones so will spread the load better/be more stable anyway

Spend ages measuring, leveling, measuring etc to get it square so it goes up and down nicely and has no sticky points.

It won't hurt doing it now. May need some shims to get it perfect. 

How about a Hitachi SU? Aka flat top from 260z? They have an accelerator pump. People think they are shit, but they are just 40 years old and need a re kit.

Has it got abs? Might need 'cycling' to free it up?

Look up nico club forum. They had all the fsm's for all the different years and models

I did the same on heaps of rb's 10-15 years ago and it was usually just a few pins difference. 

I think it's way easier to have the correct loom if you are trying to run a  stock ecu as there are sometimes random resistors taped into the loom in different models

Are the brake lines to the cylinders metric or imperial?

Pre 71 cedrics had imperial fittings. 71 on had metric.

On SAU its a common mod to do the 324mm rotors with the 280mm calipers you have and some adapters.

I think it just fits under the wheels you have.

+1 for just getting it out and driving tho!

Snap off every 2nd tooth?

Drill a hole in ya thermostat so it can flow during warm up and don't tell ya old man?