fletch

Maybe a bit. 

Yes you would need to spec the correct size drive. I see they sell a 5.5kw one on tm for $980. That would be plenty. What's a hoist draw? Mine is 11-12a so 3kw. Should be sweet.

I suppose by the time you add a bit of wiring/switchgear/plugs it would add up. 

But if you haven't got 3 phase to your meter, it will still be cheaper. Especially if you order one from jack ma for 1/3 the price.

Yea those meters pictured can measure 1 or 2 or 3 phase.

I have 2 phase to my house and 1 phase loops across to the 3rd line of the meter and feeds the hot water cylinder.

My bill shows 3 phases/lines of metering and the price is the same as single phase.

Cheapest option will probably be to buy one of those ali x variable speed drives that take 230v single phase and 400v 3 phase out. Just set it to 50hz and fix it directly to the hoist. Only turn it on to move the hoist.

sr20 swap plz

If you peel the top gasket off there will probably be a hole/groove into the base if the carb

1 hour ago, Adoom said:

Pics too huge... I also have the head. I was planning on using it. I had gone through the effort of hand cutting new gaskets. But then the tuner I was going to use was like "LOLWAT! Find a normal one".

Looks like a u11 version

I would try and borrow a sensor to try first, 

Then 2nd, try new wires from the ecu to the sensor. It could be a bad connection somewhere leaking a bit of voltage into the map signal wire.

19 hours ago, anglia4 said:

I have a TF125 that I brought as a spare engine for my bucket bike.

Its been painted grey on nearly every surface but the seat, has no electrics, you have to dump the clutch to shut it off, no muffler, rediculously bent handle bars and foot pegs. Picked it up in Waitara.

I use it to Harrow my paddock.

This was the first attempt, hence helmet. The harrows are a much improved version 2.0 now, with chain link fence and an old tyre included.

Nice. I was wondering if I could get away with a mudbug or trojan to tow some tyres around. My tractor is too big for my paddocks.

1 hour ago, HighLUX said:

4 stroke farm bikes just wont have the same animal herding ability

NZ farm animals are genetically ingrained to move to the sound of a good nang 

4 stroke borbs will just cause confusion 

1 hour ago, johnnyfive said:

I agree 100%. My experience recently tells me that Honda CT only excites animals when you half step a gearshift and sit on limiter. 

First day with the TS185, a simple tang tang idle has animals moving very rapidly.

 

Judging from the what I hear over the fence, DR200 Trojan on the limiter is a regular soundtrack, especially at breakfast/dinner time.

Lol, so much truth.

Farm bikes in a nutshell !

I crewed on a drag car in oz for a bit and we were sponsored by a fuel company that made ethanol from used brewers grain.

A few places did a bunch of testing found it made more power than corn ethanol.

/I wonder what the breweries here do with their used grain? Probably animal feed

1 hour ago, Yowzer said:

VQ waterpumps run off the timing chain. It's behind that black plate on the right.

Still not much wrap but it has teeth. I do not really enjoy replacing them as they tend to seize in there.

Lol, I have a fwd maxima with the early faulty guides. The plastic bit behind the red square slides down and the tensioner hasn't got enough extension to tighten the chain.

I have found that if you leave the car off for a week or 2, the piston will retract enough to start the car pinned for a full Italian tune up. The chain goes so fast it pushes the plastic bit up the guide before the tensioner piston can be pushed out and shes fixed for 6 months!

Just now, Kimjon said:

 

Vehicles total weight 2500kg

Front weight 1500kg

Rear weight 1000kg

Lift rated to 2500kg.

So in this situation the lift is only rated to carry 1250kg on the front, same on the back arms.

So 1500kg front weight of vehicle is 250kg over the 1250kg rated limit of the lifts arms.

Interesting stuff.

?

That's why they have different length arms so you can put the light end of the vehicle further from the centre.

I usually just give them the rock test once they are off the ground to see if it feels right....

had a mate with a z powered 1200. z18et head, z22 block, z20 crank or something close to that. ran an early link. went very well.

plus its nissan lego so mechanically you can do anything.

ka24de+t

Can you take a photo of the wiring inside the terminal box of the motor? 

It says 400v star, (Y) so it should be able to do 230v delta with a Chinese vsd or 2nd hand trademe one.

If you can get one cheap it will be the easiest way 

@Ja1lb8 made a jig to hold rims for a large wheel importer friend of ours.

It was cheaper to buy them blank and drill them to suit, than stock every offset and hole pattern.

It was pretty rugged. (the drilling, not the fixture) and they would just go at it and it seemed to be all good.

/depends if you have enough meat

some good advice above.

the reason your mesh was at the bottom of your slab is the concrete guys hate putting it on chairs as there is the chance the mesh gets bent from standing on it and can end up right at the surface and start poking out when doing the final finish on the surface. It is a massive ball ache for them.

as its not a large area, any old bit of mesh will probably suffice.

for the relatively small extra cost of going deeper, its worth it to go a bit overboard to give you piece of mind

I chemset all my studs in. I have seen a digger try to pull one out once and it picked up half the floor

can somebody recommend me a fuel pump for my datsuns?

one of them has an inline electric pump, the inline vibrator type ones, that has been running sweet for a long time.

I bought another cheap one and it lasted a disappointingly long 45 seconds. @Carsnz123 was lol at my misfortune.

the trademe seller refunded me the money straight away and said dont bother sending it back, obviously no great loss...

I dont want a mechanical one as they are often parked up for ages, and the carb dries up so i have to crank for an eternity to get fuel back to the carb.

also dont want one that sounds like your mums half flat vibrator like my current one

Vacuum brake booster leak? Cant remember if you were running a booster. Try disconnect that?

51 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

I’m bringing this up again. The small hoses that used to come out of the water bridges may be there for a reason.

Yea that loop that went through the TB bled the rear  ridge to the front right? Can you just whack a bit of hose in to let any steam/bubbles through to the front?

Was that TB water feed also a bit of a bypass/air bubble bleed that you have removed? Could you try reinstall it bypassing the tb?

12 minutes ago, _Matt said:

 

thats the idle air (AAC valve) behind the throttle cable bracket. give that a strip and clean first

the 2nd throttle cable attachment is for the cruise control actuator cable, and the cam bit behind that is to make the throttle open slowly at first to make it easier to control at low rpm

that black cylinder is the traction control motor. it drives a 2nd butterfly in front of the main throttle and shuts when it detects you having fun

Quote

pics of throttle body?

from memory the 41 has a wax thermostat expandy thing on the bottom of the throttle body that ups the idle for cold start and the hot water pipes warm it up and make it back off.

could be sticky.

or as above, pull the aac valve off and give it a lube up

Smaller pulley?

8 hours ago, Dredso said:

Do you still have the wiring diagrams available?

whats your email address? i can send you the 1998 wiring diagrams if your interested

6 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

So the cord line must be the centre of the belt then? 

Or the inside circumference, plus the outside circumference divided by two.  

Maybe not quite. But yeah.

Get one that's too long next time you go to nick a part, or an old one from somewhere and cut it. 

Wrap it round the pulleys and trim it to the perfect length and take it to supercheap and hold it up to all the ones they have to find a match

Not a bad effort for a farmer..