fletch

Time for a big block 2zr-fxe ?

45 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Thinking about your thread update today,

You say it doesnt drive real nice at 100kph?

Weren't these a sports car of sorts?  Is there a reason why it doesn't have the nimble cat like road holding? 

 

Mum had a supercharged jaaaag, it drove like shit at anything under 115kmh. Had to concentrate to keep it on the road.

Once it was sitting on 120+ it was a dream

5 hours ago, tortron said:

Surely some morey's fed in at 8000 rpm will fix it.

I'm a fan of the Italian tune up tbh.

Hondas love it

On 01/06/2022 at 14:17, Roman said:

The point of this is that you can theoretically see the rpm at which the other reflected waves would happen, outside of what's measurable.
So maybe if there was a big peak you just werent quite reaching, you could make your intake a little longer to try get to it. or whatever.
Another important implication is that if you know which reflected waves you are looking at, then if you assume that it's travelling at the speed of sound, then you know how long the tuned length is.

 

I wonder how much effect the air velocity has in the inlet. high rpm/air velocity would slow the waves outward path in the inlet?

Could be a reason for unexpected performance of odd inlet shapes, with different air velocities due to the diameter change, having an effect on the timing of the peaks?

Low oil pressure not pumping up the lifters?

Can you pull them apart and clean out like rfb skylines?

https://nzairfilter.co.nz/aem-30-8762.html

54mm d shaft disc to suit gti-r

I got one for my l20et dizzy. Looks the same as your dizzy, except for the mechanical advance. You might have to bin that part and lock it so the ecu can do the advance.

You can also buy replacement pickups. It's a lx652. Common on lots of nissan dizzys. Can't remember where I got one from

 They are 160 on rockauto. Yours should be sweet.

Dizzy looks modifiable.

Can you measure the disc diameter? It will be 50 or 54mm. I'll find the link.

The pickup will still work, just have to rewire it. Replacement pickups can still be had from rock auto.

I have a spare I can send you to trial fit if required.

1 hour ago, tortron said:

Tow dolly a fwd nissan with no axles

Should I put a bolt and washers through the hubs to hold the bearings together when rolling it on/off/travelling

Or don't worry about it

 

 

Front wheels on the dolly

Has it got bolt on hubs or the press together ones?

If the 2nd type, can you just put the axles back in and tie the inner ends out of the way so they can still spin a bit?

On 16/05/2022 at 03:18, jono007 said:

So the time has come to invest in a hoist, I have found a Motorex 2 POST CAR HOIST CLEARFLOOR 4.5TON TON (MOTOREX) | Trade Me Marketplace which as of this Thursday has free freight to New Plymouth, a $200 saving, nice.

Or am I best to spend a little more and go for Car Hoist - Peak | Trade Me Marketplace , It is purely for home use, probably have a car parked up on it and never moved again Im that useless at completing things.

I see @yoeddynz you had or have a Motorex? Still happy? No issues? Thanks and any info be helpful.

 

There's a joker in town who sells and fits them. I'll see if I can get his contact. They are around 3500 I think, plus fitting $$$$$$. I'll come help you fit it for beers.

Multiple charging systems ok. As the battery nears 14.4v or whatever the charger will back off.

That redarc unit looks like the ticket. All in one. Set and forget etc etc.

They are good as they can take down to 9v input and charge a 12v battery properly. Good for when you have a long cable from front to rear of vehicle and say a caravan, but still get good voltage at the battery.

How much is it?

2 hours ago, ThePog said:

Yo yo.

I am in need of some discussion and suggestions regarding power on the Dynafari, here is the situation;

I have an 80w solar panel mounted on the roof of the truck. This currently runs my 12v camping cooler through a shitty old car battery.

I have another 80w solar panel that can potentially be mounted on the truck also.

I have a small solar controller that will do either 12 or 24v, so either one or both of those panels.

I have the aforementioned 12v cooler that I kind of want to run independent of the truck main batteries so it doesn't drain them while camping.

I have a winch that I bought that is 12v, it recommends a minimum 650cca battery to drive it.

I have two 24v to 12v dcdc converters in the cab to run the 12v stuff, stereo and wipers etc. These work ok but sometimes don't play nice with the stereo, probably a low voltage thing. i.e. the stereo sometimes doesn't turn on.

I plan to buy a hybrid deep cycle 12v battery and mount it somewhere in the truck, probably under the deck.

That battery can run the cooler, probably the winch and *maybe* the cab 12v stuff which I think will help the general reliability of the 12v system.

So there are a few potential setups and it is not obvious to me what the best way to go is.

Do I keep the deep cycle battery charged with the solar and keep it independent of the truck main system?

Do I also hook it up to the cab 12v and charge it with solar?

Do I charge it from the cab 24v system with a specific charger?

Do I charge the truck 24v system with the solar panels, and hence keep the 12v battery juiced from the 24v?

Too many options... giz some opinion..

My opinion, 12v solar charger and buy a decent 24-12v charger that only runs when the engine is running.

That leaves the 24v system alone and shouldnt need solar top up as your not draining it all night.

Link https://www.hobbycorner.co.nz/product/brake-cleaner-plus-500mls/w0089010810.aspx

We buy it from some engineering supplies place in bulk, the fitters have 20L drums of it 

9 hours ago, kws said:

Just noticed mitre10 has a 4l tin of crc brakleen on their site for $34, which doesn't seem like a bad deal. 

The wurth stuff is better. Easier on your skin and some plastics too. I use it for everything at work and home

What's inside the dizzy?

I have a similar era one from a l28et that I changed out the trigger disc for a 24 tooth one and got a more modern pickup for it.

Yours looks a bit similar. 

9 minutes ago, tortron said:

 

Oh I will probably do a turbo suitable exhaust too, bluebird doesn't appear to have a cat, because NZDM maybe, so Clint will cert that no worries 

I just cut the turbo down pipe under the motor and migged the stock exhaust to it for max stealth/cbf 

Did a +t on a u12 sr20 with u13 turbo parts a long time ago.

Turbo, manifold, injectors, ecu, loom, intercooler. 

That's it.

I diverted the coolant hoses off the throttle body to the turbo, tee'd the oil pressure sensor for the oil feed, and there is a boss in the block where the oil drain can be drilled.

Get a friend to gold the duster gun on the rocker cover breather to pressurise the crankcase a bit and drill away. The air will keep the swarf out. Tap it out for a 1/2 brass fitting. 

Will take 10psi easy

We used to run a misprint with an e13 nissan at 9000+ rpm and had trouble with ewp's dying. They were hard mounted to the motor and the braided wires to the brushes would dissolve.

We moved the pump so it just hung from a bit of hose and lasted 2 seasons 

44 minutes ago, crash said:

Do these have PID control? Have a customer that wants to put one on a constant pressure pump system. / Thread hyjack

I think so. Look up the nflixin 9100 manual. Pretty sure I saw it had those functions. 

I wouldn't sell one of these to a customer.... You can get a weg drive pretty cheap, and they come with pump control software built in.

12 hours ago, SOHC said:

I am running a 3 HP motor, from a home made rotory converter, 

I just set up a 3ph 3hp mill for @Geophy using an aliexpress vfd.

He might chime in with a photo. 

Single phase 10a plug on the inlet and hard wired to the motor at the other. Added a 10k ohm variable potentiometer for speed control. And fwd/rev switch. Was around $150 delivered.

Probably better/easier than a rotary converter.

Cant get the link to work right at the moment.

Can probably swing by Wednesday evening if that suits? 

You should buy it so you can cart @Geophy sweet mill that I haven't finished modifying back.

You could probably get 1500 for a rb30 runner.

25de neo not worth much. The heads are not as good as the turbo head so no real demand

2 hours ago, Roman said:

Yeah I've thought about that - but I'd need 4 of them machined exactly the same, and I'm not sure how I'd secure them in position. 
 

I'm pretty sure those lockout pins only go in 1 spot. Not all 4 cavities.

I was investigating a Subaru one once and they have a pin that limits the advance until it has enough oil pressure to retract the pin. That was only on one of the cavities 

On 07/11/2021 at 22:38, Valiant said:

There was talk of getting rid of LPG recently. 

Won't happen for a bit. Lpg is made in the naki in a few plants. Its road, rail, and sea tankered around the country.

The reticulated gas in chch and other places comes this way. Wont get turned off for ages

Also CNG sharn, is only compressed methane cos we took the lpg out of it. Has way lower energy density/cant be liquified easily so needs heaps of steel to contain it.

/ling we have a trailer that weighs 25 ton empty and holds 3 ton of compressed methane. 7 cylinders about 500 diameter, 40foot long, 2 inch thick.....

5 minutes ago, oldrx said:

If I am wiring a 20 Ohm resistor in line between oil pressure sensor and dash, how many watts should the resistor be? 

For an oil light?

If you have a dead short for a lamp, 7.2w will flow at 12v.

What is the resistance of the lamp?

7 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

 

You'd like stainless stick welding. Super easy and it comes out delicious looking 

Yea just mash it in there and it looks like a pro did it..

+1 for a bit of ss wire on some crusty mild.

Also, like sheepers said, dont need a foot pedal. Just set the downslope and when things start getting a bit spicy, let off the trigger and back on before it shuts off. Couple of them to get you out of trouble and youre away again