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Posts posted by fletch
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RS have most caps. Pretty fast delivery too.
Make sure to get one with 400v or higher rating for the run cap to make it last
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What the other guys said.
Want me to come and have a gander? I use the same fittings on our vib truck accumulators. Work can probably sponsor you one if you need it
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1 hour ago, sentra said:
have you ever managed it? we tried sending a little 1hp 4 pole induction motor to the moon but it wouldn't go any faster than about 200hz, i think the rotor iron runs out of ability to conduct(?) the field
maybe with a higher voltage, its definitely on the to-do list.
I didn't want to recommend anything actually dangerous.
It's usually the other bits that fail in my experience.
The fan comes loose and the motor overheats, the poorly balanced 3rd world cast pulley flys apart or causes the motor feet to crack. The hard drawn ancient copper wire inside the half exposed plastic pipe that's just wrapped around the motor terminals comes loose etc...
We had a 3hp motor at maybe 160-170hz break apart. Probably it's the larger inertia of the bigger motor that can cause all the runaway damage. Some mad dogs on a course I was on had video of motors disintegrating at 300hz.
Your probably safe with a decent motor to go pretty fast.
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46 minutes ago, SOHC said:
With a vfd can I increase the frequency to speed the motor up?
Yes. But motors can blow up if you spin them too fast.
Probably get at least another 20% out of it with no issues
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Any differences in water pumps and pump/crank pulley sizes?
I have been looking into RFB water pumps and pulley sizes and there are different pump fin counts and pulley sizes, some combos will overheat at idle etc
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I think my mate got a big box trailer done at the galvanizers in Stratford. They dipped it 4 times on a diagonal to get full coverage
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2 hours ago, tortron said:
@Ja1lb8built a sweet weatherboard dog haus using all the old skirting board from his house reno.
Looks better than his actual house. Haha
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On 16/04/2022 at 07:09, Willdat? said:
Drove 2GRFE family wagon from Nelson to Hanmer yesterday, 7.0L/100km is pretty respectable. Now that we have Milly the K11 it doesn't get driven around town at all.
Took our 2gr lexus gs350 from New Plymouth to rotorua to auckland loaded up with the kids and holiday shit and got 7.5L /100. And I wasn't mucking around.
I'm pleased it did that cos it fuckin drinks it in town.
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On the back burner for a few weeks while I try to get another datsun on the road.
Took the bottom end plus a spare motor to the machinist to make all the holes round and straight.
Also, many of the parts I need/want to buy are/have got really expensive. I feel like of I spread out the purchases, it will cost me less....
Bought some r35 coils and stalk adapters to make them fit. They are a possibly a bit more than I need, but they are new and will work perfectly. Other options might be a bit cheaper, but a bit of mu king around and redoing it when they don't work will cost more that doing it properley.
Next stop is modify the sump, strip and clean the head, and maybe buy some shiny bits..
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1 hour ago, mjrstar said:
I'd check the fuel rail for internal corrosion, if the car has a stock fuel rail which isn't anodised inside and has been run on ethanol it can cause pretty nasty corrosion and a partial blockage. I have seen a single piston meltdown in an evo caused by this.
I see you mentioned xspurt injectors. They have no filters in them. Could easily get shit in them?
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On 13/04/2022 at 20:54, johnny.race said:
This is a s4/s5 caliper on a Hilux diff using the 273mm OEM style rotor. It fits a 15" rim with a bit of room to spare.
This a an rx8 caliper mocked up on the s4/s5 OEM style rotor. As can be seen it won't work due to the shape of the bracket. I have not tried an OEM rx8 rotor as it's large diameter precludes use with a 15" diameter rim in any case. The caliper fits an OEM style s6 rotor but the combo will not work with a 15" rim either. I've been spending a bit of time in several disc brake rotor data bases looking for options. The s6 rotor might be able to made to work with the rx8 caliper with some diameter reduction but I'd like to avoid having to trim anything unless absolutely necessary. The s6 rotor is OEM 294mm in diameter. I'm guessing something around 285mm dia might work. Fun and games.
I put you wrong re all of the brake adaptions I sell working with 15" rims. The brackets I sell will allow the smaller types of calipers I cater for (sp20, zre152, u13) to work with 14" rims. That's current but I might have to revise this going forward with any new design packages that will allow use of later (TBA) calipers and stick to 15" rims. The pic above shows the s13 rotor (258mm dia) I typically use for most of the smaller fitments. Sitting on it is a VW golf mk5 caliper. Clearly not going to work for two reasons - rotors too small in diameter and mounting points fouling housing. They are quite deep/tall there aye? There might be a balance with a rotor in the mid 270's - 280's and it still being able to fit with a 15" rim. I might check things out.
I have a hilux diff in a datsun Cedric with s14 calipers and Hyundai sonata v6 rotors. Fits under a 15inch falcon steelie.
Haven't done anything for ages on it but got a mate to laser cut a bit of 10mm plastic as a bracket and it all fitted nicely.
The cable comes out pretty straight towards the centre of the diff
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2.5mm hole in the thermostat seems a little small. Thats a lot of time for the hot water to work its way up the outlet pipe to the thermostat, while also getting cooled on the way further delaying the thermostat seeing the real temperature.
I have crewed on a few methanol race cars and they had a 6mm or larger thermostat bypass,(either around the thermostat, or back to the pump suction to allow some water flow during warmup) with the thermostat as close to the block as possible to enable it to open once it got up to temp.
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1 hour ago, kirk28 said:
Nah it doesn’t move much at all. Remember it’s sourced here not overseas. I’ve been watching it closely last 12-14months price has not moved while petrol is up approx 60%
It's a product that is stripped out if the raw gas and sold separately as its a higher value product, and helps most plants run better as lpg in the gas processing train is a pain to deal with.
None of it gets exported, so it's straight supply/demand, and not all gas has the LPS stripped currently
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Done a few things the past week.
Scored a new mirror glass from a wrecker mate. Old one was broken, but it was good to be able to smash it out to see how it fitted in order to avoid breaking the replacement one.
Got the larger 17/16th master cylinder.
Bad thing is its only a 2 port for ABS models, where i have the non ABS lines needing a 3 port MC.
Is there a drill bit available to drill an extra hole? I think i read somewhere that its just a square hole with a the tapered cone inserted to seat the flare.
But i have seen guys who have the bling braided lines just double stack the banjo fittings on the 1 port. Maybe i can get a custom single banjo to double female flare fitting?
Also got a set of whiteline swaybars front and rear, with the adjustable links etc
A nismo coppermix twin plate clutch. Supposed to be near stock pedal feel with 590kw of holding capacity. Had this for a while, got it for a good price a while back
ecu, 84mm throttle, o2 sensor.
I even found this gear shifter boot in my stash. Who knows when i bought this, but mine is stuffed so its a win
When i got the car going, the clutch pedal was always creaky and looked out of place. I decided that since im getting older and have no back issues i would karma sutra myself under the dash and have a look. I ended up pulling the pedal out and sure enough, its from a R33. lol, now i remember doing that maybe 12+ years ago. I dont remember it fucking my back when i did it way back then, but it did this time.....
For some reason i tried to buy a new clutch and brake pedal set with all the mounts etc a while back, but only the clutch pedal bracket is available. It would seem thats its all just a bit different
The last photo shows a spacer on the front of the R33 pedal box. After a LOT of googling, i discovered that the bracket lives on the firewall on the R32. Mine is missing. Either the auto models dont have it, or i ripped it off when i put the ill fitting 33 clutch in.
Anyway, in a stroke of luck, i tried yahoo japan and found someone selling the full set
Jackpot! Was pretty cheap too. Somebody tried to snake me in the dying seconds but gave up before my autobid ran out. Phew
Also includes the throttle pedal stop and footrest which im missing.
AND the brake pedal. Because i did the old angle grinder conversion from auto to manwell pedal pad, and its a bit terrible...
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As the resident honda foamer, do you want this timing kit?
fits sohc and dohc from what i can gather. maybe D16a or something. belt, tensioner and 2 brackets
I ended up with it from somewhere along the line
pm me your address if you want it and ill post it
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17 hours ago, maddat said:
Will it be ready for nats
Hard to say. I have a few other missions on.
Might bring the 260c sedan. Need some fine weather to rearrange all the cars in my shed so I can work on it.
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3 hours ago, shrike said:
Curious on the choice behind 8.5:1 Compression ratio for the build but keen to see results
My AE111 Levin project has the 370Z rear brake setup with the Akabono rear calipers (GT4 rear hubs, toyota highlander bearings/driveflange (5x114.3) a hub ring to center the rotor on the drive flange and then an adapter for the brake) went this way as the internal handbrake on the GT4 and 370Z was similar/same size (cant remember if I worked out it could just factory GT4 shoes or if I needed to add some more lining)
Pretty sure I brought the bits before I knew that rock auto was the go but I didn't think $330 was bad for rear calipers back then (2019)
Or are you looking at the 370z brembo option?
I think 8.5 will be a good comp ratio. I only want to run petrol.
The calipers are all Evo 6-9 brembo. I can get adapters to run the 370z rear disc and the internal handbrake will still work. Plus with the r34 master it will give me a correct front:rear bias without any tomfoolery with a bias valve and whatnot
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1 minute ago, datlow said:
Sounds ideal
Is the gts4 gbox same as gtr?
Yes.
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Yes there is a definite lack of them around now. Its all thanks to the sideways hat brigade and their hectic driving style.
Gearbox might be OK. Its a late 33 box i converted to push clutch. One of the main reasons for converting to e-throttle is to be able to limit the torque in 3rd gear, and 2nd if required.
I have a complete transfer case and bearing set to give it a birthday and set up the clutches properly, plus a couple of big boxes to raid for parts should i need it. I have been converting 2wd navara box internals to fit RB for a long time now for a bunch of local drifters and have plenty of parts to keep my box going.
However, there are a bunch of crazy norweigans who do a conversion kit for the bmw DCT trans. I think it will be about 10k which is a bit much, but dreams are free. Look up HPR tuning, there's some videos of a few 2jz and rb conversions. it looks awesome
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Also got some evo brembo calipers and 320mm ish rotors. There are a few types of adapter brackets so i need to find a decent set that will pass cert, or buy some 350mm evoX rotors and adapters for the front and 350mm 370z rotors for the rear.
My overnight parts from the UAE turned up yesterday with the r34 gtr master cylinder to suit the larger calipers.
They look like the will have some stopping power. The current brakes used to run out just before i got to the top of mt messenger.
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1 hour ago, RXFORD said:
And the old alchoholic barry behind me used to build 3 stage Cng compression/refilling stations that got shipped overseas. Think they are still in use in Argentina/Malaysia etc.
Pretty impressive bit of kit to compress it in stages from transport pressure up to 3600psi.
Fuck driving round with anywhere near that kinda pressure in ya boot.
we have some trailers at work for transporting bulk CNG. they are long AF and have 7 cylinders on them. 2 inch wall thickness. 25ton empty, 28 full with all of the psi in them.
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I got this back when i was an apprentice and did many of the period correct mods. RB30DET, cut a hole in the front bumper for larger intercooler, loud exhaust, terrible surge tank in boot, poorly fitted gauges (not in the A pillar to my credit) etc etc.
It went terribly fast, and ran kind of poorly due to some lol issues that i never worked out at the time. I went overseas not long after and i kept it in an old barn on dads farm with dreams of someday spending a heap of cash on it and doing skids etc
This pic was early 2019 when we dragged it out of the shed. Lack of genuine barn dust due to being well covered for 10 years.
Nothing happened until maybe a month ago when i got the motor out and apart.
Assume the position like the rest of my shed - bonnet up..
Im not sure about the condition of the crank, it has some marks and has already been ground undersize, so i stripped a spare rb30 and will get it measured up and the machining done in July hopefully.
So far, i have nitto rods, CP pistons 8.5:1, link G4X fury, 1000cc injectors, GTX 3582r, sinco manifold
Its 4wd so i might buy one of those flash PRP block brace/adapter plates. Apparently they are necessary, as if you have 600+hp and a front LSD you will crack the block. But they are expensive, and so is a front LSD. so i might pass on that.
Also bought a bosch DBW throttle, and got a 350z pedal assembly, they bolt straight in so that was an easy win.
I have some time off in July so hopefully ill make some progress
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long time no hear.
Have had the work/life balance tipped way too far to the work side since jan 21 and haven't done much on the car.
I did get the engine assembled, and @Bistro gave me a hand to install and test drive/run it in sometime maybe earlier this year. Engine went really well. Knocked a bit with the old gas in the tank, but is going sweet with some fresh stuff. Just running a stock cam and single carb at the moment. I have a cam and a MAXX ecu to run the injected carbs. Need to do the fuel supply inside the carb hats, and order some lash caps to suit the cam. Hopefully ill get onto it later in the year.
Image hosting seems to have packed a shit so ill try something else.
As it sits, a good storage area for my other projects...
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On 17/05/2022 at 13:26, nzstato said:
There is a crap ton of LPG there to be used.... just need to tell Methanex they cant have any more and you have decades worth of transport supply.
Methane only takes gas from the pipe. Mostly CH4.
LPG is produced by stripping the propane and butane from the raw gas at 4 or 5 production stations before it goes into the pipeline.
Most of it goes to the port to be sea tankered to the south island.
Need to increase gas production to have more gas to strip the LPG out. Not all production stations have LPG plants tho. We don't. Yet. If the price was higher, there would be room for maybe 2 more LPG plants.
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Old Lathes and machining shite
in General Car Chat
Posted
Container looks pretty sweaty. Probably a fair bit if surface rust on the ways