fletch

 18436472 injector wiring, one of those 4s is a 5 but not sure which one, you should go 1 and 6, 8 and 4, 4 and 7, 3 and 2.

Then you set it to squirt twice per cycle and you will get the most even distribution

I'll have a look. I drive past nearly every day and haven't had a reason to go for a nosey

15 minutes ago, tortron said:

There's a 99/2000 Y11 wingroad at pickapart new plymouth 

99/2000s are basically facelifted y10s

It's a zvs model which factory has an sr20ve and should have a disk rear end (unfortunately they are cvt) 

 

 

Want me to have a look for you?

11 minutes ago, Transom said:

Have put 1.5 ton on the 250kg setting on a supercheap hoist and then moved it around … 

as above I would be more worried about centre of gravity than shear strength 

Yea, I have seen 'other people' poke a longer bit of box section in the top to get some more reach, and an old engine block on the back to uprate it some more

Can you fit the Astra pump/reservoir somewhere further back?

I know a few racecar jokers that run the pump on the floor behind passengers seat for space/weight distribution and a hp hose to the rack. I drove one and it was all good.

6 hours ago, HumberSS said:

Cool. How do.you fix it eating oil then?... Think I got tucked.

 

Another vote for plugs followed by a good Italian tune up.

Maybe an oil change to some decent synthetic

On 26/03/2023 at 21:26, johnnyfive said:

The dipstick tube is airtight when stick inserted, stick doesn't go beyond tube, remove tube, oil assumes correct level in tube? Can't explain phenomenon that makes that happen initially, but something fucky with heat cycles and air expansion etc. Don't know if I've conveyed this properly

When it's running, the oil level drops as its all up in the head and block walls etc. Then it can run out of the tube and be all ghost oil level etc

Plz do the 3kw 48v hub motor and use a 72v battery pack.

On 19/02/2023 at 21:51, Nominal said:

Well, there's more that could be plugged in. The water pump can just be run once in a while to fill the header tanks in the house.

We only have tank water, and while there is usually plenty in the tanks, getting it into the house needs the pump. That way the wetback would heat the water if needed too.

Cheap option, J5 spec without the fancy changeover wiring.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/business-farming-industry/industrial/generators/diesel/listing/3998497842

Lol that's a big dog.

Yes they do coke up if they are not loaded. Can take a while to happen but does happen.

Example was a camp generator. Nice 4cyl perkins turbo. Ran for a couple of years 50% of the time it had no load really. Ate itself and nearly ran away. Was a bit exciting.

Mechanic pulled it apart to have a look and it was curtains. Then he left and the container door got shut....

Starter motor and alternator fitted my tractor tho

31 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Yeah, it's hard to get a generator around on appro.

Looking at something about like this

Hyundai Diesel Silenced Generator 5000W - Diesel - Traditional - Generators - Tools & Hardware at Trade Tested

 

 

We have a few of them at work for small site backups. Heavy little fuckers.

Have been very reliable. Will start a 2.5hp single phase air compressor.

Luck of the draw I would say.

Some 2kw generators would do it. It depends how good the generator protection is.

You could try it on 2x 30m leads joined together. It will lessen the voltage drop at the generator, but not really practical as a long term solution.

Single phase can be a bit of a prick.

Bugger.

See this link for a good explanation of how the original reg works

https://240z.life/voltage-regulators/

also i think this covers it, even tho its slightly different. Also mentions auto choke relay near the bottom of the page.

The 510 diagram you posted looks like it suits your wiring, but the pins in the plug are different to Kickers photo. You must have the Yellow wire in your regulator plug splitting off to the choke relay coil and its not shown on your diagram.

You could do some probing with a 12v wire onto each pin of the regulator plug (car side) and listen for the clicks of the relay to confirm what feeds it. Just don't touch it on the ground pin.

Im surprised the light is staying on when you connected it directly to the alt and the S to the battery. Have you got a voltmeter? Did the voltage rise once the engine was running?

I once did a rush job engine conversion on a 90s nissan. I had the S wire connected but i hadn't run the charge light wire to the dash. Temporarily i had to start the engine, then touch a wire from battery positive to the L terminal to energize the field and get the alternator to charge. Once it started charging it was away. If your charge light is staying on, there might be a problem with the alternator?

22 hours ago, Flauski said:

Have now tried swapping to same as you @kicker, connecting 5 - WB to 3 - WR and diode facing the same way - it has made no difference. Still charging, charge lamp stays on, loud click from relays heard when car is off and battery connected.

The alternator is a Mitsubishi AQ2250? 50 or 60A IC. Can see from the pic I just took that it is wired correctly to S and L.

 

  

I think the S wire is sending volts back to the ign circuit the way you are trying to connect it.

Can you try looping the charge light to the L and temporary hook the S off the alternator straight to the positive terminal of the battery. It's just a reference signal from the ign circuit so the alternator can up the volts if there's a big load and the ign circuit volts are dropping.

I did it a while ago and just wired the charge light (WR) to the L terminal of the alternator and the S terminal to the battery.

What alternator have you got?

22 hours ago, Rhyscar said:

+1 or this recommendation. I got this 2012 GS350 F-sport for $10k. 2012 onwards is a massive step up in aesthetics and interior quality. Pretty good value even though has 240k on it. Should go to 400k hopefully

9L/100km on the open road, big brakes and adaptive shocks. All while rolling in sweet heated/cooled leather seats. Welcome to the future!

Worth mentioning look out for crown/mark X/some GS models come with CVT instead of 6/8spd auto. Mainly Hybrid & 4wd versions for GS, all crowns and some Mark X's. I'm sure they're still fine but yeah CVT's generally suck. 

So lush. I have the previous shape and it's been great. Economy is excellent on the highway even if your in a hurry, but it can be pretty thirsty in town.

Your shape were all 20k plus a couple of years ago. Maybe now I can upgrade!

Edit- get a towbar. $450 and pretty easy install. They make great tow cars. Make sure to leave traction control on cos it will hose the tyres with 2 ton of ap40 on the back when you pull out of the quarry

46 minutes ago, cletus said:

The thing that confuses me is, the industry and supermarkets knew about the rule change for ages, but when it happened  it was like a surprise or something 

I would have thought suppliers and supermarkets would have had some sort of contract 

 

It seems like a pretty big fuck up to have such a basic food item unavailable or super expensive.  Mrs got a tray of 20 size 6 yesterday, $17.50  at countdown

Should turn my back yard into a chook farm  

Think I heard somewhere that the supermarkets bought forward the date that they wouldn't be accepting colony eggs so it caught the farmers unaware.

Supermarkets don't care what the egg prices are either. If there's less and the price goes up, so does the margin.

1 hour ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Sure there's a genuine cause behind eggs at the moment.

Reasons for this are:

From the 1st of January, full gulag spec cage eggs were banned.

The gubbermint indicated 'colony' eggs would be an acceptable setup for the next 5 or so years, which is still Mt eden spec, but with a small exercise yard. Many egg farmers spent time and money setting up/converting to this setup only for the supermarkets to say they weren't going to buy colony eggs in a short time so they said gtfo and are closing/selling up.

That means all those chooks became fertilizer, and so did the nearly 4 million cage chooks at the end of last year.

Now we are waiting on the next batch of layers to grow and start shitting out raw materials for our eggs bene and smashed avo brunches

Just put it on the dyno and adjust it until it goes best.

If you haven't got the bling cam gears, run 2x timing belt tensioners. Then you can adjust them both at once and you only need to buy 1 2nd hand gear with the anodizing worn off to adjust them independently.

9 hours ago, Crispy said:

2.7 petrol Hilux/hiace motor (not sure of code) and matching manual box (R154?)

 

3RZ. They came with a W series box too.

Can buy a 1500hp kit for them from paradise racing too

14 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

But the maximum number of plates is cheap insurance 

If some is good, more must be better right?

I read another joker took a lick off the end of the pushrod that actuates the clutch to get the right clearance. It was my 2nd last option.  Last being spending more money on the correct sized end plate from Japan.

I understand that as long as they are set up right, there is bugger all wear on the plates and they should last a long time.