vk327

beware of the mace memcal they  are spotty  at best for actually  being tuned, definitely  throw a wideband o2 at it and check fueling is safe, going off prior experience will have bugger all timing in it as well

iv got a 28 spline harrop/eaton truetrac in the HQ  10bolt salilsbury works well, i snapped a factory axle a little while ago so that needs some billet axles to beef that up , aiming to be somewhere around 7-800rwhp, will be a different engine combo tho

13 minutes ago, j.e.d. said:

@vk327 love the colour and that headliner is awesome.. was that custom made?

yeah scott at elite motor trimmer made it up, the original was pretty manky , will be doing the rest of the interior next year, theme of 80s couch more brown vinyl & lots of brown velour

2 hours ago, Vk304 said:

What diff you running in this? 

VL v8 lsd disc brake diff, will be getting upgraded to  trutrac center soon and 31 spline axles to  handle future plans for big power (might shorten it 30mm each side as well), will also be getting  a macdonald bros 4 link and viking coilover setup. currently has 3.23:1 gears, thinking about dropping in the 3.45s i have, give it a bit more off the line

38 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

Put a carb on it for the tech inspection. Job's good. 

this right here... 3D print a cover for all the e throttle and put a decoy  4 barrel  holley on top

1 minute ago, Roman said:

There is an F series that bolts straight in. Mine came from a left hand drive French MA45 Celica. haha! 
Thanks to @thegreatestben who was wrecking it a long long time ago.
Needless to say they are incredibly uncommon, took a fair few years of looking before I found one. (And back when there were a lot more of these era cars around)

The only problem with this setup is that it's factory drum rear, so has the skinny bearings. I've got an Estima setup too that I might shorten and swap in at some point. So I can get the big bearings on the axles. As I've worn out these ones a few times already. They start leaking after a while.

looks like the estima might be the go then, been looking at  using an r31 disc or similar  and a mazda 3 caliper with the integrated handbrake since r31 calipers are old and people want silly money for them

slight thread hijack on the diff topic @Roman what f series housing/axles/brakes are you running?  iv got an estima diff i was gonna shorted and make brackets for the st140 corona but looking at  any better options that  are already 4 stud and brakes that  fit behind 14" advans (have an altezza center to go in it to match the 3sge & J160)

tachometric relay is the best setup for safety  common in alot of 80s efi  cars (bosch jetronic era) 

the tachometric relay is used to supply battery voltage to the entire EFI system and it does this via two different methods.  Initially when the engine is cranking, supply voltage from the starter circuit is used to energise the relay.  When the engine is running the relay contacts are held closed by sufficient primary ignition signal pulses delivered directly from the ignition coil negative terminal.  Having the relay energised in this way also acts as a safety precaution because if the engine stops, the fuel pump and EFI system power supply would then be turned off.

The tachometric relay consists of seven terminals, which are connected and marked as follows:

Relay Pin 30 – Battery supply:  Connect to battery positive usually via a fusible link.  This circuit should have battery voltage at all times.

Relay Pin 15 – Ignition supply: Connected to ignition key on circuit.  This circuit should have 10-12 volts whenever the ignition is on.

Relay Pin 1 – Ignition coil signal: Connected to the ignition coil negative terminal & is used to hold the relay contacts closed when engine running.

Relay Pin 50 – Starter signal:  Connected to the starter circuit and is used to energise the relay when cranking.  Should have 12 volts when starter is engaged.

Relay Pin 31 – Relay earth:  Connected to ground and voltage should be less than 0.3 volts at all times; with a resistance to ground of less than 5 ohms.

Relay Pin 87 – Power supply to EFI system: Connected to all EFI related components, which require a 12 volt, supply.  Whilst cranking or running, battery voltage should be present.

Relay Pin 87b – Power supply to fuel pump:  Connected to the positive terminal of the fuel pump.  With the engine cranking and running, battery voltage should be present. 

common part numbers Bosch: 0280230005, 0280230006
Wehrle: 51 223 909

Im in the middle of doing ac back into  my vk commodore was r12 going to  r134a now, have gone to a new compressor evap core flushed & cleaned, new TX valve to suit r134a new receiver drier and trinary switch , iv done all new lines as have changed to  a modern condenser to  improve efficiency  & to  fit in the space i have, big thing is clean, replace all seals, need to make sure all contamination & old r12 oil is gone as the new PAG oils are not compatible with the old stuff

as others have said 3 channel  bosch igniter 0 227 100 203, I can supply huco(hitachi) version new fairly  cheaply

iv used quite a few of these for wasted spark 6 cyl with an AU1 coil pack 

https://www.efihardware.com/products/374/igniter-triple-channel-HUCO

2002 ford mustang idle valve is easy  to fit and works well

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2002,mustang,4.6l+v8,1385670,fuel+&+air,idle+air+control+(iac)+valve,6072

Well been a few years, but time for an update on the old vk, been a busy (and expensive) last 6 months with stripping this thing down rust repairs changing up the motor a bit and getting it repainted on the slow task of putting it all back together now 

Rust repairs around the rear window & boot lip, gave it a nose job with a New old stock radiator support to replace the buckled twisted one 

wouldnt worry about secondary injectors on a 3.8 ,  modern injectors work well at low pulse widths so  not hard to  get an engine to idle with a set of 1000cc or 1350cc  injectors (at this point you'd lose resolution on the stock delco ecu  fuel tables tho) , youd have to be pushing 20 plus psi of boost to  even get close to needing that much fuel  even with e85 and could run 60psi base pressure if needed a bit extra, more viable option would be a water meth kit which  typically  run a single nozzle into the intake, either the fancy  AEM  kit or have done a basic water meth kit before using an AEM nozzle with a solenoid and a tank with an efi pump and regulator on it and a hobbs pressure  switch turns on the solenoid as boost comes on 

proflow fab in aussie are machining l36 heads to  work as l67 heads now if you get stuck  finding a decent replacement 

3sge beams altezza engine, fairly compact 6 speed manual rwd , can run on the factory  ecu standalone, can pickup a crashed altezza fairly cheap

Iv used a couple quality  varies a bit the painless ones are good. but the cheaper (proflow) ones are a bit average really thick wire insulation and terminals are pretty  thin ,  would recommend still putting relays with  decent battery  feeds for headlights (commodore dip switches like melting down with  decent lamps fitted) and any other high current loads like fans and fuel pumps.  Vh  should be pretty basic wiring wise, things like wipers and dash might be easier to  keep  part of the factory  wiring loom if its in good shape and strip back and make it a sub loom with plugs you  can wire feeds in and signal out etc 

im using one of these on an efi  build

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/listing/3789738243?srsltid=AR5OiO0BmznBLIfYsqS6JeSlZNQOd1zDWLwMGAiO3EvaOGbSwl51xgLV7BM

even tho china it seems to  be quite nicely machined and smooth action, takes an ls1 TPS and has ORB ports to setup  idle bypass

I recently brought the weldskill 205 acdc and really like it, TGA abrasives https://tgaabrasives.co.nz/shop/welding-plasma/welding-equipment-welding-plasma/tig-machines-welding-equipment-welding-plasma/cigweld-weldskill-205-ac-dc-tig-welder/ were a bit cheaper than  blackwoods too, the 8m tig torch is handy for some jobs but a bit of a pain for others so iv got a 4mt flex head wp17 setup for it now as well. really rate the ease of use, great upgrade over my old china acdc tig