bobdylan

was just venting cause the poor bugger needs to get a Cert. That's all.

Yowzer i did for my car. Cert the engine, suspension, brakes, half cage, stripped interior, light pod. Incase i get stopped by the cops. It was more of a budget build, he didn't have a lot of money. Was cheaper then rebuilding 16v.

But 4age 16v smallport vs silvertop 20v isn't over the 20%. Ltsa favours Honda. Makes it hard for the rest of us. They can drop a b18c in with no cert into a eg sir, yet us Toyota fans are screwed. Its a outrage. My brother in law took his eg to get cert in Auckland where he lives and the guy said he didn't need as same engine family. Yet asked the same about the 82 and he said i needed a cert. Its just biased. makes it hard to support Toyota. I don't agree with it, 4 extra valves should not mean a cert. going to the gze should tho. Cheers for the answers guys.

That was the point, how can a whole engine swap need a cert but changing the head doesnt?

Quick question about engine swaps and head swaps. 1) If i put a 20v 4a into a smallport 92 does it NEED to be cert as the power output is not above 20% and its a 4a engine? 2) if above does need a cert if i replace the 16v head with a 20v head,and change the pistons would that be better as its the original 4a block. Confused as we did a 20v swap into a 92 and the WOF guy said he needed a cert unless he just did a head swap.

Rather buy new, if possible.

I hate to admit but my partner drives a Honda, a Honda accord. The A/C Stopped working, swapped over the FAN relay and it works, so the relay is buggered. I have been to supercheap and Repco and they can't find it. They said they can't help, does anyone know where I can get one, or if I cant get a OEM one can i get a replacement universal one?

So yesterday was the first real time I have pushed her on gravel, and boy did she love it. My friends parents have a farm about 20 minutes from my place which have a series of gravel paths and driveways which they let me turn into a rally stage to test my 82. So first couple of goes, it was slow, very slow, just getting used to her, getting to know her, buying her a drink so to speak. Which highlighted a few aspects, the suspension is UBER hard, you feel every little rock, which is fine for me but will get tiring over a few stages. She rattles and clanks a lot, with no sound deading, it gets quite loud. Exhaust has a nice note and gets better with VVT and the new cams make a hell of a difference. Decided to check everything, not leaking oil which is good, made sure everything was nice a tight and gave her a few power runs, all the way up to 8,100rpm. MY GOD the noise from the engine! She digs in deep with the front tires on launch, you can hear all the stones hit the underside of the car. The increase in speed has made the ride far harder but it holds the road well, the MRP coil overs do their job well. The turn in is crisp and she responds well to any steering adjustment, she is a hand full on the straights as she tries to wander but that’s due to the toe in the rear. Have found the handbrake hard to access when harnessed in so need to think about how I can modify this to make it easier to access, Brakes are good, the AE111 brakes far better than the stock ones but still need work as experienced some brake fade. She slides into the turn nice and has the power to pull herself out, as long as I stay upwards of 5,000rpm she has enough power, below that she is a little lacking. Gearbox ratios are ok for gravel and 3rd gear is very useful. LSD helps on gravel. After he high speed runs, checked her over again, everything is still ok, one small leak from the radiator hose, but replacement parts have been collected. Let her cool down and re-checked everything. Old girl is ok, Some minor adjustments to the suspension to be made today based on what we found yesterday. More testing tomorrow and photos to come and figuring out how to upload the videos we have taken.

Thanks.

Point taken. Will stop asking stupid questions. What i have done is take a scaa ae82 fx16 from the usa which has won many events and started to replica and improve the setup. Like the c56-LSD which took me a while to find. Rather do it right the first time then have to keep changing it cause i took the easy way out. The fx uses poly mounts but after reading the various posts it had been mentioned soild mounts improve the engine response.

Yeah. Ant i have a 1.6km gravel track (driveway) to train on for the next 3 days. Will report tomorrow

So this is correct: Toe out= quicker turn in, then earlier tendancy to 'break' and understeer Toe in= More sluggish turn in, but less tendancy to understeer and more warning before 'break' understeer. Was given this, know its for a Escort but its a FWD rally one, could the same setup work for the corolla????

i am up there a lot. prefer closer to hb but aucks is fine.

1984 ae82 fxgt. Silvertop 20v, blacktop ecu, 5speed lsd box, ae111 front and rear brakes. whiteline 18mm rear swaybar. nuthraine bushes, half cage,

Its a duel purpose car. Will be driven on the road, but needs to be happy at Hampton downs. I am willing to be uncomfortable on the road for better performance.

I am thinking about runing between 1 and 2 degrees of total toe out in the rear of my car. am thinking about runing 2.5degrees camber front and rear. I don't care about tyre life too much... Also don't mind it being twitchy on the straights for better turning. Car already runs mrp race coilovers. Can anyone recommend a better setup or what they use? When it comes to suspension setup I am lost!!

It will be a track day car which gets used on the road every once and a while, or when I want to impress the ladies. Do they do Poly ones? Only thing i can find on the website is stock replacement ones.

Thanks for that. Will look into some poly ones then.

I am after solid engine mounts and possibly gearbox mounts for my Silvertop AE82. If anyone runs solid mounts can they give me the real world PRO/CON of using them? Read a whole bunch on the net about chassis damage etc but most of it is just heard from a friend of a friends bothers half sisters pet dog etc etc. Does anyone know the cert legailities around using them and also if anyone makes/sells them in NZ? Thanks

Pretty easy, you just need to make a few minor modifications, as you are a mechanic should take for a matter on an hour or so. I actually have a website link which takes you though it, got to find it. Will pm you tonight.

I am after the following paint code, Merc lists it as Nutria Brown. Does anyone know the paint code so I can go buy some to paint the 82? Here is an example of the brown:

If your interested am making harness for 16v 4a and 3sgte/3sge. Not sure price yet but not that much.

Yes. Either the old map vs rpm or alpha-n tps vs rpm. It's just an obd1 ecu with a rtp chip. Alpha-n is just rpm/temp and tps if i remember correctly. Plus the bonus is its rtp over write and play. Crome has an itb tool which converts to alpha-n. And its pretty easy to use.

Blacktop ecu is designed for 20v engine. Never seen it work great on a 16v. TBH if you want to go Blacktop ecu better go Honda Ecu or aftermarket. What's the goal? track, rally or road?

If he does the wiring maybe $180 for the loom and Honda parts (trademe and pick a part) and $200-300est for tuning. For the 92 is was just under 500 all up and running. Maybe he should join a Toyota forum. There is one big one in Australia but not sure about nz.