a.craw4d

On 14/04/2024 at 21:01, RUNAMUCK said:

Also, delete the governor. 

Am in 2 minds of doing this.

Many conflicting opinions about the motor’s longevity after governor delete.  As it is with the governor, anyone can jump in and give it heaps with no fear on my part of it going pop.  I can tighten the spring to increase revs / speed and still keep it within its limits while at the same time I still get wide open throttle up to that limit.

Also bear in mind this has been an almost free build so far. Purchases to date include the chain, sprocket, brake and throttle cables.

Terrible video as promised.

Filmed with my left hand, left hand also on brake duty’s so terrible braking as well.

I also drove this to a local supplier to pick up stuff.  There’s a video floating around somewhere of me high siding it, almost getting thrown out then crashing into their shop wall.  
Was fcuking hilarious.   We then loaded it up with bearings and housings and hooned back to work.  Got many thumbs up and a couple photos snapped while waiting in traffic at the train crossing.  It’s such a hoot to drive.

Did a run around the block with a speedo app.

Time to tighten up the governor a bit. Can’t be holding up traffic.

edit.  I tried to take a terrible one handed video of a ride in this. But it’s, well, terrible. As I need 2 hands to drive. Might upload it anyway.

Tried this.

Hate to admit it but it was terrible. Surprising amount of grip until there’s none at all. And being rear heavy I could hold very little drift angle before it spun very quickly.

 Did eventually add a chain tensioner as the chain was super slack.

 Drove this a few blocks away to show a mate, got chased by a dog on the way. Dog was bigger and faster and wanted a piece of me. Luckily (for me) it got a little too close to the rear wheel and got clipped, tumbled and gave up the chase. Scariest moment so far on this thing.

So now I really needed a proper throttle setup.

Machined up a little cable clamp thingy that also connects to the throttle linkage (still running the governor).

Added some extra springs so the throttle reliably returns to idle.

And for the final (for now) touch I tightened up the brake cable.

 A quick test up and down the street at home and everything’s working well.   It’s a luxury being able to sit in a seat and drive with 2 hands. Is a bit slower on the governor than previous tests but ok for now and I know it’s happy to rev a little more.

To do’s include:

   -Fit a chain tensioner. Some dick didn’t machine slotted holes in the engine plate.

  -Get a speedo app to clock this thing.

  -And tighten up the governor spring.

Concerns are:

  -The axil isn’t going to last long.

  -And neither are the brakes.

But those are future me problems.

Will chuck some average videos up soon.

Wow that was a while ago.

I went to hook up the brakes and found the little adjuster thingy had gone south on the last joyride.

I didn’t have any adjusters in my stash that fitted so chopped up an old mountain bike brake/gear shifter combo.

Now I had brakes it was time for more hooning.  At this point I’m still sporting a decent exhaust burn on my right hand from the last test runs.  
So I wedge my hand in hard against the choke/ throttle/ spark plug area and go for gold again, still kneeling in a similar pose to driving a dingy with an outboard.

So fun.

So fast.

So dodgy still.

Work mate watching from the roadside reckoned 60 clicks easy.
I was catching up on cars real quick and the brakes were only slightly better than the foot dragging on the road option.

By the time I pulled back into the workshop I’d cut my hand up fairly bad, blood down the side of the motor. And one knee was sore as fcuk and starting to swell up.

All in all a great time was had and received many roadside thumbs up.

Glad @xsinclairx wasn’t patrolling the area that day  

On 12/03/2024 at 12:43, sheepers said:

 

On 12/03/2024 at 12:43, sheepers said:

 

Looks mint to me.
All superficial repairs. I’ve repaired much worse.

You’re basically just running power to the motor via a pressure switch.

Love your work Dan.

14 hours ago, Zeubin said:

Not sure if it belongs in this thread or not but this is my neighbours Pao:

K10 with retro styling. Never seen one before. Only 4 in nz apparently. 

 

14 hours ago, Zeubin said:

 

haha been here before. Thought it was based on a k11.  Had a good chat to the owner.

There’s tons of info about mating that head onto sr20 turbos.

This gives you an idea of the size and proportion of this thing.

It’s quite rear heavy, will be interesting to see how well it turns.

Beefed up the engine mount and fitted sprocket.

1 hour ago, RUNAMUCK said:

 (like that ones on the front)

JUST like the ones on the front?

Exactly like those ones?

 I think you’ll find they are your old ones! They were delivered buy Karl iirc.

 The rears come from smokinjoe, (is he still around?)

 I don’t think the rear axil will last long with the 5hp to be honest but I can make a better one when that happens.

Oh yay I can now share videos.

 Here’s an old one with the last motor.

On child care duties so left them unattended and got some workshop time.

Measured sprocket alignment and set up motor mounting plate.

 Welded and motor bolted in place. Will brace the mounting plate to back up under the handle bar.

 I have a video of the motor running.

 It’s stupidly loud.  

I may or may not do anything about that.

 Just need to drill and mount the sprocket and sort a longer throttle cable.

On 04/10/2023 at 15:11, RUNAMUCK said:

Brother, be forewarned!

You are teetering of the precipice of the ultimate Barry rabbithole.

But its okay, ive been down there, so you dont have to. Some years ago, i repowered my childhood go kart with a 5hp briggs. In my research, i discovered a forum, dedicated to these engines. The Wisconsin Karting federation have a class just for them. I did some reading, and learned a lot. Firstly, mine had a thread in the exhaust port. Reportedly they go better with the pipe screwed in. (The ex port diameter is too large for optimal performance) naturally the shape where the pipe ends (inside the block) is also critical. They were all about a threaded sleeve that screwed into the ex port to narrow it down. (This may, or may not be "class legal" for the stock engine class. Theres also an optimum length for the pipe too. (Seeing as its just a straight pipe, its not hard to make) my memory isnt what it once was, but it was 12" or 14".  

There are two types of 5hp blocks. The cast iron sleeve ( industrial motor) and the full alloy "cool bore" block. The alloy bore motor needs a piston which has been hard chromed. Otherwise the two soft metals gall each other. Theres also two varieties of side cover. one has a bearing, and th other the crank shaft just runs on the aluminium casting. The greatest weakness is the lubrication system. Theyre splash fed. Theres a sheet metal "dipper" bolted to the conrod cap bolts. This splashes the oil up to where its needed. Reportedly at apporox 4000rpms, this breaks off. And shortly there after the conrod snaps in two. And you get a window in the front of the block. (They say you can change the parts, and use pop rivits and RTV to make the block go another roound) 

Better parts have the dipper cast into the rod cap. Believe it or not, there is (or at least was) untold aftermarket parts available. Wiesco pistons, carrillo rods, brand name camshafts.

You can even get aftermarket billet blocks. (I think theyre called blockzilla 3?) 

Now im sure youre only interested is the basic stuff to begin with.

Firstly that pipe is a negligable cost improvement. And as tempting as it might be, dont shave the head. The air speed is highest up near the roof of the chamber. Skimming the head to try bump compression will hurt the flow.

Looking at the block with the head off, youll see an "eyebrow" between the valves and the cylinder. You can grind with down the cylinder wall, almost to where the top ring sits at TDC. Again the air speed is low down here, but its a free mod for moar power.

Ok I’m out of that rabbit hole. I joined a bookface group of Americans dedicated to the B+S engines. Raptor is the 1 you speak of.  

I’ll skip all their nonsense and just keep it super simple.

Flushed the engine and chucked in some fresh oil.

Made a separate choke leaver and tightened up the governor spring a bit.

Will run the short straight pipe as it fits in the back of my work van that way.

Also cut off all the unneeded bits on the trolley including foot pedals. Will run hand controls purely for more cabin space.

Engine just sitting in place. Clears axil and handle bar, it was ment to be.

Have a new sprocket to machine and fit soon.

Toyota altezza 3sge engine. 
Are they a full interference engine?  Suspected cam belt broke when trying to start it. Will hopefully get time to check it tonight, just wanting to know if I should start crying now.

Slight off topic/ thread highjack.

Thinking of converting a fwd under powered shitbox to a turbo boxer powered rwd funbox.  

Would the deciding factor that changes it from “modified production” to “scratch built” be how much of the original floor pan I keep?

Have reread a couple times the link you posted @cletus.

Shitbox in question is a z11 Nissan Cube.  Power plant, drive train and rear subframe curtesy of Subaru wrx with front axles removed.