Banga

Getting vacuum isn’t an issue, just how to get crankcase gases back into the engine after the air/oil separator?

Any tips for an operational PCV system when running ITBs? Can I run the recirculated gases into each trumpet (somehow) or do I have to drill the manifolds?

I’m looking to swap out the bench front seat in my Cortina with a pair of GT Cortina bucket seats. The issue being that they only mount at the front and the rear slides to give forward/back adjustment- you can set the vinyl patches under the rear in the pic where the rear slides. The front seat mounts have a stopper built in so they can’t flip forward. My read is that I might have issues getting these certified as the way they mount wouldn’t really give the same level of strength as a modern production vehicle? 2.8(2)

Thanks! Good to know before pulling the trigger- back to the drawing board.

Hi @cletus I’m looking to do some upgrades on my cortina and looking at retro Ford stuff- any obvious issues from a certain perspective with these struts? Cheers! https://www.retroford.co.uk/product/ss016/

@2ndChance not really! I got a module from the UK that was meant to sort it but I couldn’t ever get it right. Still reads a little high I think

Have just moved from Wellington to Rotorua and need to find a new workshop for wofs for my cortina and the better half’s mini. any suggestions?

That Keene is a bit of a classic! 99 boxxers?

I've had a 1600 kicking around for 10 years or so- dry stored and still turns over mint by hand. There was a dude on Facebook looking for a 1600 and I posted that I had one. the old man dug it out and took some photos and turns out that it's a 711m block- fairly sure it hasn't been bored. Ive read that this is one of the more desirable and rare castings due to being thicker/stronger. Any crossflow gurus know if that means it's more $$$ or just another shitty old 1600 and take what I can get for it?

Birthday time, my better half got this done for me. My uncle is the artist, he's a talented guy.

Long time no update, just been driving it up until the xmas break really. Flew through another WOF at the end of November, had thrown new front pads on along with a bleed and adjustment of the rear drums as the brakes weren't overly flash- seems to have done the trick. The downdraft had been playing up a bit recently, not wanting to start or idle too well and didn't get much better even after throwing a kit on it. I've had a single sidedraft manifold for a while so figured rather than throwing any more cash at old carb I would just look for sidedraft instead. Old 32 DFM Pick up a Dellorto dhla 40 in the end that had come off a 1600 crossflow and supposedly recently rebuilt- figured that would be a good starting point for my 1580 (ish) pre-crossflow. Tried to get it to work with the original linkage set up but after a few nights tinkering away in the garage admitted defeat and decided to grab a Mangoletsi double cable set up. Jimmied up a cable bracket for the accelerator out of an old mtb disk brake adaptor and I was away laughing. Until I took it for a drive and it wouldn't go up hills, was draining the bowl. After a bit of trial and error and a help post in the tech section BigMatt4 suggested moving the electric fuel pump closer to the tank which cured the issue and now I was getting too much fuel. My fuel pressure regulator finally turned up and cured that problem. Have down a fair bit of sorting around over the xmas break. The sidedraft definitely seems a lot torque-ier than the old downdraft as well as starting and idling a lot better. Fitted new rear shocks today as the drivers side was spewing oil and not doing too much in the way of dampening.

I now have a car that goes uphill again, moved pump to the fuel tank outlet and away she goes. Cheers guys. Probably need to play with float levels/put the regulator on/go back down to a 2mm needle and seat as its wants to flood now when it coming to a stop.

So decided to take a plunge and drilled the needle to 2mm, improved things slightly so bumped it up to 2.5mm which slightly improved things again but it still dies going up a hill. As soon as it died I turned it off and pulled the top off the carb and its definitely an empty bowl causing the problem. Next try moving the fuel pump to just off the tank.

So I've pulled it apart again, I've got a 1.5 needle in there at the moment. I'm guessing it's a no no to simply drill it out to 2mm and chuck it back in? My old 32 dfm had a 2mm needle not really comparing apples with apples though.

Yip running a single, came with a crossflow single side draft manifold. It re-starts pretty easily- seems like it just needs the bowl refilling. I'll pull it apart tonight and give it a good clean. Cheers

Looks to be a Goss universial (was on the car when I bought it) which is meant to flow up to 110L per hour, it's mounted in the engine bay, about a metre of 8 mm fuel line to the carb. I'm going to throw on a new fuel filter to eliminate something cheap and then will take a look at the needle after that. cheers guys.

The carb came off a 1600 crossflow so should be in the ball park jetting wise.

Got my single 40 sidedraft Bolger up and running tonight, idles and revs mint but ran into an issue when I took it for a drive. Fine on the flat but died when going up a hill, got home and pulled the floats out and seemed to be way off so adjusted those to approx 15mm with the 7 gram floats I have, and went for another hoon and while it was a little better it still died eventually- died as in completely stalled. Seems like a fuelling issue to me, could too much fuel pressure cause that? I'm waiting for my regulator to turn up, current electric fuel pump set up was fine on a 32 dfm weber.

Don't suppose you know what your carbs running in the way chokes/jets? Looking to put a single 40 on my 1500 too.

The Smiths tacho out of a gt cortina I have didn't work as its rvi, just purchased a kit off ebay to convert it to rcv to allow it to work. It's on its way from the UK now.

Thanks guys, after doing a bit of searching it looks like Wilwood do a radial mount caliper with 7/16UNF mounting bracket which should help cover off both those potential issues.

Looking at maybe upgrading the front calipers/discs on the cortina, are they the same as escorts brake figment wise? I.e. Will a kit for an escort bolt up to the cortina strut?

Install a one way check valve?

I did mine recently, I was putting new seals in so I fitted the chrome/plastic strips into the rubbers and then into the car. There is a tool for the job too, http://bullmotifminispares.com/1534/insert_tool_wlst01_tool02_toolscreen_5135 Years ago I did it with the windows and seals already fitted and it took hours, didn't help that the seals were older and not too pliable, soapy water helped but it still sucked.

A bit slack on the updates over the last couple of weeks but plenty has been happening. So I figured out that I fried the electronic ignition module when I tried to wire up the rev counter.... not ideal. Got a new module and had spark again. A little more research and it looks like I can't use the rev counter with electronic ignition set up as its the wrong type , RVI when I need a RVC. There are a few conversion kits out available to convert to a RVC so that will happen at some stage in the future. Pretty much all back together now, had to pull the look out again when the wire for interior courtesy light sorted out and melted through the loom while we were putting the headlining in, melted a hole in my nice new headlining too but luckily that is covered by the rear view mirror. Took it for a WOF last week, just need a few new bulbs as the ones in it were a bit dull, so pretty stoked with that. Needs a bit of tune, it's running a bit rich at the moment so will get that sorted at some stage. Recovered seats and new carpet Already had holes in the parcel shelf so figured I'd put some sounds in. Took it for a drive up to my folks place in Levin on Sunday, no issues over the couple of hundred kms which is always good. Hopefully will get along to one of the monthly meets at soon, heading away to the states next weekend so looking like Julys will be the earliest.