h4nd

9 hours ago, gibbon said:

With enough inputs (air & fuel flows, map and EGT for a start) could an ecu do away with an o2 sensor but still run closed loop?

@Roman would be a good man to tag here, but yes. You could closed loop control (means use feedback from some sensor to attain some goal) and have the system strive to give you the EGT you want, or the coolant temp you desire, or exactly 3000 RPM for your gen-set, etc. 

If you want good hp etc, you may find you need to use an O2 sensor to get a quality of results acceptable to you.

10 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

3x bosch BIP373 ignitor drivers but its seems they've been out of production for a while. So the new alternative is this...

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/coil-driver-kit/

But postage is excessive. So I looked up OnSemi EcoSPARK IGBT and found them all over the place but there's various different models and my brain started to smoke when I tried to work out what to get.

Like this...

https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/igbts/2410728?cm_mmc=NZ-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_NZ_EN_Fallback_Whoop-_-(NZ:Whoop!)+All+Products-_-2410728&matchtype=&pla-293946777986&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnf-kBhCnARIsAFlg492mG4wDqPoHH3pRLzCB_sjehTvm24w4QkREUBR61FSGuxw4wSha4ooaAhzoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Bugger, - I don't, maybe @Ned or @kempy?

If you've a little time, I can con a client into ordering some on their next buy (a month or so).

Anyways: (adjusts Barrie (tm) personalised cap):

Digikey has a really good parts selector thingy:

• you can see they have 50 kinds of those family IGBTs
  •  https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/filter/transistors/igbts/single-igbts/279?s=N4IgTCBcDaIPIDsDKBTAtgSwAQFEDGA9kgAoCCASgNJYCSA4gEIAqIAugL5A
• these guys reckon  https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=57426 
  • this goes one OK https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/detail/onsemi/ISL9V5036P3-F085/2509749
  • (though - no thermal protection - probably ok to just chuck a 15A fuse inline?)
• Narrowing for 400V ish to 100V, and 23A upwards in to-220 and the slightly bigger TO-262-3 gets you these 8 options:
  • https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/filter/transistors/igbts/single-igbts/279?s=N4IgjCBcpgbFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRABYwBmMcgDhAMqvMpAF0CAHAFyhADKPAE4BLAHYBzEAF8CAJjAAGCNBDJI6bPiKlwSpQAIAgoxDyqJsxYB0AVisLyj8w9MLYL%2BbBsBOLwDsXnRe-u4gVEbhNC5U8rGW0c7RbmZUntFBmfaxATZZaSHRYWbkUaVgLuTx4eSJpcmlqUwZpQVMRaUlBHblPZXhdjVmdvU9jT3NIHatPe3TnT3dILB9KwNmsMMEsGMrEytTsLMr87CLK8sBawEbBAHbIAF7AQcBUwEnAfMBFwHLdDWdDuIDojzoezoBzoUzoJzoF18a18IN8j18e18B18U18J18iJKnBAvH4AFVxKIeAB5FAAWRwaCwAFdhDhZAplFQEOpUJhcARiJAyFQkYYAGppHES0oGGVMMAOSVMeRGZUUeRK0qReUUKhaphlXWseLq1gGii9Y2rY2A41i9W9NWbOXq2BW9XXZ33D1mJHekA4gPKV0cbh8SAgClU2kMpms9lyEAAWnIPI0WgFumF0yo%2Bt8HBkRaAA
• Anyways, if your MS is something like the one described here:
  • https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/troubleshooting-ms-injector-driver/
  • i.e. has Q14, R37 and Q15 and R38 (current limiting) section
  • and Q3, Q11 sections, then probably most of these will do (287 options)
    •  https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/filter/transistors/igbts/single-igbts/279?s=N4IgjCBcpgbFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRABYwBmMcgDhAMqvMpAF0CAHAFyhADKPAE4BLAHYBzEAF8CAJjAAGCNBDJI6bPiKlwSpQAIAgoxDyqJsxYB0AVisLyj8w9MLYL%2BbBsBOLwDsXnRe-u4gVEbhNC5U8rGW0c7RbmZUntFBmfaxATZZaSHRYWbkUaVgLuTx4eSJpcmlqUwZpQVMRaUlBHblPZXhdjVmdvU9jT3NIHatPe3TnT3dILB9KwNmsMMEsGMrEytTsLMr87CLK8sBawEbBAHbIAF7AQcBUwEnAfMBFwHLdDWdDuIDojzoezoBzoUzoJzoF18a18IN8j18e18B18U18J18iJKnBAvH4AFVxKIeAB5FAAWRwaCwAFdhDhZAplFQEOpUJhcARiJAyFQkYYAGppHES0oGGVMMAOSVMeRGZUUeRK0qReUUKhaphlXWseLq1gGii9Y2rY2A41i9W9NWbOXq2BW9XXZ33D1mJHekA4gPKV0cbh8SAgClU2kMpms9kyOQrHmiAAm-AAtMoIOH%2BGYeABPLjsyNM5BJoA

Octopart is great for finding who has the thing, and at what MoQ and price:

•  https://octopart.com/search?q=ISL9V5036P3-F085&currency=USD&specs=1

Cheers

Fuck 'em

That swarf down on the batt, right of R56?

Could be a fuse between cn2 and bat+ labels, on the other side of the PCB?

You can buy whole BMS boards from AliEx, for not too much

2 hours ago, tortron said:

What's the scam here

 

Ryobi 18 4.0 ah battery

Issue: doesn't work. Plug into charger and it goes straight to full green light/fully charged. Front led check shows 1/lowest charge

Voltage across terminals is 0v

 

Open battery up, test the cells and get 20.8v

Thermistor has continuity and 20.5v either side of it. 

0 voltage at board for neg terminal 

Is there a fuse somewhere, I don't see any obvious damage

Try look for R003 etc current sense resistors, see if they're still basically a short circuit. 

Edit, and I 2nd looking for open cct wire, per above.

Paint it her fav colour, you'll be golden.

Hah, I'm officially the old fart at work. Hopefully still vaguely useful. Got to dispense governor and alternator wisdom about a cheap genset today, complete with (topical) sharns about Dai alternanator fuckedness killing batteries ("kids - Don't do this thing like I did ... Which we can test for by doing ...").

It's a .. thematically related pink PCB demo, with the first kinda tubular connector I found.

Point being, you could run a loom on a PCB like this (e.g. heavy 2Oz / 4Oz copper, multilayer, mounting points from  the engine bosses) for over the top of the engine), with plugs or wire terminating pads. If you wanted to.

And if you had a PCB like that, then you could add LEDs to the top/underside, like for injector / ign firing, temperature gradient, peak RPM achieved, horoscope, BTC price...

Man I'm a dummy, I get it now.

Hey, @Roman, how abou a custom PCB for your wiring loom. It could be honeycomb pattern, white/clear, with RGB backlighting

Looks interesting. You can't now rotate them outward into a wider V to smooth the airflow?

11 hours ago, fuel said:

I changed to LED bulbs because of the amount of times I had left the door open etc working on the car only to find it wouldn't crank after a few hours. Plus in most cases you get more light output. Hard to find ones that have the same warm glow as regular bulbs though.

Good point, I had already done that to a Raum (which got stolen).

They are available in warm white (~4300K) instead of daylight.

Also, this raises the question: How few 18650's will start it? Just 3S? maybe need 3S2P?

Left the interior lamp on. Oops.

Worth a crack. Yeah. Nah.

On 30/05/2023 at 15:34, Roman said:

Cant go forward, because the alternator lives in the way on one side. 

On 01/06/2023 at 16:47, Roman said:

Yeah non standard starter isnt an option. As this starter motor is quite short. I tried 1NZ and 3S starters, but neither would fit because they hit the engine mount.
I found a GR motor starter at pickapart.
You're right, I guess that's another tick in the box for a different flywheel.

So will add that to the list of things to buy after my house sells.
If I get to the point where I can get the motor started up, I guess I can always just put the auto flex plate thing on it for the meantime. Whether or not I've solved gearbox issues.

Left field options:

1/ Run Alt off driveshaft

2/ ditch 'leccy starter, use compressed air reservoir into inlet(s)

Partners immovable carnivore diet just collided with an unstoppable Gulab Jamun dessert. Messy

Oops, not spam.

Who'd want a little 'cArduino' in a die cast alu box, for controlling just a couple of things, like fan / window wiper intermittent, maybe electric park brake?

^ this.

The best power output for a solar looks like this: 

Made up numbers example to show a point:

So e.g. a 144W cell (for instance) might make  12V at 12A = 144W. This means you have a R=V/i = 1 Ohm load (heater)

If your load is too low resistance, the voltage starts collapsing as you pull more current e.g. at 13A draw, it falls to 4V =52W

If your load is too high resistance, the voltage climbs just a little, but you aren't pulling best current from it, e.g. 13V, 4A (3.25 Ohm load) = 52W

So far so good, but, the point on the curve where that peak power is, moves as the amount of light on the panel changes.

An MPPT controller (Maximum Power Point Tracking) controller diddles the draw to keep the panel at best output.

(stolen/summarised from https://www.pveducation.org/pvcdrom/solar-cell-operation/iv-curve)

Now, if you have couple of devices on the same panels, (e.g. also grid-tie inverter) they may (probably will) interfere with each other and get septic.

You could run a heater off your 230, but only draw the amount extra that the grid tie would otherwise expert - i.e. Power Point Tracking  - but flying in formation with other peoples gear is a bit of a PiTA, and prone to weird interactions and failures - and you'd have to have a variable Ohm heater (yeah, nah).

WAter heater has MPPT, and diddles the output voltage to get the best(-ish) efficiancy.

OR, just set the heater Ohms for mid/hot day, and have a go! (cheap)

Got end on pics of plugs, and pin pitch measurements? Digikey has a good selector / finder:

 https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/filter/terminal-junction-systems/422

or more likely https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/filter/rectangular-connectors/rectangular-connector-housings/319?s=N4IgjCBcoBw1oDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbXADYBOAJkoFYQBdAgBwBcoQBlNgJwEsAdgHMQAXwlA

Depending on how much solar you're wanting to chuck in, these controllers are pretty cheap and will PWM convert from what the panel gives you to 12/24V https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/caravans-motorhomes/parts-accessories/solar-panels-accessories/listing/4139869517   ...  Actually on 2nd thoughts, although MPPT will help get the best from the solar, most controllers are set up to deliver best amps at 12/24V, whereas you're wanting to get best energy at whatever heater resistance.

Oh, here we go, MPPT water heater controller should do it: https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-mppt-solar-water-heater.html

Dat dizzy. Whoa!

.PNG is a good format for drawings, it compresses without blurring the edges.

Looks pretty good pic.(not +ve earth like Morrie which would have generator not alternator ?)

edit: wow, nice work on this old beastie!

editEdit: Might be possible to separate the trafficator stalk solenoid from the lights, and put a blinker on the lights? (will need to check / limit the current in the solenoid, might need a big fat series resistance, or a current limiting switch mode power supply)

That's awesome ... totally needs buttons to do a shred.