h4nd

Uh oh, more tuning options? https://garage.redline360.com/4-1-vs-4-2-1-headers-what-is-the-difference-what-makes-more-power

Any updates? Was curious how this panned out.

So good to hear you're still doing the thing. I think folks down here have been watching you, there's more and more of these in good state of paint, slabbing around the streets. You trend-setter you. Dont buy too much pertol, or you'll put the price up and I won't be able to run the Dai!

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kf-CdvnuB3tBH6RVCWjvZmkiRqvjfpRN?usp=sharing

I can scan an L-38 one. It won't be identical, but will be similar, and show you their 'style' . E.g. alt has a green light for working, not a red for fail.

I do like how you're listing the part numbers etc for folks / google to find. Good stuff! Also, there's an active group here, with a guy who sources sells S38 parts, get yourself an invite https://www.facebook.com/groups/1842192666046554/

I'm stealing some electrons from the Dai. Maybe some of you know I have another OS vehicle, which would be much more suitable for a wee open road excursion to somewhere near the sounds, somewhere near summer:

Actual LoL at this... ...frilly...

I have in my hand an internal/external SCSI card, if you'd like...

Possibly failing ignition coil? Arcing may give those symptoms. I had tracking hiding on the underside of the centre HT connector of a coil..

https://nz.element14.com/infineon/bldcshieldifx007ttobo1/demo-board-bldc-motor-driver/dp/3051941

Sound to me like auto choke issues. Can you test it operates correctly? Smells fuel rich?

SuperFastMatt made an arduino controller with a motor shield and a current sensor for an electric park brake. I've spent an hour, and can't find the bloody video. Can everyone go back to using the internet with text, thanks? Update: controller referred to here https://youtu.be/j1SMvM-SUHE?t=585 Up-update: How much current do those things actually draw? anyone put a meter on one?

Spotted by journos.

Which one you got, please?

I may try a LiFePo4 even though it's only 8Ah, it'll crank harder, and if it can't crank long enough I have other uses for it (and should refurb / tune the bike). Come to think of it, I should carefully check the alternator before I order. I built an alarm one time for the bike which ran on almost zero standby current. The flashing LED warning LED drained the drained the batt in a couple of days though.

Rebumping the thread. My old GSXR battery has gone open cct. Unsure if overcharged by by the 2W solar I have, but seems unlikely, the volts looked ok when I semi-regularly checked it. No joy bringing it back by borrowing smart chargers from @RUNAMUCK and @ajg193 It's motobatt MBTX14AU https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/f/suzuki/gsx-r-1100-g-n/ and I was considering something from a local supplier like https://www.mrpositive.co.nz/shorai-lfx14l5-bs12-210cca-high-performance-lithium-battery/ (14Ah, 210CCA $332) But reading the thread, it's Shorei, as @Roman mentioned had mixed reviews. That earlier ali link now does not deliver to NZ. Racetek is not a good mechanical fit, and $1100 for 10Ah (not 14Ah). Am trolling thru Ali Express, and seeing a number of sellers who don't ship, and bad spellerings on batteries and info sheets. Update: digging into the data sheet here https://shoraipower.com/battery-specifications The Shorei battery 14Ah only accepts a 14A charge. The LiFePo4 cells are lower impedance than the PbSO4, and will probably hoover up current faster. GSXR is 405W alternator, so assuming at 13.8V (worst case?), so maybe 30A+ (with the lights off). This might explain some failures folks are seeing. Re-update: This series, with the terrible spelling etc, claims 10C charging (so 100A for a 10Ah battery) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002564457369.html

I liked how consistent your revs sounded at change, interesting to see it confirmed on the graph. Any way to get the revs to drop quicker for another 1/10 on the gear changes? (Bikes use ignition kill changers, because sequential boxes. Koenigsegg use some kind of clutch to dump crank speed and match gears). May a sacrificial air con clutch to chassis for 30-80ms at clutch on?

Graphs of noise by RPM not loading

Hey nerds ( @Karl (I can never remember his tag, dammint) @Ned @kempy and IT folk). Not that I'm paranoid about backups, or having accounts yanked and losing your shit, but: Google backup and sync in mirror mode is supposed to keep a copy of all your shit on your local hard drive. Supposed to. Look in C:\Users\h4nd\AppData\Local\Google\DriveFS\ and check the sizes. Cunts.

I'll give it another try, (after 1/2 tablespoon of Epsom salts). But it's busy having a go at a motobatt AGM bike battery, which it seems to think is sulphated, so ... fingers crossed.

CTEK gave it a go, didn't think it was sulphated, charged it, then thought it was toast. Epsom salts next.

Ackshually, have we made "Certified BARRY!" badges to be awarded?

From my reading, it depends on the failure mode. If fails from over cycling (heavy discharge / recharge, the active material falls of the plates and shorts out plates (goes low impedance, depending on separator design). High current might clear the first wee shorts, and give more joy for a while. If over-discharged, left flat, undercharged, can sulfate (goes high impedance?). Possible that's what the epsom salts does, is rearrange the ions after that's happened? Of interest, I was going to measure between the plates, but couldn't get both probes in one holw. I did however get a reading as soon as the probes were in the fluid (from cell to cell), 2V, 2V, 2V, 2V, 1.2V So I know which end is faulty, just not which of those two cells, or which failure mode. I may make up some skinny probes to get a better measure. Oh, and Pulse charger: