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chris r

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Everything posted by chris r

  1. I'm happy happy with that. Just worked like it should which was a pleasant surprise. Will reassemble and hopefully that's the last time I have to pull the cluster/dash apart in a while
  2. Boot bolted up. Super barry with nuts and bolts and loctite but it's in Yes the bolt holes aren't square etc but they are on the piss on the crv surround too I needed to trim the wider piece a bit so it fitted in the console but it's in now My amayama package finally arrived with the lamps and the cam belt cover So it's been using a bit of oil. I had hoped it was still running in but not so lucky. No external leaks and catch can is doing its job but isn't massively full so I figured it's probably burning it. Yup. Cyl 3 is sad. I don't have the money time or energy to pull it apart again and throw another set of rings and hope so I'll keep feeding it oil until it gets really bad. Part of me wants to get another block and get it properly build but thatll be even more time and money. On a nicer note the aliexpress speedo corrector seems to power up nicely which is better than the jaycar option. Let's hope it works Instructions are super helpful Google translate says there is a up and down button. So I'll go for a drive and see how it goes
  3. Did some barrying today Finally installed the O2 port bung Put some silver and clear onto the seam seal on boot Cut out/ welded/ painted the shifter plate I'll have to carefully drill the mounting screw holes for the shift boot tomorrow.
  4. This popped up in my youtoob feed this morning. Just to add more variables and confusion to the mix
  5. Yup they look like they'll fit. And fitted Took it for a quick spin around the block and it feels better, will see how it feels with a decent drive. Will probably need to do the bushes and dust boots on the ball joints for next wof but I think I'll just give the mechanic everything and get them to do it all at once
  6. @Raizer turned me up a anti doort delete bung And turned/polished up a knob for me Ordered some new front shocks as stock ones are pretty soft. Clearance deal on trademe of 90 for the pair so we'll see how good /bad they are Rears are eye type/same (smaller eye) as the shuttle's so not many aftermarket options available. I'll try and refit my stock springs onto the damper adjustable mugen shocks as I ground the bush to suit the shuttle arm and they fitted the orthia but were miles too low with the lowering springs
  7. And it's silver. Only one coat and hopefully it sets enough before it starts raining It's not perfect but it's not rust now and it'll be covered by the seal and the glass so shouldn't draw any attention come wof time.
  8. Finally made a start with making the shifter boot work. Did some cad work with the crv and orthia shifter surrounds Traced it onto some metal I'll need to bend/make some brackets for the wider section as the screw holes are a different height.
  9. Seat base has made a massive difference. I didn't realise how bad it was before. Just one commute and my hip/knee aren't as sore as they usually are so that's a win. Noticed a bit of rust under the glass hatch so attacked that today. Usual sand/treat then brunox etc
  10. Pood some seam sealer on it today Drivers seat foam had given up. I grabbed a passengers side at pick a part a while ago and was finally annoyed enough today to change it Seat out and replacement base Pulled the material off both so I can swap it over Yup foam isn't doing foam stuff any more 11ty cable ties for the material to go back on. It then went dark so I didn't get any pics of it going back together but it's in now and feels better.
  11. Took it out for its yearly excursion. Collected the singer sewing machine and the compressor from the parents place Feat dad's barry lifting device Haven't had any motivation to carry on with the weber stuff.
  12. Re fixed the rust as I did a rush job last time and it crept back. Got some proper rust converter acid stuff this time Ran out of time to finish priming etc Grabbed a new set of cheap tyres no point in wearing out the 003 commuting. I've gone up to a 205 55/15 now. Speedo is only 10k out now not 20 Installed the mugen shocks I had in the shuttle Yeah na it's going to need a lot of rolling to even be close to not shredding the tyres. I put the stock stuff back in The fronts stick out even more so it'll stay stock height as I'm not cool enough to run stanceboy camber to fit it all in.
  13. The ac has been intermettent for a while and there was a old receipt for a repair on heater controls not working so I pulled it out and took it to the healing bench I suspected dry solder joints so had a go at them with the cheapie soldering iron. Yes best practise is to de solder and re solder everything but i don't have the energy/can't find the tools in the mess. Reflow and a bit of fresh solder in the mix will do the job for now Success (mostly) Annoyingly the illumination lights aren't working. I've ordered all the illumination bulbs for both parts from amayama as they were a couple of dollars each and being genuine I know they'll work fit/be right.
  14. So this happened again tonight Replaced the clock spring as I grabbed one when I was last at pick a part and it's the only part of the system that shares a 12v supply with something else (horn) Here's a edited version of the reset process so I can find it easier again next time 1st step in erasing the memory is to turn the ignition off and connect the tool/switch to the MES Plug 2nd Turn Ignition on. SRS indicator light will come on for about 6 seconds then go off. 3rd Disconnect tool/turn off switch within 4 seconds after SRS indicator light goes off. SRS indicator light will come on again. 4th Reconnect tool/turn on switch within 4 seconds after SRS light comes on. SRS indicator light will go off. 5th Disconnect tool/turn off switch within 4 seconds. SRS indicator light will indicate that memory is erased by blinking 2 times. 6th Turn ignition off, and wait 10 seconds. Start vehicle like normal and light should come on and go out like normal.
  15. Did some reading and there is a manual srs reset process to follow, disconnecting battery isn't enough as it turns out Made up a button to help with that Success Got sick of not having the alarm control the locking so sorted that Had a look at the diagrams and there was a optional remote for this, checked and the drivers door had a factory motor in it which was nice. Had to probe the module but found the lock/unlock triggers Soldered the wires on and put it back in the case Now it works as it should https://i.imgur.com/t4YwJkj.mp4
  16. Checked the loom, no visual damage at all checked everything for continuity/shorts and all good there, clock spring had continuity and no shorts so I'm guessing ecu shit the bed Grabbed a couple of bulbs from pap while I was there and fixed the cluster/not being able to see the speed needles at night Chucked some coolant in it as it didn't leak any of the water or make milkshakes Crimped/sorted the amp power wiring and made a new earth cable while I had the crimpers out
  17. Owner of the van has just passed away so it's all on hold for now. I'll get it wired enough for it to run and we can make a plan from there
  18. I sold a bunch of adrenalinr to the Honda people at my last job, after chatting with adrenalinr a few times the recommendation was nearly always the adr019 louvre baffle https://adrenalinr.com/shop/louvre-baffle/ Bigger body is better for quiet of course. If you just want something livable on the street and not after max powah for street setup then a turbo flow/triple pass rear muffler will do the job. I've for a fairly small cheapie on the orthia and it's perfect as a daily. Edit: I've also fitted a adr019 to the tonner with a cheaper m&h flow master copy muffler and its pretty quiet/sounds good as well (only 2.25" tubing and 2.5" reso)
  19. I'm leaning towards clock spring, I had the coloum out and didn't re center/check the clock springso I'm hoping that's the issue. I had the srs loom out when I was running the shifter cables and was super careful not to damage it
  20. Couple things have cropped up, srs light has made a appearance and didn't fix itself with a reset. I'll have to do some trouble shooting. Flash codes come out as 23, 13, and 12 2-3 short circuited To a Wire In Passenger's Inflatable Air Bag Module Or low Resistance 1-3 short circuited To a Wire In Driver's Inflatable Air Bag Module Or low Resistance 1-4 short circuited To 12 volt power or VSS. Driver's Inflatable Air Bag Module Also the cluster lights for the needles don't work so I'll need to pull the cluster out and investigate
  21. Couple small things today. Fixed the door card fabric that's been flapping pretty much the while time I've owned the car Mounted the ecu Factory trim even fits back on Next on the list is to cut out a bit of metal to fill in the gap where the crv shifter boot doesn't quite match the orthia surround. Stock civic/orthia shift boots will be too short to fit and share a similar size hole to the auto shifter Just need to make some brackets for the headers to help support them and clean/drive it and see what else comes up.
  22. Borrowed old works host. Driveshaft, new pads and rotors fitted. Heat shield stuff applied to firewall around shifter as the cat sits right below it I grabbed a shorter belt for the power steering and that now works
  23. Factory intake arm arrived thanks brock/auto parts farm/I forgot your os name Fitted that and used a old bit of auto trans cooler hose as the rocker cover vent hose as the cabin gets pretty fumy (still need to do shifter cable grommets) Unsurprisingly my orb fitting didn't seal, good to know catch can is doing its thing though
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