chris r

I'm going to need a big fuck off container to put the tank into if I'm going to try electrolysis... I've got a large chillybin. With more reading I can just put the annode in the tank.

I like this idea because I'm lazy. Will do some research tomorrow and see what I can find

I'll just do it on the deaf old lady's side.... It is really scaley so I'm wondering if I go too hard if it'll leak

Probably is, I checked it the other day but forgot what it was. Edit. It better be M12x1 as I've ordered one from aliexpress

Good idea. Not sure how the neighbours will feel about the sander but we'll find out

Shipping is horrendous for a tank ex USA. Only 100 for the tank but 200 for air freight or about 170 for sea so nor really a option

It's a car tank, I used vinegar first time around but didn't leave the vinegar to soak though. The problem is the top half is rusty so sealing the pump/gauge sender is a ball ache. Nuts/bolts/rick's is a good idea but at the moment I can't really shake a tank around for ages

its m12 x 1 I think. I got the radius arms in the shuttle today with a bit of filing of the holes, The new bushes are way stiffer than the old fucked rubber ones. I had a look at taking the rack out of the subframe and a friend was over and he asked why don't you just swap the whole subframe. They are all the same it seems, its threaded for both mounts. Subframe is bolted in and tomorrow I'll finish off re attaching the control arms and swaybar. The tank is still fucked in the crx, According to the Internets the shuttle tanks can fit the crx/hatches. It doesn't. The filler is on the wrong place, the pump is on the opposite side and last of all it doesn't even fit and hangs too low so at the first bump it'll rip open. Rock auto has a new tank reasonably priced so I'll get a estimate for shipping it home. I was tidying up and had a look at the headers and noticed lots of carbon around the flange... I had a quick check with the gasket on the head and back on the headers and they are way off. There is a huge lip inside them where the pipe meets the flange. I'll attack it with the die grinder and see how much better I can get it. the collector pipe is also only 2" so I'll chop that off and put a bit of 2.5 on it

I've dropped the tank again which is how I know its still shit haha

Has anyone got any recommendations for a fuel tank cleaner and sealer? The tank I tried to clean out with vinegar etc still has some crap and surface rust inside it, The old fuel varnish and sediment have gone but the the rust flakes that are coming loose now.

unplug a injector and put a test light across the plug if you can. It should flash as you are cranking it

see if you can check if you have injection pulse when it stops

Possibly cam/crank angle sensor or shitty wiring to them. Have you done or had a diagnostic scan done? I'm assuming its injected

I cut and squared up the nuts for the accord radius arms, ill use the chopped off parts as spacers until I can find a die in the right thread pitch. I took about 15mm off so well see how much caster adjument we get. Ness dad has some alloy bar so I'll measure up where I need to mount the waste gate play with the lathe again. I knew I kept ness around for something:p

Sorry I ft to check but yip that's about right. Another thing you could try is close up the gap on the plugs

I should of been clearer with that. I was meaning for testing the coils by themselves. If you probe that 3rd wire there should be a pulse from the ecu to the igniter.

Have you checked fuel pressure? possibly weak pump or blocked filter?

No worries

If you unplug them and test the two fat wires, generally brown or black should be earth or ground and by elimination the other should be ignition power. My guess would be the two this wires (red/blue & white/red) will be your igniter wires and the last one might be a tach signal? Unless you have a led test light it may not be a good idea to probe them unplugged. If the two fat wires are power and earth you could rey rangi some cables onto them and then probe the other pin and check for spark that way. most of the time there will be a earth signal to trigger the igniter/coil

Do the plugs for the coils have all 4 pins populated? If so are there some wires that are the same size/colour in the same position in both plugs? Changes are they will be your power and ground and the others will be to ecu or igniter

Sweet thats good! it should elimate them. Is there a ignitor/ignition module hanging around the coils? how many wires are going into them?

Unplug them, Connect the test-light wire to ground and probe the pins. One (or both) should have power. If you have power connect the test light wire to power and hold it in one pin while cranking the motor. swap to the other if you have no flashes the first time. One side will be ignition and the other should go back to the ecu

I have thought about that but the internal wastegate is the easier option for now. Flow wise it'd probably be less than ideal if I opened up that hole. Edit: The wastegate actuator fits between the turbo and block so thats why you can't see it, (or it fell off)

have you got a test light? if so test for injection pulse. If you have injection pulse but no spark it could be ignition related. if you dont have both you could have cam/crank sensor faults

This thread is both for the crx & shuttle so that explains the confusion, The Crx is getting the b18cr (dohc red rocker cover) and the shuttle is getting the turbo single cam. The manifold is off a newer civic and originally had the cat bolted right onto it. I have a adapter flange to suit the turbo. The hole is the original O2 sensor location, I may use it if its not too hot but otherwise I have some bungs on their way