chris r

On 31/03/2023 at 19:17, mjrstar said:

Do you just need one of those OBD2 to obd1 adapter looms to fault find?

If you have a spare I could borrow that'd be helpful. 

On 22/03/2023 at 20:59, chris r said:

I thought I had photos of the harness but didn't. I decided to try swapping the ecu plug on the adaptor harness to the genuine as its less work and soldering everything. The pins were quite loose in the Chinese connectors so there might have been something dodgy there. 

But when putting it back in I noticed that 

Then wire might have snapped when I was rough and pulled the twist and tape out or it was damaged internally after the big swap/surgery. 

Seems to be fixed for now. Let's hope it stays that way 

 

 

Nope back to not working again. Really need to borrow a scope and solder a wire to ecu pin and see if it's acutally getting a signal or if ecu is being a dick 

@h4nd what software did/do you use for drawing the diagrams? 

I thought I had photos of the harness but didn't. I decided to try swapping the ecu plug on the adaptor harness to the genuine as its less work and soldering everything. The pins were quite loose in the Chinese connectors so there might have been something dodgy there. 

But when putting it back in I noticed that 

Then wire might have snapped when I was rough and pulled the twist and tape out or it was damaged internally after the big swap/surgery. 

Seems to be fixed for now. Let's hope it stays that way 

Finally had another look at the rear brakes as pedal was getting soft again and handbrake had heaps of travel. 

Turns out whoever did brakes last time replaced the auto adjuster on the left hand side with the wrong one(lh has reverse thread) so it was auto adjusting in not out. If grabbed a couple from pap when I was there and fitted the correct one in and adjusted up and all is well. 

Probably was the same mekenik who left the hard line into the prop valve loose. 

No pics becuse break dust etc. 

I thought I'd try patching the exhaust leak in the beagle so I could take it for a wof 

One patch turned into two, then four. Then I found more holes and decided the whole pipes rusty and fucked and I need to redo it so it's back to sitting on the lawn for a few months 

41 minutes ago, tortron said:

Hi chris

I have looked into this, the consensus is that it sucks and a turbski is just way better

 

 

But how else can I live out my supercharger on a button mad max fantasy when sitting in traffic? 

Carbs suck too so it'll probably end up on something that came out of the factory with a carb 

I'm calling the vacuum leak fixed.

Well as fixed as it can be with the alix manifold. I noticed a thin/undercut bit for the idle motor feed port meets the throttle body bolt  

This Bluetooth connection makes setting tps easier. Get tps roughly in the ball park and then adjust the min/max values on your phone

Also pipe dreaming about this. 

Realistically it's not a option as next to zero space unless alternator goes and I'm not giving up my air con to bolt it on the front 

I think I'd prefer the ssangyong Chairman H 

Had to extend the throttle cable bracket even more.

Quick and dirty chop weld grind and paint 

Barry time 

Fill with jb weld 

And the cold idle valve port

I'll let it cure overnight and carefully file/sand it down tomorrow and hope like fuck it stays and doesn't fall in and lunch the motor 

Got a prelude throttle as its slightly bigger 

Made a cold idle valve block off plate 

Fitted it and had a 2k idle/vacuum leak 

That'll do it. 

For once the Internet didn't lie. 

Orthia bar top and crv lower. 

And installed.

I'm glad past me put the flange where I did as it made it easier to get swaybar in and out. Will have to go for a spirited drive somewhere to see if it feels any better 

Pick a part mission was a success. 

Someone had mostly removed a crv swaybar so I pulled the last link off and nabbed it. The Internet says they are the same as the "type r" bars at 26mm thick. It's certainly thicker than the existing one, for $16 I figured I'd give it a shot. 

I'm hoping it'll make it a bit 'flatter' around the corners. 

A fiends in the states with a orthia has confirmed the rear trailing arms from the shittles are exactly the same as the orthia ones so that makes me thing the rear subframe will be the same too. So all going well if I came make a 'bolt in' bracket on the orthia/shuttle they should interchange 

Also nabbed some obd1 ecu plugs and bit of loom so I can get rid of the harness and speedo issues. I don't think I have any of the crimps to suit so will probably have to cut and solder everything 

Finished off the heat shrinking and soldered the rtc module on with the nice 90 deg pins. Ran out of caring getting the shrink identical lengths 

Trimmed some bolts so the top plate fits. Screwed the back plate on so it's as done as it can be 

I'll order another tube when I have some spare project money and it'll actually display the time 

And for shits and giggles I got all of the clocks in one place 

Spend some time this morning. Turns out the rtc (timer/clock) module was faulty. Soldered another on and it's all good now. 

I had the anndoes the wrong way around so it was seconds minutes hours instead of the correct orientation. 

Quickly loomed and cable tied the wiring 

I need to finish up the heat shrinking and mounting stuff and then it should be pretty much finished 

I still need to wire in the setting switch, power switch and socket, and the light sensing resistor. 

And figure out why it's counting like it is and not doing clock stuff 

So in procrastinating cleaning the car/carport i found the other nixie clock I started/ put aside as I cbf with the wiring. 

Had some multicore scrap with numbered cores which made the process significantly easier 

Progressing

All the cathodes soldered in 

Couple of anodes soldered in for testing and labled so I know/remember what's what next time I touch it 

And test is a partial success. 

I'll solder the rest in and double check no shorts as it should be 10s and 1s of seconds so more investigation needed 

If on a budget Mx5 probably easiest/cheapist rwd setup imo. 

Honda K series are great motors with decent power potiental but quite tall and all the accessories add up quickly 

So the intermettent speedo signal to the ecu finally became more permanent. Tested everything and found the adaptor harness had a shit connection. 

Wanged a wire across and taped it as a test and it has worked for a week now. 

When I have more energy and time I'll source some ecu plugs and repin/replace the connectors and put the harness in the bin 

I've been dreaming up a rear swaybar mount for the shuttle for a while.

Some high spec 2wd Facelift have a rear swaybar but they are rare as rocking horse shit and looking a factory diagrams will interfere with the diff and driveshaft 

The orthia subframe looks pretty close/almost identical to the shuttle one so I'll start on that and see how it goes 

The crv has(had) a rear swaybar with mounts welded onto the subframe from factory. 

He crv subframes do bolt into orthias but makes them crv height. 

I've got a couple of end links from a civic and one from the crv. Current imaginings are dummy them up and attempt to replicate the crv brackets and weld something onto the subframe 

Had a grand plan of replacing the lower control arm bushes today. 

I ordered a kits while ago. I really rate the energy suspension stuff, got a lot of their bushes on the shuttle 

Noticed a split tiretod end boot and wrong nut while I was in there 

Ran out of fucks pretty quickly (and need the car back together to use for work) so just ended up replacing the main rear bushing 

Managed to cross thread on the the bolts fighting the arm back in so shot to pick a part to grab one. 

Got lucky and there was a civic with the bolt and a near new upper control arm so I grabbed that. (easier than replacing the bushes and ball joint boot) 

All back together with fresh split pins and a new tierod boot 

Also was a barry and gave the inner guards a jizzing of underseal 

Dynatron alarms have a transponder option in the key fob, mongoose also make one. 

https://www.mongoose.co.nz/m15-3-star

Or the option @Raizer suggested, which is also what I have in my daily 

http://www.caralarm.co.nz/cyclops-dynatron-alarms/Dyatron-alarm-D7600/

The most important part of alarms is getting a good installer who actually gives a fuck. 

When I was on the tools my record for removing a "5 star mongoose" was 10 mins as it was all sitting in the kick panel and super easy to access