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chris r

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Everything posted by chris r

  1. That's what nearly 40 years of electronics evolution looks like. That small purple board replaces all of those through hole components and had the same if not more functionality
  2. I figured since I was paying freight I'd order the solenoid driver board and usb converter board at the same time. I had my eye on a pre made board but for the same price I had 5 of each board and enough components to make 3 solenoid drivers. I've spent hours trawling old forum posts finding information and cross referencing stuff. Probably took the best part of 8 hours to trawl through old threads etc Bag of bits Visited my mate who has patience and experience with smd stuff Talked some shit while he applied the paste and I passed the components. We made up a couple of solenoid drivers and one converter. I missed two components but can order them And in the oven And out of the oven Iittle bit of re work needed then we can test it and I can spend a few more hours (days) looking for the software and flashing the micro. We both ran out of energy for the year so more progress will happen in the new year and once I order the missing components
  3. Cleaned the switch pads Carefully cleaned the plastic isolator and installed the new pcb And back in the keyboard I'll give the key caps a clean before final assembly
  4. Had a exciting courier package today Carefully disassembled the keyboard Next to the new one
  5. Finally remembered to pick up the rocker cover for the shuttle motor. Had a couple of -10 fittings welded on for the catch can. It's the later model with factory coil on plug so a nice cheap easy upgrade. Still keep the sensors in the dizzy but delete the coil and ignter which keeps things simple. The tuner 3d printed a cover to replace the old cap. I've got the factory plastic for the coil wiring so it should look nice and clean
  6. Gasket didn't line up and it started leaking again so I got annoyed and sealed it up for good. Just welded the back side as that's what kept leaking. I can still reach the front with the mig if it decides to leak out the front
  7. Gave it a quick squirt on a on ramp the other day and it really needs a tune, feels a bit flat and vtec now is very noticeable on changeover so there's power to be had midrange. Had a couple of issues with the flange in the 2-1 section of the header. I had ordered a close enough gasket and butchered it to suit but it blew out, tried maniseal and it lasted a bit longer. Had a helpful person at repco who let me have nosey through a book and found a gasket that should fit. The gasket was on clearance for $1 so hopefully it works. If it doesn't I'll be a rough cunt and just weld it and make it a one piece header I'm suspecting the exhaust needs another hanger as there is a bit of weight off the back of the headers and they are moving or flexing even with the rough and ready bracket I made up. Will see what I can can figure out on my next days off
  8. Night shift got cancelled after a few hours waiting on site. I'd just had a red bull so figured I'd make the most of being awake. Was lazy and hoped I could get away without pulling the lower covers off. Couple of ties to hold the belt in place on exhaust cam Cam caps off and b16 intake cam + gear in place Caps on and everything torqued up. Found my feeler gauges so checked and set the lash. Half of the exhaust valves were too tight so I must have mixed some valves up when I put the head together. The b16 exhaust cam had some surface rust from sitting so I left the b18 exhaust cam in. A bunch of forum posts suggest the exhaust cam is the same so I'm not too worried. The tuner said no need to a adjustable gear on the exhaust side as he's only seen gains on adjusting the intake cam Oh and becuse I've taken so long to finally install the cams the dyno is most likely booked out until next year
  9. Bum dyno says it feels better/has more power but it's more likely the fact I've emptied all my tools /sub out of the back. Still need to swap the cams then the dyno will reveal all
  10. I saw some witness marks where the diff and uj were hitting the pipe so gave it a bit more clearance Old vs new. Bigger primary tubes which are actually port matched along with a better design should make some improvements
  11. Got the new headers all sorted today Test fitted after it was welded off the car, it needed a bit more grinding but it clears the sump just Trimmed back the collector and tweaked a bit of tube to suit. Pillaged the flanges and flexi off the old setup Test fitted everything. Tacked it then welded off the car Marked and drilled for the 02 bung The holesaw was missing a few teeth to start with but really didn't like the hard weld. Ended up having to send and completely finish it off to get all the way through Just clears everything, it'll only have a wideband in for the tune then the bung will go back in I got sick of taking off and refitting the headers so cheated a bit with the brace and went underneath Drilled and tapped a bit of steel and found a random bracket which fitted. It bolts up to one of the threaded holes in the gearbox where the flywheel cover goes. Couple of tacks and it should be supported enough
  12. I'd grabbed a tank for the shuttle from pick a part as the one in it has gone rusty from sitting. After the bullshit I went through on the crx I figured it's easier just to replace the tank Pick a part stabbed it right by the factory drain hole which is annoying. Grabbed a bit of stainless from the bin on site and cut a hole in it. Cleaned the tank Lots of careful tacks later And a date with the grinder later Can't see any holes so fingers crossed it doesn't leak
  13. Did some more digging and learning and now have ordered the PCB. I found the files for the converter and solenoid driver so I ordered them at the same time. The minimum order quantity was 5 so I've got spares if I mess up the SMD work. I'll need to order a bunch of components but have some time until the PCB arrives as I ordered it on snail mail
  14. Tigged it up, I'm fairly rusty with a tig but hopefully it'll hold. Didn't end up taking much length out of the pipe in the end, only about 15 mm where the old weld was. I'll steal the flexi and flange off the other headers when it's time to fit everything. Will have to try figure out a support bracket as well
  15. Part number says it came from a ibm 3277 I opened the board up and was pleasantly surprised. I was expecting it to be semi fucked but it's pretty good inside Dust cover thing was there but brittle and came apart when I touched it I had hoped it had the circuit board that would let me just order and plug in the USB converter. I've found this old thread where someone designed a replacement pcb. Will need to figure out who/where to order it form https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?t=16867
  16. Ended up cutting the weld and at the flange Couple of cuts and ugly tacks It's super close but clears stuff
  17. Before I ordered the other key caps I thiyght I'd have a look on trademe and see if there were any model M. There weren't but was a listing for a "antique keyboard" Chucked some bids on and in had a delivery when I woke up this afternoon
  18. As expected they hit the transfer case Current plan is to cut along the existing repair /weld line and shorten the secondary section then do a couple of bends around the transfer case.
  19. Headers arrived, looks like they have been on a low car and repaired. Should flow a bunch better than what I have on the car now, wont be easily able to tell power increase from the headers alone as I'll be doing cams as well before it goes back to the dyno First pics are from the auction Reapir looks good enough, I'll most likely need to modify that section to clear the transfer case anyway so not too worried My best guess is they are Fujitsubo super ex headers
  20. Right so many hours later I've found the file/instructions and figured out how to remap the keys on the other converter so that two of them working and USB converted now This one is running the original control/encoder board with a teensy module attached to it - Can kinda see the teensy module above it there Ended up jumping between 4 different programes to sort out the mapping Had to figure out what key was actually being pressed then cross-reference it to the table of key tags/labels. The firmware I flashed into the teensy is called soarers converter and once everything is figured out you just need to create a text file with the remapping then enter that file into a compiler/flash tool Then everything will work on the num pad. I've mapped the tab button as a backspace and the old scroll lock button as the windows button for now
  21. Neither did I hah. I found it when I was looking for the instructions/remapping stuff for the other module https://keebd.com/products/model-h-usb-controller-upgrade-ibm-model-m?syclid=cl43vgetuops738tu4c0&utm_campaign=emailmarketing_140968493208&utm_medium=email&utm_source=shopify_email
  22. Got everything reassembled and alignment was surprisingly close. The car feels way nicer to drive now, the old rubber was way softer than I expected. I've scored some better jasma stamped headers which should flow significantly better than my rangid up 4-1. I'll have to re make some of the exhaust to suit but that's not the end of the world as I can get a bit more clearance around the diff and hopefully get rid of the rattle. I grabbed some k series fuel injectors when I was last at pick a part. They should have a much better spray pattern and atomisation compared to the older ones I have in there now. I'm curious to see if there will be any change in economy etc with them. Will find out after the re tune once I do exhaust and fit the cams
  23. Remembered I had these in my hoard and had some inspiration to dig them out I'd forgotten how dirty they were I'd forgotten/lost the link to remap the teensy so cheated a bit and ordered that board which replaces the original control board Cleaned up the housings Tried a single keyboard worth of key caps in some dish soap. Left them to soak overnight and they came up pretty good with next to zero effort The cat helped me sort and group the key caps One cleaned and usb converted model m. Only thing is the num ad scroll lock lights are swapped around. I'll see if I can figure out how to reprogram that.
  24. Ended up cheating and getting another usb module (model h board) will update my electronics thread
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